Andrew T

It's been stated on here that if a Calcium (Ca) battery (which yours should have had from new) is ever completely discharged it will never fully recover, and that's consistant with my experience. The problem is that it tests OK, but seems to self discharge over 24-48 hours to the extent that it won't start the engine. If you're trying to claim under warranty you may have a battle with the dealer.

The whirring noise is possibly the coolant run on pump, should stop about 15 minutes after the keys are removed. I had a prolonged battery discharge problem which was a duff Calcium battery. Although it tested OK it was useless if left for more than 24 Hrs. When the supplier (reluctantly) replaced it under warrenty my problems disappeared.

I've checked and mine behaves the same. The Oil pressure warning light comes on with the ignition as a check of the warning light, not of oil pressure itself.I presume it's timed to go off having done its job.

The Mark 1 was available in blue.

Official figures for 2.3 are 20.2/36.2/28 Mpg for Manual, 18.7/32.8/25.7 Mpg Auto, 0-60 12.7 / 14.1 Secs respectively. The Sharan 2.0 is only 115BHP compared to 142 in the 2.3, but post 2000 models would have 5 speed auto 'box. We had one at work and with 7 adults on board it was lethally slow. Mpg and emissions are comparable to the 2.3. Only Petrols registered agter the 23.3.2006 would be in band g, older ones remain in band F.p

My experience of Glow plug problems is that even if just one fails, the car is an absolute B*st*rd to start.

Having had some difficulty finding out how much my Road Tax had gone up to I thought I'd put this up. My understanding of the Galaxy Vehicle Excise Grouping is this; All Diesel Manual MK2 Galaxy

You almost certainly have wires that have chaffed together and the rear wiper is feeding the central locking circuit. If the heated rear window wiring is involved it can put a huge current down the tiny wires for the locking and wiper and burn your wiring loom. Rectification is then a huge job. Pull the fuses for all the tailgate electrical components until you

What can sometimes happen is that the belt gets twisted between the reel and the pivot bracket. Pull the belt out to its full extent and see if the twist appears from where the belt emerges from the slot. If you find one you need to work it up with your fingers back through the pivot.

When I had the Cam Position Sensor fail on a Vectra it put the Orange Engine fault light on, I take it yours is not on? I think maybe you need some diagnostics as your next step, a lot of back street garages now have this equipment, or possibly a fuel injection specialist may be of more help to you. I

Problems with an excessive idle speed (as much as 3500RPM) or a fluctuating or hunting idle speed may be due a sticking Idle Stability Valve (known to ford dealers as an Air Bypass Valve). Removing, cleaning and refitting takes about 15 minutes easy work, so it

10/10!

There is a product you can buy to do this job, which is a sort of Mr Muscle for intake systems, unfortunately the name escapes me, (it's in one of my early posts but I don't seem to be able to search them anymore). It costs about

[if it starts alright, and revs up alright, i.e. it's not missing on one cylinder, then it's likely to be a problems in the Idle Stability Valve or Throttle Body, possibly they are just gunged up. see recent posts in the tech' thread on thee problems.

It does sound like the throttle body is a possibility then. When I did a search on it, the symptoms people were reporting were much the same as a stuck ISV causes. It doesn't look as easy to get off though.

Seems to be the season for this problem. Did you check for a good 12v feed to the ISV?

Mine hardly has any wear on it @150K although it

Ah, that sounds better. Last year Band G went up from

Yes, read like that there does seem to be enough material there for a new episode of Finbar Saunders and his double entendres.

Sorted! Whipped it off, (8mm nuts) looked inside no obvious gunge but the valve was stuck in the closed position. Lubricated it whilst sliding it backwards and forwards, refitted it, started up doubting that what I had done had made any difference and, behold, a nice 900rpm idle.

Because we heat our home by Oil which needs checking by dipstick every couple of weeks, I'm very aware of how much energy we consume. This winter, the mildest I can recall for years (until this last week) we've used about two-thirds of the ammount of Oil we usually do. So global warming = warmer winters = lower CO2 emissions = global cooling?

Just what I needed! Many thanks. (Mental note to self; buy a TIS). I didn't manage to look until last night, using a torch and mirror in sleet and sub zero temperatures. I'd guessed that must be the component but decided that sitting in front of a roaring log fire and watching Life on Mars was a better option. I'll strip it out tonight in the certain knowledge I've got the right bit.

I almost hate to say it, but increasing the tax on fuel would be a much fairer way of implementing an environmental tax. That way we would all pay proportionally to the pollution we cause, using our cars less or driving more economically would cost us less. The present system fails to distinguish between those who do a high mileage in a low emmision group car, and those who do a low mileage in a high emission car. The formers

Some friends, who are Farmers, thought a good time to introduce this topic was when the Sheep were gathered for Tupping last Autumn. Having explained the mechanics involved in where Lambs come from and how human babies originate in the same way, the 5 year old lad watched in awe as the Tup banged its way through the flock. When it was over he asked his Mother "didn't she get tired having to drag his Dad round the field on her back"?

Thanks, Now we're cooking! but which bit is the ISV ? I assume the Throttle body is where the cable actuator mechanism is, so where is the ISV relative to this ? Cheers andrew