cyborg

Is it oil temp warning or oil pressure warning? Overheating and no heaters but not losing oil looks like a water pump problem. When you replaced the Water pump did you spin it by hand because the reason I ask is somtimes there over cast and the implelers stick to engine , hence no differance on yours being changed . A simpton of oil pump going is rattlerley valves .

:(

Hi dadstaxi have you dropped your keys at all ? you may have dammaged lost chip inside key , try a spare key see what happens

Hi there djsy, Sounds like your coil's are on way out ,oftain you can see a crack in them .Were all the plugs dry ?

:) nice go faster stripes welcome to forum

happy birthday :)

Be very careful giving that advice out mate as its simply not true, the airbag system is still very much active even with the lamp on so don't go prodding about thinking its safe and deactivated because it could hurt :rolleyes: I *think* you mean "if the clock-spring unit has gone O/C then it won't be able to fire that bag" which is a much safer line to give although even then I've seen CS units that have been diagnosed as faulty by their controllers that could still have carried enough current to fire the igniter. Also since the cause is yet to be identified that's a risky statement in itself. I'm not having a pop (boom-boom) at you btw - it's just the SRS system is more then capable of killing someone if they arn't expecting it. (There was a story recently about a German guy who's airbag went off whilst he thought it was disabled and the force put the screwdriver he was holding through his neck killing him instantly eek!) There are some exceptions where the system would be disabled entirely (Internal memory fault, input voltage outside range, more then one crash sensor faulty etc) but a zero or high resistance to the drivers igniter won't disable it - in the event of a crash it will still go through the motions and attempt to ignite that bag regardless, along with any others the system thinks are required (or are fitted) Agreed, extreme caution is to be taken when adjusting any airbag system. A definate a fo par by myslef making light of complex task....... I welcome your coments and agree "if the clock-spring unit has gone O/C then it won't be able to fire that bag".The bags themselves are very much a live device and should be treated with respect at all times even when there past there 10 year life span. On a technician note , vagcom does allow bag on /off feature within simular to the on /off feature allowing a child in front passenger seat .however that all said in the sense of real world home mechinc's who read a few webb pages and go forth should be strongly diswaded from any adjustment of airbag system so in retrospect and disclaimer to all posts left by me 'cyborg' "LEAVE AIRBAG SYSTEM ALONE treat with extreme pejudice " .

Thats right airbag fuction is completly disabled once light is on . This is because there's no resistance detected .You can disable the the offending bag which will enbale system should you have more than one bag .The light however will still stay on as a technical failure warning.

Lot of hassle to do as wires, downpipes are different can be done though I would say break the mk2 getting another ayl 24v engine for less than 600 will be hard as its popular with gti modders.

Hi Don't want to extinish hope but I have done several mk1 galaxy clock springs it highly unlikley that it's a quick reset. you diagnose fault with vagcom its most likley the spring beneath airbag .so set aside half an hour to fix the spings are

Yes the sensors get damp can corrode and fail sometimes pinpointed to a leaky coolent pipe .

To be honest you'd be better off on a VW Golf or Bora forum, the V6 engine is the VR6 used in a few VW's and those guys are far more likely to have ripped them apart :P There's also www.vr6oc.com Of course you could let the resident vr6 nut answer the question ;) The vr6 can be very ratterley after a long time battery disconnection and take time to relearn timming. white smoke There's number of things it can be but ill start with most likley , theres a pipe called a ' vr6 crack pipe ' google that there's loads of pictures of it .The coolent pipe that goes across front of motor which connect's the thermostat on right to the oil cooler then on to coolent pump its about an inch wide and 12 inch long the seal's oftain fail hot coolent lots of smoke etc. The other thing to look for is leaky fuel pipe going to injectors not that likley though. If the rattle continues then the upper cam chain tensioner is likley culprit. the haynes is useless compared to this guide you can change without removing clutch. http://www.bethandjames.com/Timing_chain_DIY.htm

Hi pottages welcome to the forum, there's quite a few things that it could be such as a failed or failing solenoid,Coreded wire to box burnt cluch plates ,wrong atf unfortunatly the list is endless hence slow forum responces . Self diagnosis is made easier with vagcom software and a lead to your laptop plugged into car .From there you can get an idea if the problems electronic. For now i would check the atf level with gear box at 40 deg and check brand and type of atf used On the earlier mk1 autobox you can reset it to factory settings which sometimes helps when your driving habits are different to prev owner you could do this manually however i've only done it on vagcom to do manualy try this borrowed from t4 web: - Turn on ignition without starting engine.Turn off ignition.Turn on ignition again without starting engine and depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there for at least ten seconds.Release the accelerator pedal and turn the key to start the engine in the regular manner.Drive away going through all four gears.

hi oops I was thinking of 01M / AG4 not AG5 for more info try here http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1474034-Automatic-Transmission-DIY\FAQ Insidently if your reading this and have mk1 or mk2 2.3 4 speed 01M / AG4 click your heals and go to kansas dorothy :blink: http://www.kansascitytdi.com/01m%20faq.htm for ultimate all you need to know autobox help

Hi ,Did your change filter and clear any sludge off magnet ?

speechless :D

I know this is bringing back a dead thread, but I've got a problem with spongy brakes, and I was wondering if it could be air in the ABS system, as all four callipers have been well bled. If I don;t have access to VAG-COM, is there a way to 'manually' bleed the ABS block? Chris soloution is the simplest and easiest. ABS block should be a rare thing to have to do. Thing's that also cause problems off the top of my head Wheel bearing failure Warped brake disc's Brake caliper seal failure Worn track rods and wishbones Tracking out Etc,, keep it simples with chris's soloution

