Mirez

Nope! I've had very little trouble from both mine, just standard glow plug changes and the benefit is certainly worth that "hassle". To the problem though, since no faults are being logged I would be looking at the possibility of a faulty sender unit or wiring - either the coolent sensor or the air sensor. Use VagScope to monitor those two channels whilst you drive from cold and see what, if anything, occurs.

Unless it went into a Ford dealer to be done then it won't be OEM. Autoglass and RAC both use Pilkington and it should be stamped as that in the lower right (from inside). Stone chips are the normal cause for individual elements to fail, if you don't have any then its been caused by flexing at the joing strips during install/transport. The elements are extreamly delicate and very sensitive to flexing, its imperative the company keep it as level as possible to avoid damage and this includes the warehouse, the van and the install! On a screen the galaxy's size to prevent it flexing there should be two people to do the job properly, if its been done by a mobile fitter its likely it was only one man so that could also be your issue. I've seen OEM screens on 95 Mondeos still going fine with over 200K on the clock.

Not without knowing the year and trim level! Add it to your signature for future posts. "My Controls > Edit Signature"

Hopefully not, its fed from the brake system on the galaxy!

Why not remove the bumper bar, its pretty easy to do and how most tow-bars are fitted - you don't loose a lot of regidity in doing so.

If you have to change the tailgate glass then it'll be expensive, if its just the door glass then it shouldn't be that expensive. You might want to look at Sharans instead, AFAIK the privacy glass was an option even on the top spec models.

The glass is tinted, you'll have to swap the whole lot out for a vehicle without - is that the law for private hire cars then? There are a fair few around here that have the factory tinting fitted and are still used as PH vehicles, even a couple of merc's with tinting. The DMD issue isn't that common on the galaxy and seems to effect the 130 ones more then the 115's - by 03/53 a lot of the little things had been sorted, the aux heater is one of the biggest issues along with aircon failing.

Rusty, sounds like the aux water pump might be on the way out as thats a common cause of overheating - when the full engines just idling the main water pump isn't turning fast enough to pump the coolant around the block and aux heater fast enough.

I'm more electrically minded then mechanically but I would suggest either the slave cylinder is stuck in the extended position or the pressure plate inside the clutch housing has given up.

Why are you being picky? I'm not. :25:

Yes you were but by pure luck only, the symptoms didn't point to that and the problem with communication was indeed a power supply issue. My reply wasn't supposed to be personal, my concern was with your wording "more likely", you could have unnecessarily cost Munter (and future readers) a new glow plug and the time taken to fit it when it has absolutely nothing to do with a comms issue. Hey-ho he has to anyway now :25: Friends? B)

You are using proper retail music CD's are not PC burned CD-R's right?

Attached is the quick guide, I can't upload the ford guide as its too large for the system but the VW one is here and is identical http://vwnavi.com/files/NaviManual/Volkswagen_MFD1.pdf colour_sat_nav_user_guide.pdf

Take the nav disk out, pick radio, put the audio cd in and then pick CD - should work. I have the manual somewhere, I'll see if I can find it for you.

Ebay link Thats the audio adaptor you need, plus a standard phono cable to go with it. I have the more expensive adaptor that puts video into the nav unit as well so you have 3 screens and the audio - they are circa

Nope, not if its connected to the ford media unit as there is no link between then - you can get adaptors however so you could do it quite easily. Sounds like you have the nav unit in nav mode which is why its saying incompatible - you need to change the source to CD firsr else it will try and read it as a nav disk

I'm confused... you can't have a dvd changer surely just a player? If thats the case then its wired correctly and sounds like someones changed the factory vhs player for a dvd player - the ford multimedia unit it independant of the audio unit and the sound is only put out to the headphone sockets. The unit in the dash should play conventional cd's though just fine though.

No fuse and only one connector which is behind the lower cowel. There are only two common points which would cause everything to fail at the same time. I'm not familier with the galaxy's wheel control's but most manufactures use a resistance ladder for the switches which will need a controller to decode the inputs and this could be the fail point, the wiring diagram would suggest the controller sits with the relays in the fuse box as it numbered as "A329" That would be first on the list to check however all the wiring passes through the "clock spring", imagine an old grandfather clock's spring: http://cmpinc.us/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/clock-spring11.jpg The wiring passes into that one end and out the other end. If you has a static connector, you wouldn't be able to turn the steering wheel without the wiring snapping however by using a clock-spring unit the wires are either wound in or out as you turn the wheel. Its generally quite reliable but because its a moving part it will eventually fail and could also be the cause of your fault.

Corrent, If you look at Ivor's photo: http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t139/IvorGTO/Alhambra/Pict0008.jpg ...the controller is on the left hand side, you can see where the wiring enters the heater - there is a connector just there and then follow it up under the car and there is another one there. If the heaters been taken apart before its quite easy to not properly engage the internal connector. Also you don't need the engine running but you do need the ignition on for vagcom to connect.

Did you actually read the OP's post? :D How exactly is that more likely? If he can't connect to the heater with VagCom now then changing the glowplug isn't going to help - its a power or comms issue.

If you can't connect to it using Vag-Com then you either still have no power to it or the main controller isn't responding (I assume you know how to use vag-com, ie ignition on not off). Double check all the fuses that go to it, preferably by removing them and using a volt meter to test. If all's ok then check the heaters connected - there are two connectors down by it, one internally just inside the casing and one about a foot back up the wiring loom from the car. If they are both ok then you could measure for voltages down at those connectors to confirm supply and ground but after that it'll be a controller fault :D

Its logging a fault code which shuts the ESP off - if its just the ESP light and not the ABS light as well then the most likely suspect is the clock spring/steering wheel angle sensor and and ABS fault should be putting the ABS light on at the same time. Get the fault code read (it comes under the ABS controller).

as above.

Thats not a bad idea but I don't want to ditcth the nav unit so the changer needs to stay, although I could relocate that to under the seat I suppose. I've also contemplated fitting it into the boot panel as there is a load of room in there but waterproofing will be a challenge. The all-in-one jobby just looked like an extreamly easy way to add a little bass :D As for your fader, if its the standard head unit thats lost the fader option then normally its missing a circuit, ie it thinks it only has one set of speakers attached. Check them and you'll probably find one of the speakers isn't actually working, repair that and it should pop back up on screen.

I've always thought the gal lacks and form of bass, I'm not talking about the type of booming base you hear in a mcdonalds carpark but just normal listening sound bass! My previous Mondeo's, the Focus and now the Golf have all had ample bass from factory but even with the bass on the headunit at max the Galaxys all middle and trebble In the last galaxy I upgraded all the door speakers which, to be honest, did very little to improve the bass but did make the mid tones even more noticeable lol Last time I looked at subs they were all massive, needed an extra amp and provided way more power then I could imagine. I've now discovered you can get slimline active ones and I'm wondering how good they are, if anyone else has one and if it'll fit under one of the front seats? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=170440167152