marinabrid

Hi after my own electric; problems i got one of these ideal for very slow drain problem simply unplug each fuse and push this is and when it reads a high draw voltage you have found the circuit thats the problem so you can then fix http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Expert-12-48v-3mm-Fuse-Blade-Automotive-Tester-Act2-43060-/272002977455?hash=item3f54a40eaf:g:oIcAAOSwsB9WDS~I

sorry mis quoted there,, National windscreens who Tesco use said that Tesco won't pay for original screens, al i paid was the £75 excess

Anyone had a replacement front screen and noticed the heating defrosting doesn't seem as fast or efficient as the original ford quick clear version had new screen last April, had 1st frosts now , so went to test, seemed much slower and took much longer to clear. National windscreens said they were all made by the same companies and just put a ford logo on but because of the cost Tesco insurance wouldn't pay,

indeed can't work out why a wire in a loom that simply goes behind the dash area and seems well fixed would suddenly short wires out, can understand the door sections and tailgate as constant flexing but wires that don't move ! odd.

finally fixed,. had to go by trial and error and cut the supply to the rev lights from the relay, then worked down. a section near the front seemed to trip it so i bypassed it and no more fuse blow,. then this caused the reversing sensors to the rear to stop working, must be fed from same supply, so tapped into that wire at the module under the pass seat, isolated the feed from the relay and all working again. so 3 weeks of crap all caused by one fuse and a bit of chaffed wire. Thanks for all input , bit complex and an auto which not many have to be able to put ideas.

Had a look but too complex for me, was hoping to see maybe gearbox photos and where switches were positioned, need someone with electrical skills shorting out somewhere, if i pull relay that controls auto box and reverse lights no. 175 the fuse don't blow., so problem must be up to relay i guess

many thanks cyborg been like this 3 weeks nearly ,, good job don't need it for work

trying to check wiring to the lever lock solenoid, seems to go under the console , anyone got wiring diagrams

Hi Cant think even now where to start looking, i know you said the harness round the gearbox. its a 2.8 auto, to remove battery tray i understand some models you have to jack the car up to support the gearbox, is this the case, if it is I'm stuck as i can't do it at roadside when it says the solenoid is shorting to east does this mean then the wiring or could it be the solenoid itself, is there a way to bypass, i have unplugged it from under console but still blows fuse, checked again wiring in tailgate area , stripped it all down all perfect , checked the parking sensor box under seat, all dry, unplugged and tested,, still blew fuse., then the fault 01236 lever lock solenoid shorting popped up, hasn't appeared before, i cleared it replaced fuse, could get the fault code again though even though fuse blew again ! getting a bit frustrated now.

been at it all day, found a fault 01236 shift selector lock solenoid open or short to ground andy ideas does it mean the solenoid is faulty or the wiring ?

Hi Thanks for that, wondered if parking sensors had anything to do with it as they are engaged with reverse gear as well, looks like more poking around

to cut long story short, got ecu back no faults, found it is a fuse. no 5. supplies power to gearbox ecu. now when i put in reverse the fuse blows. have checked tailgate wiring all good, bulbs fuses tried it with no bulbs and connectors removed still blows same fuse, any ideas as now had no car for 2 weeks. at least now can drive but carry spare fuses in case i need to reverse ! anyone know where to look for the rev light switch on an auto gearbox ? and how to test it,

Hi there Seems a little known about subject with few replies ! all i could do was test the plug where it joins the ecu, there was a 12v supply at pin 22 which is at one far end and the thick brown earth at the other end. all there other pins in between didn't show, so i presume power is there. tried to get n/s headlamp out to look under the battery tray but seemed jammed, the grill seems fastened to the bumper somehow so i couldn't get that out, i don't know if there is a big mounting under the battery tray there seems a big rubber block so i didn't want to unbolt that in cash it all crashed down 1 so im stumped, i sent the ecu off to a firm call sin speed seem to have a good reputation for testing ,, suppose that will eliminate it in the end, he said it will be £50 to test or £250 if it needs repairing, in one way i hope its faulty as if not and it comes back the same i don't know where to look.

evening all 2.8 auto 54 reg Well. had no problems in 16 months then a biggy turn key, dash lights on, except strangley the footbrake one that tells you to press the brake to let you move from P to D was not lit. towed home by RAC , his scanner said gearbox module failed got home and put vagcom on, same code came up 01315 no signal communication the module is right by the battery on inner wing, so unplugged it, not a lot to see all looks shiny and clean no water ingress etc,,, found on other forum that wiring problems are common but where an dhow do you find the problem ! so now stumped. the actual gearbox module didn't put its fault in the auto box section of vagcom which i though odd,. that module won't communicate according to vagcom, it always has in the past so maybe a clue there ? i found the fault in the abs module for some reason, same code as the RAC man found so thats it, tried to find a module but can't find one with same last letter or other smaller number sequences on the label. any ideas welcome Thanks

thanks will give that a try

thanks will try but i think no nails don't stick to well to plasticy rubbery things !

Hi all anyon know the best stuff to re stick the black rubbing strip along the outside of pass door its come off a while ago but silicon and body tape don't seem to be holding it well new one is £40 !

i read somewhere on a vw site that the pressure switch only register a low or high pressure fault code not if its faulty itself. could be correct, for the wiring try the other excellent galaxy site where there is a member got wiring for everything and a mass of help also available http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/index.php

have a look here scroll down to find the a/c info there are pics of all the pipes etc http://www.partsbase.org/vw/sharan-syncro-4motion-sha-eu-1998-body/

problem solved someone in the past has cut the supply pipes in the engine bay. so was never gonna get gas to the rear in this lifetime !

i have checked the flap door motors and both are working as they should when on cold setting the inner flap is open exposing the evaporator and when i turn the heat up that flap closes off the evap. the other works as it should directing the what should be cold air up into the roof vent or when heat up directs it to the floor vent. getting a bit lost for any other reasons

yes i have a parts picture that shows it, could this be the cause of the fault ?

hi all mk2 with rear air con, the front is cold the rear is warm, no fault codes showings. the two air con pipes under the car to the rear are the same temp i know one should be freezing cold Was suggested rear expansion valve, have swopped this and regassed to correct amount for dual system, still the same temp from the roof vents Clamped off the rear water heater supply pipes but no change in the roof temp vents getting short of ideas now !! anything welcomed to get the back cold. know I'm lucky to have the front working ! ilke in my old mk1 but if its fitted i thought i will try to get it going.

what problems are you getting to make you want to change the oil ? i too have auto with 73,000 on not a lot i would hope ! after much reading on the forums sometimes a change of the oil seems to make things worse depending on whats done. some seem to think it should last over 100,000 miles others say change it at 40k a bit of an oddity these autos.

also the heating elements seem to get weaker as they get older, well mine did, i put a new one in and it was defrosted in a very short time