seatkid

Problem 1, Fan not working on lower speed is blown resistor pack - see FAQ Problem 2, screech on start up is alternator belt slipping - check tension, and condition of belt/belt tensioner if fitted.

Its a dark metallic blue. Its mine..... :ph34r:

Relay 30 is the fuel pump relay on a petrol engined car. There is no relay 30 on a diesel motor! White smoke is indicative of either low compression (worn piston rings), bad injection timing (due to a loose crankshaft end cambelt pulley), a knackered fuel injection pump or injectors. Possibly also crankshaft position sensor (this is usually accompanied by bleeps upon start up) IMO I would start by checking timing (via a diagnostic) as the cutting in/out suggests that your crankshaft cambelt pulley may be loose (sheared key IIRC)

The PD injection pressure is driven from the camshaft, so your injectors were probable struggling to do their job properly. You might find that if you disconnect your battery to reset the ECU (check you have the radio code first), the timing may change - its possible the 4deg is as a result of "training".

I resisted flaming you, but you obviously have little idea how multinationals work nowadays. AFAIK the only Ford designed parts on a Shalaxy, are the 5 speed manual gearbox that was fitted to Mk1 models and of course the 2.0/2.3 litre Ford lumps on the Galaxy models. Many other bits are sourced locally to the Autoeuropa factory, you'll even find the Ford gearbox has AE (Autoeuropa) cast into the bell housing. All car manufacturers source things locally to their manufacturing plant (e.g. tyres), for cost, logistic and political reasons (local agreements for factory subsidies etc.). Braking system components, electrical/electronic items are sourced from component suppliers like Bosch etc who supply all motor manufacturers. Likewise external suppliers supply everything from seats, trim, carpet, springs, shockers,bearings to door hinges. Car manufacturers stopped making everything themselves sometime last century. Perhaps you think Delphi are a superior supplier of parts to Bosch? I don't see many Ford Cortinas still driving around....... One of the worst major components for reliabilty is the automatic box which is designed and manufactured by Jatco, a japanese company, the same box is fitted to JAGUAR X-TYPE and FORD EUROPE MONDEO.

The ECU adjusts injection timing electronically. Basic cambelt timing is important in that it dictates the range that the ECU can adjust to and the mechanical timing of valve operation which is fixed.

Check the intercooler for a leak (a small narrow radiator running along the front bottom, under the main water/ac rads), it may have a hole (stone damage) or more likely the boost air pipes have popped off, check all the boost pipework (the large diameter stuff), start at the turbo work your way round, look particularly at the joints. Another possibility is a blocked air filter, making the turbo work harder than normal.

Flashing unit means a fault somewhere, usually gas lo/hi pressure but could also be sensor fault/flap actuator fault/others....

If the PATS chip is missing, all you need is a replacement PATS chip and have your ECU reprogrammed to accept the new key (dealer only IIRC). If you buy a new blank key or an old key off ebay ensure it is supplied c/w PATS chip (not to be confused with the remote chip) Consider people like this for a simpler cheaper route.

I just re-read the thread and realised you said it was running, albeit roughly, before the start-stop syndrome. In that case its probable that the immobiliser pickup coil in the ignition lock is disconnected/faulty connection (i.e. back to where you were at the very beginning) If you want to check the key, just in case some numpty opened it and the PATS chip fell out (as it often does) then this is what it looks like....

immobiliser chip missing from key.

Clocked car - report to DVLA Owner is a crook.

There is no link between cool engine and a/c - the fan issue is a red herring - you must have a water thermostat issue to add to your list.

Hi mine does the same, jerky at light throttle most noticeable when trickling along in traffic my previous 2.0 TDCi was perfect in this respect, but otherwise it's a very good car It's been back to the local ford dealer who couldn

If the a/c is turned on (and working) then the hiss could be the expansion valve (connected to the evaporator) - this is normal but tends to get louder when gas is low. If the a/c is not on then its probably a leak from the brake servo - check the brake pedal after the engine has been turned off for 20 seconds - if the first press gives a hard pedal (compared to normal engine on feel) then the vacuum has leaked through a faulty seal. You might want to fix this as it is a safety issue. *The brake pedal feels slightly spongy when there is vacuum assistance available. Normally this assistance is available for 2 or more brake actuations after the engine is switched off. The vacuum should be available for several minutes after the engine is switched (provided the brake pedal is not pushed)

It is under the radio - but only if you have the top spec 2007 radio fitted. The base 2006 radio has no external amplifier.

The Jatco box has a combined drain/level plug. If you look under the box you will see it. The drain plug screws actually into a level tube which is in the box. So when the plug is removed, only oil which is over the level of the tube will flow out. To check the level, the gearbox oil must be warmed to 35 deg C. I'm not sure if you have to check the oil with the engine running or not. You basically then top up the oil via the filler plug on top and leave the box to dribble out the excess. If you need to drain the oil, you insert a large allen key up into the drain tube and unscrew it. A complex and stupid arrangement. see here for more info and diagrams.

Due to the weight of the galaxy, it requires a reinforced or extra load tyre when running standard 195 tyres. I doubt you could get a space saver in higher enough load rating even for low speed emergency use....but I may be wrong.

Engine code (which is part of the engine number) - its likely to be a 1Z type engine (90bhp). Engine number/code can usually be found on the cambelt cover, or on your V5 document or on a large label in the compartment where the jack lives. Phone and ask, say its for 1996 Sharan 1.9tdi, then if it looks hopeful you can take a trip and look at a parts diagram at the dealer.

There is no clutch cable, its hydraulically operated. You have a clutch problem, its likely you need a new clutch. It could also possibly be the clutch master cylinder and I'm not sure about the jumping out gear thing, although failing clutches can sometimes give weird symptoms e.g. when the pressure plate actuator springs break or bend.

Why not try repairing it? Has the rust gone though the panel?

Considering the Galaxy, Alhambra and Sharan are all the same car with only trim differences I find that statement rather puzzling.

Most likely an ignition problem. Check plugs,leads and coilpack(s).