Jayton

Hey all, Have a read of this detailed guide: http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/394072.aspx I know it's for a MK4 Golf, but they use the same TDI PD engines as the Shalaxy's so still applies to us and well worth the read :)

OK, the noise happens without using the clutch! I let go of the throttle to slow down coming up to traffic lights, they turned green so foot back on the throttle and the noise happened! grrr. I've also been having loss of power/hiccup for less than a second when reaching around 1800-2100 rpm and stops at about 2500 max from what I can tell, the car kind of jerks and makes the same noise. So I'm now beginning to think it's a turbo problem because of the RPM speed it seems to happen at :wacko: Any advice?

The battery I got with the car was quite old! Wasn't secured either, just sitting 'loose' :wacko: It was also pretty dead, so got replaced at the end of October. Pretty sure it wasn't leaking, but always worth a check! :)

Any tips on how to check for leaks at home without a boost leak smoke kit?

I've tried the obligatory search and couldn't find anything to do with a noisy gear change on a MK2 1.9TDI Manual. It only seems to happen when the car is cold, the best way I can describe it is "Whririririir" It happens when dipping the clutch in - while the car is moving and doesn't happen when the car is stationary if you dip the clutch, so before I even start moving the gear lever. This tells me it's not the g'box, but possibly the clutch/flywheel/clutch hydraulics (these MK2's are Hydro-clutches aren't they?). I think if I do it slowly it doesn't do it/not as noticeably. Anyone had similar noises? It's quite embarrassing between that and the drop link noise (ordered 2 new drop links AGAIN, supposedly heavy duty versions?!)

I use Rainx antifog because my car does mist up badly when I've got a car full of people, it has cured my misting problems to no end! :) It's usually fine when it's just me in the car to/from work.

Thanks, I'll check the hoses on the battery side of the engine bay. It's quite odd, because it doesn't always happen and more so when the engine is cold. Got to stay in on Sunday for a delivery (Curry's deliver on a Sunday?!) so will have a look then :)

PD's defo don't like pure bio/veg - causes big problems and can ruin a PD engine! (apparently) If you can use premium fuels often, go for it. Your car will love you for it. I occasionally use premium fuels, or bung in a 1 shot Redex (although Wynns diesel treatment is considered better than Redex, it's also more expensive) You can also buy centane boosters, I think Redex do one. PS: be careful when sticking things in your tank if you have a PD. The non-PD engines/fuel pumps can cope with different fuels (veg oil, mixed oils/lubricants etc).

Ah ok! Makes sense now. Pretty good annual mileage then! I do that or more in a year!

To help resolve my boost loss, I loaded up a certain program and located the boost pipes for my engine code (AUY) and labelled the part numbers to the boost pipes, along with cost - prices may vary and most likely now cost 2.5% more ;) It's only a quick job and only the pipes & intercooler have been labelled, when I get more time I'll do the rest, but they're only bolts, washers, hose clips (use jubilee instead if you want) etc. I was quite shocked at the price of these pipes... :) and it's typical that I have the AUY engine with more expensive parts :) Hope this helps someone else! EDIT: file now attached, doh!

1st) Why are you replacing the belt so soon? 2nd) Yes, always change the waterpump with the cambelt. 3rd) Always change the pulleys/tensioners when changing the cambelt, the tensioner seizing up is usually what causes cambelt failure on these VW engines from what I've heard.

Get the glow plug power bar checked, could be that not enough power is getting through to the GP's or a dodgy connection some where in the GP powering system.

I was quoted by a garage that were advertising on the local radio station as being a cheap garage you can trust... well almost

Yeah, but I now have a hazard in doors called the wife thanks to the bill :wacko:

He changed the discs and pads on the front and apparently now there is no more pulling to the left so should pass the MOT in the morning :wacko: Dreading the bill though :blink:

She passed her retest on everything bar the brake imbalance. She's pulling heavily to the off side (I thought it was the tracking that had gone!) the mechanic spent an hour and a half oiling the front calipers, cleaning them up pushing them in and out etc and still failed. He said the cheapest option is to replace the discs and pads on the front and put her in for another retest (FOC) and if she still fails then replace the front calipers. The test isn't conclusive he said, it could be one side is over braking or the other under braking. He's going to try get the brakes changed this evening & retested today / early tomorrow. Bad times!

Actually Mirez, I'll take it. Then I have a spare if we don't end up using it, I don't want to be without my car any longer! I'll PM you for your PayPal etc :16:

Thanks Mirez, I'm waiting on the mechanic to speak the MOT station to see why they're not happy with it, could just need a new bulb. Yeah the tester does sound a bit picky, but I'd rather have the car 100% than 99%, especially when I'm carrying my 3 kids & wife :o and it's not a bad MOT concidering it's actual mileage and not the milage on the clocks :16: Guess it could be an explodey engine and new clocks to reflect the change... :16:

Cheers Mirez, if you find it let me know how much you want for it with postage etc :16:

Sorry for replying from my other account, rather confusing because I setup another account when I had problems logging in when the forum changed. Anyway got the official list online from the MOT check website (and got some nasty surprises about the vehciles past :) ) Reason(s) for refusal to issue Certificate Nearside Front Headlamp aim too low (1.8) Nearside Front Front position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.2b) Offside Front Front position lamp(s) excessively deteriorated so that it is not visible from a reasonable distance (1.1.A.2b) ****** Nearside Front rear bush Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.3) Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c) Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c) Nearside Rear front to rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c) Offside Rear front to rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (3.6.B.2c) Nearside Front Vehicle structure has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of the body mountings (6.1.3) Parking brake efficiency below requirements (3.7.A.10) Front brakes imbalanced (3.7.A.2d) Advisory Notice issued Offside Front Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.3) Child seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt got to love the last advisory :lol: So to rectify the failures (bar 1 with ****** next to it) with parts & labour it's coming to about

thanks for the quick reply, for changing the brakes all round ( I got stuck/fed up and called him in ) he charged

I knew it would fail on some stuff, and need work to get through the MOT and I think it's not as bad I thought it could have been. Not too sure on some of the parts costs, new wishbone with bushes

How'd you get on?

Do you think having run my car on a mixture of diesel & petrol for 15 miles would have cleared it? Baring in mind I was giving it beans on the dual carriage ways because it felt a bit under powered :o :angry2:

Yea, I could have, but my boss wouldn't let me have the morning off work nor for the rest of the week as we're really busy. I also thought it would have been about half that price, which is why I thought just get it in to the garage and let them sort it...