chrispb123456

Aswell as checking the temperature of the box the engine should also be idling in park after selecting all the gears.

Check your crankcase ventilation valve, it's well hidden under exhaust manifold under it's own heat shield, there is an L shaped rubber hose that splits and draws air in.

I would also wait until old screws removed as there isn't enough metal available to oversize the holes and owing to the size of the smaller screw successfully removing them without damaging the existing thread. Have attached the Eberspächer parts list for the D5WZ which is the same apart from the controller so you can decide which screws you need

Vagcom/VCDS will give more info and will connect with the temperature sensor in the box (essential for checking fluid level) Gearboxes are Japanese (Jatco) and are used in many vehicles including Jaguar and Landrover.

If at any time the engine has been run with the MAF disconnected that will produce a fault code. Any codes should be cleared then the car driven again then see if they come back. No boost at all could be a split air charge hose, damaged intercooler, sticking turbo vanes, faulty actuator or vacuum hoses disconnected and possible N75 valve.

Driveshafts/cv joints

Sounds like you have a boost issue and is going into limp mode. Lots of info on here about it, use the search box for limp mode and boost issues. Also check for fault codes this will help with diagnosis.

When headlight bulbs blow sometimes the fuse blows aswell. Dipped beam fuses Left 59 Right 60 Main Beam Left 61 Right 62

Greg iirc fuse 24 on the MK1. Fuse 12 on the MK2

Yes good points but at the end of the day it's up to the individual members to finalise their topic. Lets face it majority of users to forums grab what info they can and don't return till the next problem.

The large red cable in the multiplug to the heater is prone to corroding and breaking off, this will also cause a no response from controller when using VCDS

Set overnight, I just wedged a peice of rolled cardboard between the strip and the bonnet to keep pressure on it, mine wasn't really bent so went back easily, can only suggest straightening carefully and make sure it will fit in position before applying sealer/silicone as you could get very messy otherwise.

I used black silicone sealer on mine, the strip fits in a channel down the side of screen so is not actually stuck to the glass.

Check the fuse box by the battery for overheating (melting)

Not necessarily if you have overboost the engine will be getting to much air, you really need to check codes first!!

Apart from changing the fluid on the transmission there's not much for the average DIYer can do but get yourself a VCDS cable and software and check for any stored fault codes as that will help with diagnosis. The flashing display means a fault has been stored on the HVAC controller, this could mean anything from low aircon gas pressure to faulty flap motors or supply faults. So again checking for codes is your first step. The misting up and water leak could be a leaking heater matrix, misting up will be worse if aircon is also not working

Don't dis the gearbox straight away, these boxes rely on input from the engine ecu, if the engines going into limp mode this will also affect gear changes. Scan your car for fault codes and see what's occurring.

Price, have a ring around, realistically in a garage £300 to £600 may be more Would advise having head refaced (skimmed) also replace cam belt and idler/tensioner and of course the water pump, would also clean turbo vanes while turbo is off.

Welcome to the forum. On the home page near the top you will see (Mk1 & Mk2 specific area) immediately under that is technical section, click it, then on the right of the page click on start new topic. If you have unrelated problems start a new topic for each, that way it don't get confusing when replying to your questions. Don't start a new topic when replying or start multiple topics on the same subject, and be patient when waiting for reply.

Just for info while having VCDS out today checked the time the glow plugs remained active from a cold start, 1 minute 10 seconds with an air temperature of 2.5 deg c MK2 1.9 TDI 115ps

Oil leaking from the head gasket is not common on these engines are you sure? more likely EGR valve or intercooler pipework.

You need to physically check the water pump impeller is not slipping on the pump shaft, remove the stat again feel through the opening if the impeller is in position and fixed to the shaft. Other than that I would say head gasket, sniff test can be inconclusive at idle as the pressurisation usually occurs when engines under load

Certainly sounds like you have a boost problem, this resets by stopping and restarting the engine. To confirm over or underboost you will need to check which fault codes have been stored. Unless you got the car for nothing take it back and tell them to sort it out as it may need to turbo to be cleaned/replaced.

The pump runs continuous while the engine is running, then continues for 3 minutes once engine is switched off (applies to 115ps)

Um that means your going to have the D5Z-F model which is prone to controller failure, but do the scan first to be sure.