MrT

Apparently the warning light in the dash is disabled in the management console and can be enabled by programming with the correct code. However no-one (outside of the main dealers) seems to know what block needs coding and the correct bit setting. If anyone knows...... The cruise control is apparently also disabled by default on some of the VW vehicles and the dealers need to initialise it at the pre delivery inspection.

Thanks for the fast reply. So is that how it should look with that gap?

Has anyone any idea what this bit is on the front left hand side of my engine? It looks as if the left bit is coming away from the right bit leaving a gap marked by the two arrows. It seems tight though with some sort of plastic between the two pieces. Also there is a clean bolt hole with no bolt in it, the cleanliness makes me think something is missing. There is a chain like rattle coming from this thing and when the air-con is on, the sound changes from a rattle to a whirr. The sound is definitely from this, not nearby as can be told by putting a rod on it and listening to the other end. You have to have the bonnet open to hear it, but all rattles to me sound like future expenditure.

Nearly, Perrys in Colney Hatch, Finchley.

Has anyone got or read the new Haynes electronic diagnostic manual? It supposedly has the codes and programming listed for most cars. Whilst translating output codes is relatively simple, I want to know the input codes for changing various settings. Does it have this? For example I believe that I can get the Cruise Control light on the dash activated through the right code and you can set the central locking to have global closing by remote. (Ford have disabled this for supposed safety reasons).

My 97 Galaxy 2.8 Auto went through two sets fo front discs due to the vibration. The garage at the time said this was common on the autos as drivers held the footbrake on when stopped in traffic to stop the car pulling forward. This apparently deformed the disks. Mind you, Ford shortly took away their dealership after this. Ever tried braking without the engine running? Gave me a surprise the first time.

Do these upgrades affect the ABS and electronic stability system, especially if you only do the front?

I was having a few doubts about the power of my air con recently. Today it was in the sun for a few hours and after a few minutes of driving, the air coming in from the vents was uncomfortably cold on my hands, even though it was only 20C outside.

Is there any warning from the door open alert on your dash? Are you sure you removed the correct fuse as I blew my courtesty light fuse the other day and the fuse was not the one listed in the handbook? The fuse was one of those odd new mini spade types up the side rather than the normal spade type in the main block at the bottom? After that it could be a stuck switch, relay or cable earthing to ground. The light works through a relay and timer and earths the lights to turn them on.

The chrome grill was about

Thanks all. I just stuck it on with the sticky part ready to drill for the lower part and it is so solid, I am not going to bother drilling or fitting the lower part. If it does come off it is less than

It is the plastic chrome strip trim to the leading edge of the bonnet as on the 2004 Galaxy. The idea is to cover some nasty stone chips that I have touched up, but are still noticeable. When held in place, it does not look like an add on. The trim is a V profile which sticks with tape to the upper surface at the edge of the bonnet and has screw holes for the lower surface which would screw to the lower inside folded back edge of the bonnet. I would have thought that the new Galaxy bonnet (on the underside) either has holes with plastic inserts or uses "U" clips, like mudflap clips but "threaded" on the inside. In the attached picture the red on the lower edge is the reflection of the backing on the sticky tape on the upper inside.

What is the best way to screw items to external metal bodywork whilst preventing that area from rusting? The typical way would be to drill a pilot hole and use a self tapping screw, but I am concerned that this would create a potential future for rust. The areas I am thinking of doing this in are all external folded over edges with access to both sides similar to the wheel arch where you would attach mudflaps.

That would depend on if the brake fluid has been topped up or replaced when the pads are worn. If the level has just dropped as the pads wear then it would not overflow. On my Galaxy to top up the brake fluid I would have to remove the top of the air filter box and the sensors, so it would not happen unless really necessary.

That doesn't sound like Allen's, or at least how they used to be. From your registration number or VIN, Ford's Microcat system can identify the exact part required for your vehicle.

Don't forget to tell your insurance about your mods. Many standard or on-line insurers do not like to touch modified cars or will add an unreasonable premium. If you "forget" to tell them you are effectively uninsured. There were many who would not even touch a bog standard 2.8i Galaxy as it was too high a risk, even though I am a very low risk driver for insurance purposes.

Have you looked at the wipers? Try putting them on when you have the wind noise and see if the note changes as the wipers move across the screen.

If they are the type with the pretend Allen bolts, then they cost about

The clusters cost about

I can see by looking at the fuse box that it is meant to fold out for access to the lower layers but I cannot find the screw or clip that enables you to do this. How do I get to the relays? I want to get to the relays so I can get access to the switched reversing lights wire in C11. If there is a better place to access this wire in the dashboard area than on the relay please let me know.

There seems to be a variety of Galaxy intermittent wiper controls. I have had the on-off timed interval (Mk1), a small additional 4-pos switch on the wiper stalk (Mk2) and there are also rain-sensitive versions.

If you wanted to retro-fit one, how would you remove the old one from the windscreen without damage. It seems to be permanently fixed.

I have always thought that the V6s had a lumpy idle as felt through the drivers seat but fine when driving. This has happened on both the Mk1 & Mk2. Yesterday whilst working on the car, I turned the Air-Con off and you could hardly tell that the engine was running, smooth as silk.

The Galaxy is actually designed for a variable service interval as can be seen if you interogate the management system. The system can be overidden to fixed interval/milage servicing by setting the oil quality from long life to low quality. I wonder if it was chosen to have the setting as low quality to give fixed service intervals to give a better life for the car or for the pockets of those who perform the fixed service intervals?

Ford released a Technical Serivce Bulletin two years ago saying: "In order to provide an additional service to Ford customers and also avoid expensive repairs (e.g. compressor damage), an A/C Check and an A/C Service are being introduced. They will be implemented for all models, current and past. The A/C Check will be added to the Extended Period Maintenance, to be carried out every three years, and will include: a temperature check at the evaporator outlet tube and a visual inspection of the lines, hoses and connections. The A/C Service is a stand alone service product (it is NOT part of the Extended Period Maintenance) and may be carried out separately from or in combination with the A/C Check. The A/C Service includes: Recovery, Evacuation and Charging (including a vacuum test) the A/C system, and topping up of compressor oil as necessary."