seatkid

Best to check wheel balance first (swap rear and front tyres if you dont want to spend money) Other possibilities are CV joints, DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) although these probably would be felt all the time or at a wide range of speeds. Is the "juddering" an engine thing or a mechanical drivetrain thing? Gear box main shaft bearing end float might be the reason for the whine.

Agree, classic turbo failure. Engine runs uncontrolled on engine oil. Engine either breaks as there is no limit on revs (conrods, pistons, valvegear), or will seize when the engine oil is exhausted. Hence if it ever happens to you, you should immediately stall the motor forcibly by holding on full brakes in gear. Probably too late now, engine probably shot.

New one to me.....

See here and here Try a search for lots more info.

Getting that deja vu feeling again. I answered your question when you posted it here. My answer is still the same - you need have its ECU software updated by your dealer and you need to post any further questions (but not the SAME question) in the MKIII specific area as your car is a FORD MKIII Galaxy. sheesh....

Posted in wrong section - yours is a "Mk III" IIRC weak low speed and stall problems are fixed by a free ECU software update issued by Ford. See your friendly dealer (if such a mythical creature actually exists.)

I think you answered your own question(s). Its either leads or coil(s) or both. Leads inevitably will be in poor condition if they are original, so start with a new set of leads. Probably you need to change at least one of the coil(s) as well as a duff lead usually leads to coil dying due to tracking.

The cooling fan comes on when the aircon is switched on. If you have climate control, then the fan comes on when AUTO is selected. (irregardless of whether your a/c actually works or not).

I seem to remember someone posting a long time ago about clutch problems that eventually was down to the actuator fork (i.e the bit between the slave cylinder and the release bearing) in the gearbox having a sheared or damaged mounting point.

Most likely its just a cable snapped or become detached (usually but not always, gearbox end) and the selectors are in the wrong position. Other possibly IIRC is a selector bolt has become detached and disappeared into the gearbox.

Could be a leaking oil seal in the turbo or worn piston rings.

Did you lose the PATS chip in your keyfob when you changed the keyfob batteries? see here for more info and a picture.

Just a polite way of saying you're wasting your time. Sounds like gearbox is totally knacked and requires a full strip down and rebuild or alternatively fit a recon box. Either way costs far more than car is worth. Consider selling car as spares on ebay.

ditto

The price of a new car. :16:

I'm inclined to think your head gasket has gone or if the car has been remapped or chipped in the past the head may have cracked (which usually only shows up when the engine is hot)

PD engines don't have a needle lift sensor - they're on older (pre 2000) Tdi engines

Disconnect the MAF sensor and see if it runs OK - it'll have little power, but shouldn't use much fuel. You should also disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes or so, so that the ECU is reset to initial factory defaults. (You will lose your radio code if you do this). Definitely not fuel pump - this has nothing to do with the metering rate - its just a low pressure lift pump to supply the injectors. Not ECU either..... Other possiblity that comes to mind is an EGR valve that is stuck open.

Most likely ignition problem. Check for healthy spark at each plug lead end - big fat and blue. Plugs and leads are first to check. As its a sharan its a VW engine and uses a distributor based ignition system. Check the distributor cap/rotor for obvious signs of tracking. If the spark is weak or missing, the hall sensor (located where the points used to be in old style distributor)is next suspect. It may be cheaper to replace the entire distibutor unit (I got one a few years back for a 94 golf for

First check the battery is not knackered and the main power connections. Particularly check the main power distribution box located in the engine bay. Look for signs of overheated (bad) crimps (i.e. melted/burnt plastic). Common problem leading to intermittent power/flat batteries.

Thx, yes there should be an O ring - Silly me I didn't check it and if there was a replacement O ring in the box the filter came in, then its now somewhere at the local dump. I filled up today and everything looks AOK regarding consumption. As there is no air drawn in or leakage detectable I'm not going to strip it to check and risk more trouble. Touch wood the old girl doesn't let me down next couple of weeks....

Changed the fuel filter the other day after the plastic drain tap dropped off :o and left me stranded. :angry2: I am puzzled about the T piece connection in the return to tank pipe which sits on the filter and is held in place by a large blue clip. Should there be a rubber washer or something between this plastic part and the filter to seal it? There was nothing I could see on the old filter/T piece and it seems quite a loose fit. It doesn't appear to be leaking diesel or drawing in air but the needle on the fuel gauge seems to be falling somewhat quicker than normal. I am very nervous about this as I'm going on a long long trip soon.

Make sure you fitted the correct bulb type (twin or single filament) - if it a twin filament then check you fitted it correctly - it has offset pins. Use a known good bulb (eg swap the one on the good side)

You could have done it yourself - drain the tank and fuel filter - new diesel and away!