Hi lilbob, There are few variant's the green highlighted text is fully compatable with vagcom The red highlighted text is partly compatible,however you can interrogate things like air bag autogearbox,alarm,doors dash clocks essentially every thing bar the engine itself . to interrogate the engine use ELM of course there are meny different scanners. SEAT ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9)1996/04 - / Model Engine ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 1.8 T 20V AJH 7V8, 7V9 1781 110 MPV 97.10 - ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 1.9 TDI 1Z 7V8, 7V9 1896 66 MPV 96.04 - ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 1.9 TDI AFN 7V8, 7V9 1896 81 MPV 96.08 - 00.06 ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 1.9 TDI AUY 7V8, 7V9 1896 85 MPV 00.06 - ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 1.9 TDI ASZ 7V8,7V9 1896 96 MPV 02.11 - ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 1.9 TDI 4motion AUY 7V8, 7V9 1896 85 MPV 01.02 - ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 2.0 i ADY 7V8, 7V9 1984 85 MPV 96.04 - ALHAMBRA (7V8, 7V9) 2.8 V6 AYL 7V8, 7V9 2792 150 MPV 00.06 - FORD GALAXY (WGR)1995/03 - / Model Engine GALAXY (WGR) 1.9 TDI AHU WGR 1896 66 4 MPV 95.03 - GALAXY (WGR) 1.9 TDI AFN WGR 1896 81 4 MPV 97.08 - 00.04 GALAXY (WGR) 1.9 TDI AUY WGR 1896 85 MPV 00.04 - GALAXY (WGR) 2.0 i NSE WGR 1998 85 MPV 95.11 - GALAXY (WGR) 2.3 16V Y5B WGR 2295 107 MPV 97.01 - GALAXY (WGR) 2.8 i V6 AAA WGR 2792 128 MPV 95.11 - 00.04 GALAXY (WGR) 2.8 i V6 4x4 AAA WGR 2792 128 MPV 96.04 - 00.04 GALAXY (WGR) 2.8 V6 AYL WGR 2792 150 MPV 00.04 - VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN (7M8,7M9,7M6)1995/05 - / Model Engine SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 1.8 T 20V AJH 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1781 110 MPV 97.09 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 1.9 TDI 1Z 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1896 66 MPV 95.09 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 1.9 TDI AFN 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1896 81 MPV 96.09 - 00.04 SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 1.9 TDI AUY 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1896 85 MPV 00.04 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 1.9 TDI ASZ 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1896 96 MPV 02.11 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 1.9 TDI 4motion AUY 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1896 85 MPV 00.04 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 2.0 ADY 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 1984 85 MPV 95.09 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 2.8 V6 24V AYL 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 2792 150 MPV 00.04 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 2.8 V6 24V 4motion AYL 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 2792 150 MPV 00.04 - SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 2.8 VR6 AAA 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 2792 128 MPV 95.09 - 00.04 SHARAN (7M8, 7M9, 7M6) 2.8 VR6 Syncro AAA 7M8, 7M9, 7M6 2792 128 MPV 96.11 - 00.04

For the petrol 2.0 haynes is ok for eveything but the engine .For the engine try 2.0 golf gti

AGREED I beleive ripfit are pulling your chain its beadsealer all the way probabaley cost you a tenner a wheel to have done. Funney thing is my grandad always said " cakes always taste better from a small shop than the supermarket ".Stick to local in future B)

Not sure if this is what you ment ( page 24) but probably a must have document for tdi owners B) http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/tdi-technik-eng.pdf

As Above , heater matrix & rads rarely fail on there own there's usually a problem causing the problem .so check Fans ,Temp Sensors,Themostat & Waterpump Fans Switch on aircon do fans come on ? If they don't check 40 amp fuse engine bay nearside box beside shock piller Then check resisters. To make it easy I've added a picture below On picture below theres red power lead disconnect undo that bolt then pull out the green resisters .The Green resisters can crack expose wires which rust and disconnect over time.hence giving you no power to fans.To test connect up battery and measure both connections are giving 12v its not uncommen green resister to fail. Temp sensors The main temp sensor is black,Its half way down radiator you can uplug and test by putting a paperclip across connections 1+2 and 2+3 fans should come on on both phases its a bit tight to get to easly done by removing top rad hose.The fans should come on around 86 degrees. The other three sensors are ; yellow - additional water pump, run on pump blue - sends temp to dash + ecu brown - A/C fan Themostat Check the lower rad pipe is stone cold until the temp gauge reaches the half way point, if it gets lukewarm straight away then the thermostat is stuck open or missing, if it stays cold then it is stuck shut. Themostat housing complete breakdown by vanbusta on faq44 Vanbursta's Guide Waterpump Remove Coolent cap and check if you have a trickle of water with engine running at about 3000 rev's should spurt out of top pipe.To double check Look for a trickle of coolent below the waterpump itself ,a sure sign its on way out . ------------------------------------ Incidently dash Heater matrix in and out is a 2 day Job 1 day if you've done one before...

no worries we all help, Worth doing a visual check first checking for broken wires or use your favourite scanner to show which sensor has failed , most on here use vagcom to detect faulty sensor and clear fault after repair. The sensors rust and expand oftain need drilling out not to expensive about

Hi Metalliblob, Welcome to the forum, Seems like your tracking is toe out making bumpy roads and fast corners very scary check your wishbone rubber and top of mcpherson's strut for excessive movement my guess by changing the balljoint and droplinks its knocked the traking out worse than it was my local tire shop charges

how did i miss this post, looks like lots of fun si body kit would look good, take it your going for the mk1 mondeo look http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j233/rapster01/citrine4.jpg