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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Mirez

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Everything posted by Mirez

  1. and make sure its not set to windscreen mode :(
  2. You can have a phone number, although I could just do yours for you when I see you!
  3. Blimey give us time! You could have always used the search function yourself whilst you were waiting! :( Coding IR Locking post
  4. Finding the wheel will be the biggest challege and you'll also need the clockspring unit- everythings possible though!
  5. The top one looks like a generic OBD2 interface so wont work, the bottom one is a version of Vag-tacho - but a knockoff by the looks of it, the real thing is a little more then that :( and personally I wouldn't want anything even slightly dodgy being used when you are writing to EEPROMs!
  6. This is software editing, reading the EEPROM, making the changes in HEX and then uploading the modified EEPROM back. I can't take much credit for it though, its largely been done before on other VDO clusters - I'm just adapting it to suit the galaxy cluster. I don't actually know what processor/os its running on as its not really important for the work I'm doing with it. As mad as it sounds I currently have 5 dashes I'm working on, two alhambra ones and 3 galaxy ones - got them all for
  7. Boring eh? How about: or: Ok its not really my trick, but a germans - its adapted from a German forum for the Audi S4. Its taken a little working out as its not the same hex or binary bits as the S4 but the results are largely the same. Any combination of needles, scales and screen(s) when the ignition is on - normal lighting is applied when the vehicle lights are on.
  8. Well its worked well in the past but needed a deposit to ensure it comes back! For example, the last one we did was a Visteon diagnostic cable (for fords clusters) - Rented it for a 2 week period for
  9. Hi Von, can't see your other post? Anyway if they did a diagnositc and then came up with EGR and/or MAF then its likely there were one or more error codes relating to these items - did they give you a copy of the diagnostic report? If yes then post the codes, if not then do you know if they cleared them? You need to really start with a fresh code memory and then go for a drive and see whats been logged. It dosn't really sound like MAF but disconnecting it for a couple of days won't do much harm (although it'll be way down on power) and at least you'll be able to eliminate it then.
  10. Hi Anna, the dome's are the infrared receivers so you have IR locking.
  11. We did, but I'll let you off as you're gettin on a bit now :( If you use VDS Pro then you can do it from dos, but its much easier with VT. It takes about 3 minutes, I could write up a little how-to for those that are interested - something we've done on other sites is lease out the cable and software - somthing like
  12. You need to see what type of kit's been fitted, most of the galaxy one's I've seen are direct and not bypass ones so it would work fine
  13. No the nonce at the scrappy sent the wrong side and then sold the passenger one whilst it was going back to him so I need a passenger one again - pah! :(
  14. I'm not exactly a slow driver, so I've struggled to get the bluemotion anywhere near the mpg figure they quote it can do however last weekend at the pub I was challenged to drive it "respectfully" for the week and see what it actually could do... Yes thats 72.4MPG over a 462Mile period of mainly A and B roads :( - I would say its mentally draining driving like that though as the concentration required is amazing. Its now back down nearer 45 MPG but it is interesting to see how car technology has advanced and since VW do a BlueMotion Sharan now I wonder how much more economical that is then the rest?
  15. Its done by reading the EEPROM, editing a hex bit and then writing it back to the cluster - its actually reasonably simple to do but you do need another cable as the vagcom one can't do it :( Two stage unlocking is much easier and can be done with VagCom, if you frequently drive alone then its a good idea to do - when you press the unlock button on the remote only the drivers door unlocks and the rest remain locked (but deadlocking is unlocked so the doors can be opened from inside) - if you press the unlock button a second time then the remaining 3 (and tailgate) unlock. Its also called Anti-Hijack by some (incorrectly as thats another function), but the idea being that nobody can wait out of sight for you to unlock and then jump in one of the passenger doors - apparently quite common in some countries. I'll share when the list is done, there isn't much worth fiddling with though - its all largely to do with options fitted to the car which you'll either have or not anyway - bit 0 is the toggle for 2 stange unlocking though, in central electronics you'll find the current coding will end in a 1 and needs to be changed to 0 to complete. We should probably start another thread if you want to know more, back on topic - it would only have been enabled with the factory fit towbar wiring which isn't a bypass type but direct, I doubt very much it will work if you have a bypass wiring kit as it's looking at the current draw (via the lamp fail module) and since they dont draw current from the lighting circuits it won't see the extra load.
  16. Yes :( You can't do it with Vag-Com though ;) you'll need Vag-Tacho or a bag of winegums.
  17. Nope nothing to do with the soft "coding" of the dash unfortunately ;) There isn't a list that I know of, each VW is entirely different as well so you can't use the coding options of say a passat - I've worked out a fair few so far though ;)
  18. Be interesting to see exactly whats changed, the rumour of the rear sliding doors appears to be true as well but I wonder if that'll be standard or a cost option? The last generation of VW's have all had reliablility issues though so I hope they've put that behind them for now as well.
  19. Correct, and it will indeed need to be reset - disconnecting the battery won't have any effect on it. Testing the plug.... humm, you can measure the resistance using a volt meter - if its ok it'll be less then 5ohm
  20. You are of couse correct, I assumed it wasn't enabled which was a little silly! Bit 4 of the coding though, not bit 3 as that'll just turn your central locking off :huh:
  21. Doddle, open the "Central Electrics" controller and get the current coding, it'll probably be coded as 04096 and you need to add 8 to it so basically it becomes 04104, 04096 is the coding for central locking with alarm and remote control - however you should be able to add 8 to any code thats in there to enable the light.
  22. No you don't! Its an LED soldered to the PCB - its EXTREAMLY unlikely to have failed!
  23. Dry joint on the key's PCB, I had the same when I got mine - sometimes it would be fine but most times would take lots of pressing. If you are lucky (and handy with a soldering iron) then you can take the key apart and heat up the joints for the switch - else you need to replace the remote section of the key. Make sure you match the part number and frequency when you buy the replacement, you'll find both on the side of the remote section - when taking it all apart look out for the PAT's chip else its easily lost resulting in an expensive trip to Ford. You can use the existing key blade and PAT's chip and you can programme the remote yourself so it shouldn't cost more then
  24. Part 2 is stuck onto 22 - I'll be very suprised if you just need part 2 though as the bond is very strong. Where you say it didn't quite retract - there are locating stubs on part 22 that engage into holes in the bumper section and keep it aligned, if they fail to engage properly then it won't fully retract - the result is that with the tension the retainer pops off (its only held be two clips) and dissapears on the side of the road.
  25. When I swapped the interior on my old Mk2 for leather it didn't have the fittings for the cover - as gregers said the markings are all in place on the back of each panel so its a simple drill and cut job - there isn't anything hard, just time consuming. For reference I swapped the WHOLE interior (thats 7 seats, 4 door cards and three boot panels), cut the panels, fitted the kit and refit the whole lot in under 4 hours so if a main dealer (who do this type of thing daily) are quoting a whole day they either don't want the job or are taking the michael....
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