seatkid

If you're talking about the plastic T piece (Mk 1 Tdi) I cant see any arrow on mine but would have thought the arrow points to the fuel tank at the back. This is the return line from the fuel pump, the T piece is a thermally controlled valve that allows some fuel back into the filter when hot. You shouldnt have bothered taking off those pipes as the T piece just lifts out and can sit to one side. Making work for yourself!

Yes and No. You can only get 50-55mpg in a well maintained Manual (not Auto) 1.9 Diesel when driving around 60mph or less with very steady right foot (or cruise control) and in good conditions (warm day,windless or favourable wind, good road, tyres pumped up hard etc etc) Pull back even 5 mph and you will see significantly better mpg. It drops like a brick above 70mph

Quantum Synta part synthetic oil is VW505.00 and is NOT suitable for a 115bhp diesel engine. Its a very cheap oil thats why he used it. The lowest grade suitable Quantum oil is Quantum Platinum is fully synthetic to VW505.01. (its only about £30 for 5litre) Being synthetic or SAE ratings are irrelavant as its the very special VW requirement (505.01 or better e.g. 507.00) thats important.(an oil with high shear force capability specifically to protect the poorly executed camshaft) There is a small possibility that the damage has already been done as incorrect spec oil can allow metal to metal contact on the camshaft and wear once it begins, usually cant be stopped as the hardened surface is compromised. Obviously another mechanic that is clueless. Get it changed - quick. Quantum lubricants guide

Without any description of your car (Year, engine etc) its impossible to give much advice. Relay 30 is on a petrol engined car and is the fuel pump relay. If it wont turn over, thats usually a starter motor, battery, heavy wiring problem or ignition switch/wiring. I'm intrigued by this "service light" business...never heard or seen a "service light"...please elaborate.

95% certain your problem is drop link(s)..read FAQ no.2

:) This thread sounds depressingly again as if its another owner in need of a new battery. Winter is a common time for batteries to start dying.

The Red light comes on when you turn the ignition for a few seconds or until the car starts - its a simple lamp check and so is a red herring. Why dont you just get a new battery?? Its starts when you tow start it and it starts when you jump start off another battery. Isnt that clue(s) enough? :) Dont get sidetracked by the electric windows etc, they are a different issue and probably due to the old broken wires in the rubber gaitor to the door problem (see faq) And yes, you can tow start a diesel. The only one you cant and shouldnt tow start is an automatic gearbox variant.

Check ford quoted for just the tie rod end and not the full tie rod. I think most pattern ones from a reputable supplier e.g. not ebay! would be almost as good as original. Checkout www.vwspares.co.uk (see under VW sharan) and eurocarparts as well. GSF are usually good and will supply OE parts if you ask for them. You can also phone up SEAT and VW dealers. Last one I got from SEAT dealer was about £23 IIRC (a few years ago)

Up to 2000, diesel engines available on the Shalaxy were either 90 or 110 bhp Tdi, rotary pump variants. 2000 onward all were PD engines including the 90bhp variant. There are no dump valves.

Sounds like you simply need a new battery.

The early 90bhp Tdi engine uses a turbo with a vacuum controlled wastegate. All Pds and later models IIRC use variable vane turbos. The boost is controlled by varying the angle of the exhaust vanes.

Make your mind up man! :unsure: Get him to change the drop links first - they may be the cause.

Words fail me....

:25: .....I see a bearing.....it is dry....and is crying out for the lubrication...... Sorry the only way to diagnose strange noise is to get up close - use a stick or a stethoscope to try and isolate it. It could be cambelt roller or tensioner. It could even be camshaft gear or secondary fuel pump. It might be a vacuum leak or an EGR valve whistle. Many other possibilities I'm sure. "no one ever posts a solution or the cause" Maybe I'm getting old but of late there have been a few posters posting the same tirade... if only they search though the tens of thousands of posts on this forum they will see most things have been covered in full many times over. If not - you've got something thats unique! By all means threaten us with a Zafira :unsure: Its been done before eh gregers?? :lol:

See here

Another lazy poster!! Search and you will find everything. HERE

Isnt oil in the intercooler a sign of impending turbo failure? Oil leaking from the turbo seals, which if it get bad enough causes the dreaded runaway engine syndrome? Keep an eye on oil consumption, and if the engine does take off - be prepared - its virtually unstoppable. Look it up.

