seatkid

Beware of strange old men bearing gifts..... :)

Nice pics. Have you check the inner pads for wear? Obviously the warning light comes on quite early. I would think you have a couple of thousand miles left yet.

Somewhere near the gear selector I would have thought. Ever considered trying a search?

Only if you are into collonic irrigation. :)

Read the million and one posts on limp mode, MAF, turbo boost etc etc, Basically you need to find out why your turbo boost is not up to scratch. Vacuum pipes split, come adrift, collapsed, MAF sensor, Sticking turbo vane actuator, even a dirty air filter (would you believe!) Good luck. Some people fix it straight away (me :)) , others go round in circles for several months (Scorpiorefugee :) ). A calm logical approach is the key

Latest prediction is for a early sizzling barbeque summer! So you wont need your heater for another 6 months! :)

Stick to driving forward....

Your car is a Mk1 fitted with a Tdi engine. Dual Mass Flywheels were introduced with PD engines in the MKII I think. Mr Clutch.....bad news......avoid like the plague and people who recently visited Mexico. Damaged flywheels due to excessive loss of friction material causing rivet/metal to metal contact (and a lot of noise), can be refurbished by removing them and having them skimmed on a lathe in a professional metal working workshop - but only if the flywheel remains in spec (thickness) after machining. Very rarely done nowadays - it is expensive and probably cheaper to fit a new flywheel. Grind? Definitely not! Sorry but youve been screwed.......

red herring....they all do that - its the rear light cluster test. Sounds as if you have a faulty inhibitor switch (mechanically damaged) - no amount of WD40 will fix that i'm afraid.

Dont run it around on 5 cylinders unless you want to buy a new Catalytic Convertor

Oil in a connector causing high resistance under vibration? Just a guess.....

Note that injector loom faults do not show up on VAGCOM/diagnostics.

Check the battery voltage at the terminals, both at rest (> 12.5 volts) and during "start". If it dives to < 10 volts on an attempted start, then either the battery is knacked or your starter motor is possibly jammed. If it stays above 12 volts at all times then examine all the battery connections/leads - i.e. the heavy leads inc the earth connection. If you suspect the starter motor, try a bump start. nb The 2 sec whirr when you turn the ignition on is the fuel pump priming.

2 switches in one combined unit that is......the second switch connects to the ECU and assists various management functions, e.g. cancel cruise etc. If its deemed faulty by the ECU, the coil light flashes and its likely limp mode will be adopted.

Phone your local Ford dealer parts department and ask!

Brake switch requires adjustment or renewal Read FAQ 27

There is no rear engine mount, the roll restrictor is a large bar that stops the engine gearbox rocking back and forth. Obvious when you look under the gearbox (without the engine cover) Some more information

1. Who wants to steal a 10 year old bus? :huh: 2. Existing immobiliser/steering wheel lock is more than adequate. B) 3. Bar types arent long enough to stop the wheel turning :P 4. By all accounts, any thief would have trouble starting your car anyway ;) 5. You may double the value of your car by adding such a device. :lol: 6. What happens when you lose the key? :P

Check/Change the O rings (they may be missing) in the fuel filter connections. Air may be getting in.

1. Fram Filters are crap 2. Its easy to lose the O rings on the fuel filter if you don't know what youre doing - AFAIK they dont come with the filter, you have to reuse the old ones or order them seperately.

Broken roll restrictor bolt. Common failure. The roll restrictor is attached to the underside of the gearbox and the other end to the body of the car - this end is usually where the bolt shears. Its obvious when you look. Try a search for more info and photos.

And what "control valve" is that? New one on me.......

1. Check air filter not blocked 2. Check the MAF sensor - simple test - does it drive better with it disconnected? (See FAQ 29,30) 3. Check Turbo vanes moving - not stuck (search for more info) 4. Check all the vacuum piping is connected, not split etc. (The vacuum controls the Turbo boost)