Andrew T

For a 2.3 I reckon 34/35 at around 70 dropping to 30/31 at around 80. Head and and tail winds make a difference with the galaxies big frontal area though.

Sorry that was a typo. I did mean headrests without holes. Do I recall rightly that yours had the larger brakes though Blatters?

To add a little confusion, early Mk2s (Aug 00 to around mid '01) had a slightly different spec'; Headrests without holes in, smaller dia' brakes and crucially, a 2 point static lap strap for the middle seat.

In the absence of anyone better qualified answering I would suggest you have some sort of wastegate control problem allowing Turbo to build up excess pressure. As for the noise..........Turbo bearings gone?

Motor running noise will be the coolant run-on pump, shuts off after about 15 mins. The idea is it keeps circulating the coolant after switching off to prevent hotspots.

Hmmmm, Willie Krashitts writing style seems very similar to another prominent member of the group, don't you think SK? What you're saying makes sense to me. I must admit I didn't know that the 115/130/150 had mechanical differences beyond the Mapping, however I recall that Seat Dealers used to offer a warranted re-chipping of the old 110 up to 130BHP, (and I think the 150 Turbo Petrol up to 180BHP). Surely they wouldn't have done this if they were any question over durability? Also how often is the engine taken to the limit? a few seconds during a full throttle overtaking manoeuvre? Wouldn't there be big safety margins designed into the engine to ensure durability, that could be eaten into occasionally. Saab allows an Over Boost facility, giving about 5% extra torque for a few seconds during overtaking. If you treated your rechip in the same way would it really cause any damage?

Even on the level it's not accurate, ours will go 300miles and show half a tank remaining but after another 100 miles the low level warning light will be on.

Like others i have a mk2 with a lap-strap and I thought I'd read something (by VR6 in one of his previous incarnations?) stating that the bodyshell was modified to include the mounting a few months into MK2 production. I really would check that yours has a mounting point.

On the subject of your Mirror,

good trick here that i was told by my tutor..rub a smear of vaseline around the door seals and they wont freeze. (he has a thousand and one uses for vaseline on the car!) Good tip, I'll get smearing.

I recall -11 last March, that was after I'd managed to get in by pouring hot water into the door apertures because the doors were frozen to the seals.

If you look on the "Mytyres" website (sorry, can't hotlink it, seems to be down at the moment) it tells you in some cases which budget brands are linked to which major tyre manufacturers. e.g. Debicas are from Goodyear and Regal are from Dunlop, although who would want Dunlops sh!tty cast offs I can't imagine.

also see sig on your alloys,there is a couple of sets going on ebay Cheers for that, but replacing the Alloys is a very low priority with crimbo coming.

No Booster on a V6 though!

So what's all red on a Galaxy then? 130 or 150?

That's probably because Volkswagen had nothing to do with them.

Bear in mind that the JD Power survey is not just about reliabilty, it's about the owners perception of the product they've bought and that includes the ability of the dealers to sort out problems. Given that this site has about 5000 members, that means tens of thousands of Galaxy owners are at the mercy of the the motor trade in general and Ford dealers in particular to sort out their problems. Is it any wonder that they're p!ssed off then?

- don't think chain has a scheduled replacement time - When it breaks is as good a time as any!

Classic flat battery on a Gal. You might think a 2 year old battery shouldn't fail but a lot of us have had trouble with the OE Silver Calcium jobbies.

this US site might help with your problem.

Did you buy your last tank of fuel somewhere different to usual? could it be contaminated in someway?

Another possibility is the wiper motor sitting in a puddle of water if the scuttle drains are blocked.

From your figures, you're getting about 32MPG around town and 45 on a run. Sounds about right to me.

If you live in a rural area where you get a lot of weather and the roads never get gritted I would recommend them, not so much for snow but for frost and ice. Modern M+S tyres have a high proportion of Silica in the tread to improve grip at low temperatures, they break away more gradually when grip is lost and have an open tread pattern to avoid clogging up. When I first used them 15years ago they did wear very quickly and made the car howl like a Landrover. As my summer tyres had worn out I left the winter ones on all through this year and can say that there is no discernable difference in wear. Admittedly this is all driving on back roads, and if you did a lot of Motorway driving you may notice more of a difference in wear and noise. If you're planning to keep the car a few years the only additional cost will be an extra set of steel rims, which can often be picked up very cheaply.

I'll admit my ignorance, I had to Google this one, so for anyone else who doesn't know. "BOT - Short for robot, a program designed to search the Internet looking for information. A common use of bots is the variously named spiders, worms, and crawlers that support search engines by following links from site to site and within a site to dig out information to be indexed by the search engine". We were invaded by a plague of Bots then?