seatkid

I think the problem is your laptop (software or setup) or the lead you are using.

It always help to read the manual! :angry:

Probably. The PD system is pretty much bombproof. Lubrication of the injector cam is external. Its a low pressure feed so the electric pump will be alright. It will have stopped as soon as the petrol came through as petrol wont compression ignite. Youll be OK and dont let any garage try and con you otherwise. Remember to drain the fuel filter!

If the infamous plastic water pump impeller was failing or the radiator was blocked then the engine would overheat badly. Is it likely the temperature sensor is faulty as well? but still showing a normal temperature? - I think not. :angry: Its not recommended to remove the pressure cap off any hot engine as the system is under pressure (due to thermal expansion of 7 litres of coolant) and you will get lots of very hot water gushing out suddenly with localised boiling in the head - dangerous! Its normal for a Tdi to have a pretty cool bottom hose as the engine is so efficient it will only get hot when the engine runs at significant load i.e. high speeds and summer temperatures. The alternator pulley has an integrated one way freewheel device to reduce vibration. If it seizes then vibration levels at the belt shoot up and you will see the tensioner shooting up and down wildly trying to maintain tension. jollyjo - you need to check for an airlock - you need to remove the hose at the top of the front heater matrix (just to the left of the wiper motor). I presume they also changed the thermostat. Yours too could be a remapped engine victim.

If it was running as rich as you said, you should change your oil as it will now be heavily contaminated with unburnt fuel.

Unfortunately this is a common symptom associated with microcracking of the cylinder head around the valves (exhaust IIRC). Its usually caused by someone remapping/chipping their engine for higher power. There are several threads on this on the forum. The water is blown out through the exhaust, and is not detectable. I fear you were sold a pup by someone who knew he had a problem. (My view is reinforced by the fact your turbo also went)

Check the underside of the fuel filter when hot/stood. If it is wet with diesel, the tap may be leaking. I had this, eventually the plastic tap broke off (!!!) and the fuel filter emptied itself and car ground to a halt. I changed the filter and those air bubbles I always had disappeared and I no longer get the odd mysterious missed beats on hard acceleration (which were due to the air)

The Tdi has 2 switches both wired to the ECU for failsafe operation. One also switches the brake lights. The ecu will trip the cruise control (if fitted) whenever the brake (or clutch) is operated. IIRC If one switch fails, then usually the coil light will start to flash. Check to see if you have any air bubbles in the clear fuel pipe feeding the injection distributor pump when the engine is hot (you will have to remove the engine cover to see this). Usually related to the fuel filter and connections. Other problems may be related to the accelerator pedal - but if that has a (brief) fault, you lose the accelerator function until you turn off and restart. Another possibility is a failing MAF sensor.

Not sure about your engine but on the 115 bhp PD engine, pics posted many moons ago show it to be an orange plastic globe the size of a tennis ball located at he front of the engine some way down. The vacuum reservoir is only on engines with variable vane turbos, IIRC.

From the operators manual - "The engine speed should be reduced if the oil temperature rises to +145 deg C" I have run for hours across Germany at 95mph in 37 deg C ambient with oil temperatures touching 130 deg C. Note that temperatures above 100 deg C is desirable from from time to time to remove any water in the oil. If you use good quality synthetic oil, oil temperatures should not be a concern. Oil temperatures are always considerably higher than cooling water temperatures. Normal oil temperatures range from 95 to 115 deg for me. (1.9tdi 90 bhp AHU)

Out of information was this at the servo end or the vacuum pump end?

The flats are on the collar at the end of the threaded bit.

Somebody is to blame for damaging the plug/sump - personally I dont see how it is possible to damage it unless you are a big gorilla - its steel and well lubricated. I would strongly suspect your "mechanic"..... Muppets.

Its 220mm longer and "considerably wider"...... Looks as if its too big to fit through a standard garage door (the old model would do it with mirrors folded) and it will certainly be too long to fit in my garage. Rules it out for me I'm afraid. Not keen on sliding doors or fold into floor seats....I expect theres no spare tyre.

Okeydokey! ^_^

Check for oil leaks - around turbo - particularly the oil feed pipe. Could be leaking onto hot exhaust and causing smoke and the residue you observe. Turbo could be faulty - internal seals Other than that - I'd say its probably f****d. Engine strip down and rebuild if you are into DIY. :(

There is a speed signal to the radio head unit called the "gala" wire used to control volume/speed. However your satnav should show speed even without this signal. Check the GPS antenna.

On my 98 model both sides are wired, just have to remove the bulb carrier and pop out the blanking plug (carefully), inset new bulb in carrier and then you can have bulbs both sides!

Faq 36 - relay 30/27

Without wanting to sound like a broken record, you should investigate Poor vacuum due to leaks in the vacuum piping (common), brake servo or weak vacuum pump Stuck/sticky turbo vane actuator (very common) EGR valve caked up/stuck open (very common) TCS - turbo control solenoid Blocked/dirty air filter/fuel filter

IIRC There is a small plastic ball at the front of the engine (Orange colour?) with a pipe going into it. This is the vacuum reservoir for the turbo control system. Check the pipe going in is not loose. If you have any vacuum leaks (in any of the pipework), the turbo control sytem cannot control boost pressure and the ecu trips into limp home mode when the boost pressure is not as anticipated.

My holiday plans were blown apart when I turned up at the airport on Thursday morning 6am and everything cancelled.....why is it always ME???? I read somewhere that 3 out of last 4 eruptions of this volcano triggered nearby Katla volcano which is much bigger. However, the danger is that the small volcano is just the beginning and that it will trigger the far more powerful volcano of Katla, which nestles beneath Myrdalsjoekull.

Whoops! Got confused......easily done when you're only 8 years old :( Yeah....the Mk1 pre 1998 model have a different wiring setup - hence no 2nd layer

You have a mkII galaxy, not a mk 1. Different setup I think.

Of course not, relay 30 is the fuel pump relay for a PETROL engine :) Try the search - IIRC the crankshaft position sensor (called a speed sensor on the Tdi) is a favourite for TDi non-starter (after immobiliser problems) - dont take my word for it - read up on it before you go ahead and change something....