chrispb123456

Hi there In my experience you need a auto air-con specialist to check your vehicle for leaks, usually from the condenser/air drier or fractured pipes, almost a cert all your gas has escaped. Slow warm up in winter probably due to non functioning booster heater.

Hi there iirc needle lift sensor is on number 3 injector, check the wiring around injectors.

Hi again If the oil was that thick then it was either very overdue an oil change or has had the wrong oil put in, these vehicles have hydraulic tappets, the tappets will only work correctly with the right grade of oil, tappet noise will increase with vehicle age and mileage especially if it hasn't had regular servicing. A light tapping from a diesel is not uncommon and is not generally a cause for concern. Getting back to the booster heater I take it you have now disconnected it, thats fine for the summer months, but during cold weather the engine doesn't produce heat quick enough to give heat inside the car, would recommend you get it fixed before winter comes around :rolleyes:

Hi again The power supply to the lighting socket for your trailer/caravan will be connected to wiring behind the rear lights, follow the cable from the socket to see where it enters the car, this is where the problem could be. The cable needs to pass through a suitable size grommet to stop any fumes or water entering the car especially if the cable entry is near the exhaust. The face level vents are the ones you can swivel and adjust direction of airflow. Fumes could enter through the vents from the engine compartment for a number of reasons, Incorrectly fitted bulkhead extension (scuttle plate) Leaking exhaust system Condition of engine crankcase hoses Oil/fuel leaks Dirty pollen filter

thank you very much for the warm welcome gregers. can i ask what you mean by the rear hatch? where is it located? Do you have a pic? If by "rear hatch" you mean the car boot, then yes thats definately closed. Hi there Yes the rear hatch is another name for the boot/tailgate, if it's closing properly check the condition of the rubber sealing strip around the opening. Other things to look for are. Has the car got a tow hitch? fumes can get in around the lighting cable if a grommet is not fitted Can you smell fumes through the face level vents? you may be getting crankcase fumes and/or exhaust fumes entering through the vents.

Hi there Just a few points to add if your considering changing glow plug, when you say smoke/fumes were coming out of the small exhaust pipe did you hear the combustion fan operating in the unit, as they can seize and the fumes not only come out the exhaust but can back up the inlet pipe which disappears into the chassis/sill area filling these areas with fumes which can find there way into car, the glow plug is the only easy available part so just make sure fan is blowing before changing glow plug as you may need to replace the heater unit. As Mirez has said the unit will only operate below approx 10 deg although I think it's 5 deg on early models, so it's unlikely it's operating with the air temperatures were having at the moment, unless the sensor is faulty or been bridged

Hi there Yes it sounds like you have either pulled a pipe off accidentally, or the end of the pipe was split. You don't say if you have a diesel or petrol? The diesel has a vacuum pump, the petrol's get vacuum from the inlet manifold. In either case follow the large pipe from the brake servo back to the manifold or the vacuum pump paying attention to the ends of the pipes, they may look like the are fitted OK but have probably split at the end/s. ;)

Hi again A bad vacuum leak will cause the engine tick over speed to rise it will also mean the engine CO levels will be affected, rises in idle speed or unstable idling is usually vacuum leaks ie, split or perished vacuum hoses. You need to replace the servo first it's a sealed unit you cannot do any thing to it. The servo removal requires working inside the car by the pedals and under the bonnet as you will need to remove the brake master cylinder, The confident DIY mechanic should have no problem albeit a bit fiddly working in the car, the brakes will also need to be bled upon completion. PS. don't buy a secondhand servo it's not worth the hassle of taking it all out again when you have same problem again

Hi there It does sound like hydraulic failure, the clutch fluid is shared with the brake master cylinder reservoir, check to see if the level is low. If the level is low check the area around the clutch pedal/master cylinder any leak there usually ends up being soaked up by the carpet, if that seems OK look around the bottom edge of the gearbox bell housing, if there's evidence of fluid dripping there then you have a leaking slave cylinder, that will require removing gearbox as the cylinder is located around gearbox input shaft. note that the reservoir is partitioned so a leak on the clutch hydraulic system will not compromise the brakes.

Hi there And welcome to the site Sounds like classic case of knackered brake servo diapragm, but also double check vacuum pipes for leaks/splits

Hi there Have you checked fuses F34 and also check auxiliary fuse box by the battery

Hi there Mine has an O ring on the plastic T piece but my clip is black.

Hi there IIRC the transmission has the cooler mounted on the rear top of the box, with the cooler pipes connected to the engine.

Hi there Had exactly the same with my vag-com when I first installed it on my lap top, the program was so slow reacting every click of the mouse was a good 15-20 seconds before any reaction which always ended with excessive comm errors. As there's no uninstall for the program I done a total format of the hard drive, reinstalled everything now working OK

Hi there Would check the radiator for blockages first ,if system has been run with little or no antifreeze/coolant protection there will probably be corrosion/sediment passed into the radiator from the engine, get that checked first. Early water pumps had faulty impellers, not sure on the date these were modified, have you any history of the water pump and cam belt being changed? The Squeaky noise you talk about did you change the auxiliary belt and tensioner for that noise? The Alternator pulley has a clutch in it, this can either seize up or it can slip giving noise similar to a slipping belt.

Hi there and welcome to the site Can we have some vehicle details please, year, model engine and code etc :angry:

ah-ha we are back online then :angry:

Hi there Found this in the TIS manual, may be of some use. Symptom. Selector lever in position D.transmission does not engage in 4th gear (no power transfer) Action. Service 4th gear clutch and 2nd and 4th gear brake.

Hi again If you find you don't have any luck dismantling/repairing motors they are

Hi there Have you done a diagnostic check to see if there are any fault codes on the system,may help with diagnosis. In the elsawin diagram relay 98 (J 574) has a diode which could be faulty allowing currant to flow wrong way and is linked with alternator and additional heater.

Hi there and welcome If you go to the FAQ section you will find info there on the headlight leveling motors which are located in each headlight unit

Hi there You really need to remove the whole linkage complete with motor, it's much easier to work on and it's not difficult to remove. With the link rods disconnected remove circlip from spindle shaft dont loose the o ring and wavy washer, careful not to damage the thread on spindle when removing from housing. You can also change your pollen filter while it's out as it's a bugger to do with it in

Hi there Keeyth and welcome to the site. You need to check the condition of the wiring and connections from the Alternator to the battery via the auxiliary fuse box (in front of battery) the terminals on the alternator cables can suffer high resistance which results in burning and/or melting of the fuse box, which in turn will give little or no connection between battery and alternator. Your original alternator could have been damaged through this, as alternators don't like running badly connected, if the wiring/connectors are the problem you may have damaged your new alternator.

Hi there Air con outlasting the life of the car ;) dont think so, 3 or 4 years if your lucky and you would notice a degradation in the cooling well before the gas has expired, have heard some good reports from these pop in places, has this one been recommended to you? beware they may conveniently not find a leak regass your car then a week later no aircon again. Personally I prefer to have mobile specialist come to me, you can watch whats going on and he will show you if you have a leak. 15 years having a laugh ;)

You'll love the challenge :unsure: by the way welcome to the site, plenty of info in the FAQ section on your problems.