Jayton

haha oh well, I'll add them to my growing stock of bits and bobs from the car :rolleyes: Lots to fit on the weekend. Top mounts Top mount caps ARB inner bushes Rear trailing arm bushes anf ofc the alignment. I think my shafts will need doing too, they will have to wait until the end of the month or next month, depends if I want the cam belt done or the drive shafts... hmmmm decisions decisions... lol

Vagcom + laptop + cheap knock off vagcom cable = diags, loads of info on here if you have a look.

Lots of little bits for the mech to fit this weekend, hopefully this will cure my noisy front end over bumpy / uneven ground! It got a bit better with changing the track rods, but still not as it should be. Also having changed them and the calipers I seem to have 'lost' the chink chink chink noise too which was starting to annoy me but I thought it must have been something to do with the calipers as it changed when braking. Top mounts arrived this morning as I was leaving for work, I ordered the ARB inner bush x2 and rear trailing arm bush x2 last night from VeeW services in Bristol, confirmed shipment from VeeW services a few moments ago so should be with me tomorrow and just chased VW Ridgeway Oxford up as I left a message for them to call me back and never did, so got the top mount plates ordered x2 and x2 lock nuts which are apparently not part of that unit, should be in for Thursday. :)

OK, I'll not order the bump stops but will ask the mech to check them before going ahead with the work and will source them locally if needed. Ordered the top mount kits already, going to order: Rear trailing arm bush x2 http://www.vwsonline.co.uk/car_parts_bristol/vw/sharan/sharan7m9/rearaxle/7m0-501-541.html ARB inner bush x2 http://www.vwsonline.co.uk/car_parts_bristol/vw/sharan/sharan7m9/frontsusp/7m0-411-031.html Need to call VW to get the top cap as the nearest Ford Dealership is out of the way and VW is only 10mins from my work.

Alas my secret is out now :lol: Funny enough I was saying that to the wife earlier, who now thinks my idea of a Jetta/Passat/A4 and even a Golf5 is a good idea :unsure: I've not had the reverberating click/clunk for over a week now and the 'ARB' noise is gone now I've changed the track rods, or so it seemed on my 5 mile test drive. Still a bit of clattering from the N/S/F over rough terrain (read as pot holes). I'm just worried about having the top mounts & bearings changed and thinking there must be something else that should be changed up there whilst the mechanic is dropping them?

What exactly is the problem? could be as simple as the brushes need replacing (if this particular Ford alternator has one?) or bearings inside... Give us some more info, I'd take a shot at it myself if it were the brushes.

When I pulled the drop links with the wheels on the ground, the anti roll bar moved quite a bit and having looked at it again the inner bushes could do with renewing. Would it be worth while having the mechanic change the bump stops while changing the top mounts?

Not just movement, but creeky noise when pulling/pushing the springs. I've replaced pretty much everything else on the front suspension bar the shocks and springs which are fine.

Piece of P1ss to change :D dunno what all the fuss was about :) I'd rather change them than hand wash the car, probably quicker too :lol: Calipers also changed and noticed the top mounts also need doing, just ordered them and will get a mechanic to change those sod changing them with my crap tool set.

Does anyone know if mk3 Sharan front calipers would fit a mk2? I'm tempted to go for reman calipers because they're one fifth the cost of new oem! But found a set of MK3 front calipers and am wondering if they'll fit, as the chassis is still pretty much the same isn't it? have they changed much on the MK3 to make it incompatible ?

I assume when purchasing calipers from them you don't need to purchase the piston or seal kit as it should be a complete unit?

Just got in from checking mine and seems the multi plug connector has damaged wires, a job for next weekend as I needed the car half way through trying to do it today.

I'll try not too :) <_<

Check with the mechanic that it was 505.01 spec.

I had the tracking done last year so they should have been loosened then right and hopefully not too tight now? <_< I'll have a fiddle before I start undoing the lock nut and see if they're toight like a tiger or not. Knowing my luck they are as is everything on the damned car. Going to swing by Focus and get a 4lb lumpy as the biggest I've got at the mo is 16oz I think :)

No Mike, he's got some monkey's in the form of apprentices <_< Still cheaper than the other garages around here @

Track rods turned up this morning and the mobile mechanic I use isn't answering his phone, I've left messages and nothing... so screw 'em. ^_^ The other garage I use can't do them till Wednesday now... Are they hard to change? They quoted me 2 hours to change them @

Can you get some pics of the repair? I need to do this too :)

You read this guide? <_< http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/394072.aspx Hope that helps, sounds like you've not got boost leak and the vanes are OK. Do you know someone you could swap the MAF with before spending out on one and find it doesn't resolve your problem.

Turn the steering wheel from full lock to opposite full lock, if you get the chirpping at full lock then I'd suspect the alternator pulley, if not then I'd suspect the tensioner. If either are worn then it's likely the belt is worn too and worth changing.

also if you are sure you have the modules installed in your car that you are trying to scan, then it's likely that connections are broken (Aux heater electrical connectors in the unit itself for example)

Thanks for all the advice so far, I assume when jacking the car up I only need to do one side at a time when checking for play in the components? For my own reference, which may help others. Track Rods,

My nearside wishbone was replaced for the MOT, so I doubt it is that already. I can't find the engine stabilizer on EKTA or on the usual sites I use for parts <_< Anyone know roughly how much they cost?

That's brilliant, thanks Mark. hmmm when I changed the drop links, I'm sure I noticed red dust and just put it down as brake dust... I'll have a search for checking the Engine Stabilizer bar, I'll get the shafts checked next weekend (only time I will have) as per the vid by Mark. As it's only started would it be safe enough to drive it for the next week or so until I can confirm if it's the drive shaft or engine stabilizer? Seeing as George106 has had the same problem for the last 10months... ? Friggen' good thing I already decided to put

I've tried searching for this problem and the search function reveals nothing (in fact keeps telling me I'm searching using less than 3 characters or for html, img etc). The problem started this morning, and easiest way to reproduce it is to take my foot off the accelerator let the car slow down a little and then accelerate again. There is a nasty clunk that reverberates through the chassis, you can even feel the clunk :) Other ways to reproduce the problem are to drive over the speed humps in my cul de sac which are the width of the road and as high as a small child or sometimes when just driving in the Tesco car park straight line newly surfaced tarmac... I've replaced the drop links for the second time in 6 months with the expensive 'heavy duty' ones only 2 weeks ago and I still had the usual drop link noise, albeit not as bad. I'm at wits end with this bloody car!