Probably leaking there. Water will run along hot pipe/body only when under load/moving so no leak visible as it evaporates easily. Check clips/pipes to run on pump tight - look for telltale signs - white deposits around clips or on pump body

My guess is cylinder head cracked around exhaust ports. Remap or tuning box victim?

Could be airbox not seated properly (open it up - remove airfilter and pull out lower section - you will see the grommets its supposed to fit in. Lots of flimsy plastic in and around the engine bay. I find the various plastic trim fitted in the lower bumper area (e.g. foglights) all seem to be a loose fit and prone to rattling. Requires someone to prod around with engine running and held by someone else at the offending revs. Fix by refitting properly or using combination of sticky back foam tape or duct tape.

First up the interior heater takes forever to heat up and the rear heater over the passenger door does'nt seem to work! Having searched the forums ive seen people mention a jet engine sort of sound that i dont have? Look up Aux or Booster Heater in the tech FAQ section for full information Ive an intermittent idle problem, engine ticks over and idles as it should, then for no reason it revs and idles about 3-400 rpm higher at a standstill and while driving its very sporadic and is very annoying and can only assume its not healty on the engine! Possibly a sticking or dirty accelerator pedal sensor. According to some they can be cleaned, cost around £45 IIRC. The glow plugs need to be changed also.. to be expected..... Next up reverse lights not working (new bulbs fitted)still not working Check you fitted the right type of bulb and fitted them correctly (its possible to force bulbs in the wrong position). Then check the fuse, and look for voltage coming on at the fuse when reverse selected. If not it probably the reverse switch, if it does then its probably the wiring in the rubber gaitors to the tailgate broken/shorted. See Tech FAQ for further details about inspecting/repairing rubber gaitor wiring. Temperature gauge in dashboard cluster does not work (assume its the sender?) Might be the sensor/wiring or it could be engine isn't getting up to temperature - the gauge doesn't start to move until it gets over 50 deg C. In that case it could be a thermostat or water pump problem. Might be associated with your lack of heater problem. ABS light showing on dashboard (how do i find which one is broke?) Unplug the ABS sensor in each wheel arch and check with a multimeter. Broken sensors are usually open circuit as opposed to around 2- 5k (not quite sure - look it up) Passenger electric window does'nt do anything via the passenger door switch but works perfect with the drivers side switch Again the wiring in the rubber gaitor to the door is the likely culprit. Drivers side front door window goes down perfect but wont come back up unless you mess with the switch (could take 2 mins - 30mins) to finally close it back up even if the window is let down 2" Again check wiring in the rubber gaitor Ive a knocking sound from the front end over bumps the shocks are in decent condition (i will be replacing them though) ive checked all the arms/links no play in them could it be the rubbers on top of the shock at the strut?? 95% probability its one or both ARB drop link(s). Its difficult to check them by hand because they are under load, even a small mount of play in a joint sounds like a terrible knock. Fortunately cheap and easy to change. Front winscreen wipers are driving me nutts also, they slap the edge of the winscreen rubbers when wiping (very annoying and noisy) and when you turn them off the passenger side wiper goes down as it should when wiping but when parked it comes back up about 5-6" at an angle (see pic below) Check the passenger wiper arm is fitted correctly and the bolt on the shaft is tightened, check it by lifting the wiper arm - if it is sloppy (in the direction of wiping) remove it completely - check/clean the splines, then refit, tightening the bolt (but dont overtighten it as you may strip the thread) There are lots of threads/posts re windscreen wipers - some in the FAQ. Problems are usually associated with the linkage.

Two winter and two summer tyres are a dangerous combination I would think. Highest grip tyres (i.e winter) should always go on the back axle

Yes

Search the forum, its been covered a number of times - not easy IIRC

Check for broken/damaged wiring in the rubber gaitor to the door. See FAQ 31, FAQ 43 and FAQ 44 for more information