Andrew T

Board Statistics Most users ever online was 304 on Yesterday, 10:46 PM Just noticed that this statistic has changed, it was about 60 before. Surely a mistake?

DO NOT USE ADDITIVES - take that from someone who learnt the hard way..... I take it you're referring to Slick 50? Go on, tell us what happened.

That's me told innit?

You could have told us about it then! I've only just found it. I used to use AA petrolbusters until it shut down a couple of years ago.

I doubt the Escort plug will work because the wiring loom will use VW style plugs, but new adaptores are abou

This website offers a petrol price comparison service. Once you've registered you type in your postcode and find where your cheapest local fuel is.

I used to be a member of a Citroen Smartgroup on Yahoo which had a long running thread on this. The Xantia could be fitted with either Bosch or Lucas injection pumps, and only one of them would accept Chip fat. I can't remember which one though. I also recall that when Top Gear tried this a few years ago on an old Volvo 740 Diesel they had to add a bit of Ethanol (or summit) to the mixture.

Try swapping fuses 56 and 57 over, as FDM says they sometimes look OK but don't work. IIRC those little fuses in the top fuse box are a sod to get at and you are better using long nosed pliers than the little fuse puller that Ford provide. Are both your rear bulbs on that side out?

Maybe these fuses are only used to control the parking lights when they are switched by the indicator lever? As both bulbs are fed by a single wire to each cluster have you checked the power is getting to the cluster?

That's right, the Transit is quoted as 145PS and 210NM of Torque.

The Galaxy Brochure quotes 140PS which equals 142BHP, although I think earlier models were quoted as 145BHP. And your man is right, it is the same engine used in the LPG/CNG Transit.

I had a similar problem but only on one wheel. After removing and remounting the tyre and reseating and then replacing the valve didn't cure it Masked Marauder suggesting putting in tyre sealant (i.e puncture repair goo) which worked instantly. It's possible for alloys to go porous with age, but it seems funny that you have the problem on all four wheels and on quite a new car, a dodgy batch of wheels possibly?. For the sake of five or six quid for a can of sealant its maybe worth pumping some into each tyre and see if it makes a difference ?

Back to the drawing board then.............

Open the tailgate, top RH corner near the hinge there is a convoluted rubber boot that takes the wiring into the tailgate. I won't you call you thick on this occasion, I admire your determination to solve your own problems.

I think the reverse parking senors are triggered by the selection of reverse gear. Next time you find the sensors aren't working get someone to check if you're reversing lights are working. Meanwhile have a look at the tailgate wiring by wriggling the wiring boot off on the tailgate end and push it as far as it will go towards the body and look for any cracks or splits in wires.

Let's deal with the tail light first, do you mean the inner rear 5w is playing up leaving the outer bulb (i.e the 21/5w stop tail light bulb) on?. From where the wire plugs into the tail light cluster, the bulbs are supplied with power from a subststantial pressed metal circuit board which would be unlikely to develop problems, so if one bulb is on and the other off I'd suggest a duff inner bulb. Now you're other problem sounds a bit like I'm having at the moment. My tailgate wiring loom has chaffed where it goes into the tailgate allowing the Heated rear window to backfeed into the number plate light and reversing light circuit. Amonst many other problems I am currently having I find that when I select reverse it illumines the CC panel as yours does. If you've got a crossfeed betwwn two circuits it's going to be a sod and half to find unless it's in the tailgate wiring boot so I suggest that is where you start.

Try searching the archives for "Snake Oil" ?

Welcome Bill, sounds like you've got your hands full enough without a Galaxy to cause you grief as well!

Have a look at the handbrake actuaters on the back of the Caliper and check they are releasing properly (they should rise by about an inch) they are vulnerable to muck building up on them.

This will sound odd, but spare a minute to look at the condition of the wires going into the tailgate. It's a well known problem that the wires break up with age, but when when they do and you get two bare wires rubbing it can end up sending current to all sorts of odd places.

With the car on level ground and engine cold I would slowly top it up exactly to the Max mark on the dipstick. Then keep keep checking the level every day or so , or after every long journey and try to get an idea if the oil is being burnt at a particular time, e.g. only on long journeys? Beyond that I can't help you, I've heard of sticking piston rings, anyone know more about that?

Yes, I'd be very concerned. ours hardly uses a drop at 140K! Are you sure it was filled up to the Max at the last service? Are you sure the correct vicosity of oil was used? If was too thin it may escape past the piston rings. I presume you would have noticed a leak on the ground, but have you checked the engine side of the undertray for evidence of a heavy leak? Any grey exhaust smoke or an oily smell to the exhaust?

As the Petrol MAF is of a different type to the Diesel one (wire instead of film?) there was a suggestion that it could be sucessfully cleaned up. Worth a try before coughing up your hard earned dosh?

Your handbook will tell you the correct viscosity for your engine, as said earlier ther'es a good chance the garage put the wrong stuff in (i.e. too high a viscosity) and the hydraulic tappets are unable to pump up quickly enough.

The modified version involves the replacement of the swinging metal T-piece which retains the wheel with a nylon peg and bar arrangement. The troublesome winch part of It is still the same as far as I know.