seatkid

hmm....dont know about that..... Has the system ever been drained or lost water? Could be an airlock above the heater matrix. If the car is fitted with the infamous plastic impeller pump, then the impeller becomes detached from the shaft usually causing overheating problems.

YOu have a serious problem - maybe a blocked radiator, but more likely a failed head gasket/cracked cylinder head. Pipes should never burst - the coolant cap will vent first.

Needles flick when voltage too low. Usually dead battery.

Early Tdis have the turbo boost sensor in the ECU which is located inside the car (IIRC behind dash somewhere or under the drivers seat - not sure) This is probably the pipe connecting the boost pipework (the large diameter ones to the intercooler) to the ECU - it maybe come off a joint in the pipework leading to the ecu, or the ecu itself. With it disconnected you probably find the turbo not working and the engine develops little power (struggling to get to 70 etc)

Read FAQ 59

Possibly the reason you never saw this option offered in the UK is the law regarding leaving a running vehicle unattended Check with your insurance company before fitting this mod-

Instructions - how to change a control arm JohnR reckons you dont need the puller tool

Theres a million threads about this problem on this forum..... try searching Most likely due to Vacuum leaks in the 5 miles of vacuum pipework. (OK maybe 4 miles) or sticky or worn vane actuator on the Turbo (search forum for pics on how to lubricate/free up a sticky one). or Faulty turbo control solenoid or boost pressure sensor or something else

Thats why having a fluffy dice hung from your mirror is so important! ;) Oh, Mirez...you might be interested in this vital item.

You can buy the bush seperately e.g. here -note they call the suspension arm a "control arm". You might need special tools to replace the bush though. You can see a trackrod end here (they call it a tie rod) You can get these items at GSF and many other places quite cheap. You must have your wheels retracked after changing these items. (Use someone with good quality laser tracking equipment)

I doubt it can be done. I find the tray tables quite useless. They must not be used on the move unless you want to risk decapitating your children. They cannot hold a great deal of weight or be lent on as they just collapse and fold down. They are too far forward and high for children to use for drawing etc. If anyone is sitting in the front seat and they move around, the tray will shake (Its attached to the seat back) and drinks can be spilled. My kids/ grandkids used them maybe a couple of times in 12 years.

Your description is too vague for me to be sure. Revving could be due to a faulty temperature sensor or intermittent wiring/connection to it. I would have thought any fault in the the TPS (throttle position sensor) would cause the engine speed go a default (c 1200 rpm) and the throttle no longer work until the engine is restarted so I dont think its that. The lack of power is most likely to be due to a faulty MAF sensor.

have you tried your spare key?

Whats the rpm of this revving? (Look at the dash rev counter)

No such thing as a vaxwaggon 2ltr engine with a turbo fitted to P reg Galaxy :46: Is it a diesel 1.9 Tdi or 2.0 litre petrol?

Phone around for the most competitive price (haggle or pricematch). GSF does the part considerably cheaper IIRC (

The immobiliser pickup coil (located near the ignition key) possibly has a faulty connection although that doesnt explain why it didnt work with one key but the other. Can you check whether your remote key (the one with batteries) still has the PATS chip in it? Maybe the sequence of events was Intermittent pickup coil -> not starting You changed key battery and lost PATS chip so key no good Tried other key but pickup coil was now working Intermittent pickup coil again -> not starting

I have managed to use the spare key for about two months since the orignal key stopped working, so would this still affect it starting now? Thanks for the quick reply Sorry I'm a bit unclear about what you are saying. What did the diagnostics say this time? Did you change the key battery this time or the car battery?

IIRC If you look at the plastic frame in which the filter sits you will see 2 little pips at the RH end along the edges. These engage in top/bottom grooves in the bodywork housing. Use a torch/lamp to see where the entry points for these are - you put this end at this position and then slide the unit the rest of the way to the right before pushing the LH end into the housing. Tricky I know, because its difficult to see and little room. You need to look at the bodywork housing before fitting. (I find having half an hour rest and a cup of tea helps when frustration sets in) The misfiring is possibly you accidently caught and pulled off one of the many vacuum pipes at the back of the engine bay, also check the engine air filter housing, there is a small pipe attached at the rear..... Not really a good time of the year for this kind of job.

You've probably lost the PATS chip in the key when you opened it to change the battery (it fell out). PATS = Passive Anti Theft System = immobiliser See here for more information

Probably ice warning ping. Look at the dash.

With any used car purchase from a dealer/backstreet garage/trader you have automatic rights. Use them.

Do all the dash lights go very dim when starting? 1. Check whether your alternator is charging (14.0 - 14.5 volts at battery terminals with all lights on and engine running at 1500rpm) 2. Then check if you need a new battery (> 12.2 volts at battery terminals after car has been switched off stood for at least 1hour, if not then take to a battery shop [garage/motor factors etc] and ask for a battery test, they should test it for free) 3. Could be a faulty starter motor.

HI ITS A 2.8V6 1997 In that case its the resistor pack thats burned out. Do a search for a bit more info. And no...I dont know where it is....somewhaere at the front of the engine bay. Ask a dealer parts dept. and they will show you where it is on there parts catalogue diagrams.