seatkid

02 version would have the water pump with the plastic impeller. These become detached from the shaft and spin feebly (slipping on the shaft) so very low circulation. The reason your fans dont kick in is there is not enough pumping action to get water round the radiator, the temp switch is half way down the radiator IIRC You can check the water pump by getting your finger inside and see if the impeller moves when you push it.

Normally I would be tempted to say how sad, but I honestly feel that the MK1/2 Shalaxy is just about the best MPV package ever made. All the new models I've seen keep me thinking the same "my old alhambra does it better". Of course its not perfect and there are bigger, quieter etc etc MPV's around. But none has the design balance of the Mk1/2. Good examples are indeed worth hanging on to.

Here you go again - starting a new thread on the same subject AGAIN. Is this the 5th? - i've lost count. Did you follow the advice on anything you were told previously?... No, I didnt think so. The only sure way to check a head gasket is to replace it. But even then it might be something else like the head itself(cracked or warped) - oh by the way you have 2 of them in a V6. Personally I still think its your water pump - was it really changed? By a reputable garage? If so, why didnt they test it out afterwards and check the problem was solved? I think the the easiest thing for you, fonze, is either give it to a dealer or VW specialist to sort out or to buy a new car.

Avoid left turns? :P Or check your undertray is not loose....

Is it oil temp warning or oil pressure warning? Overheating and no heaters but not losing oil looks like a water pump problem.

Step four. Remove the for sale notice stuck in the rear window!! :(

problem 1 check the roll restrictor bar under the gearbox to the subframe. Its common for the high tension bolt to shear. Lots of posts and pictures on the forum. Problem 2 - possibly timing is out - your recent cambelt change incorreclty done and thats why the white smoke and sluggish performance.

Calm down Amorak....hopefully Fonze's got the message that posting multiple threads on the same topic is not good "etiquette" Fonze, its not clear what the sequence of events have been from your extremely brief one liners but I suspect what has happened is this, correct me if I'm wrong - you had an overheating problem and water loss so changed the water pump. I presume this fixed the overheating but now don't have a functioning heater and also your oil pressure warning light is on (constantly?) The non working heater could be simply an air lock. The heater hoses go into the top of the heater. They are located in the engine bay under the plastic scuttle panel that runs under the front windscreen. If you remove the panel (3 x 10mm bolts) you should be able to disconnect one the hoses to release the air. As for the oil pressure light - if its constantly on - check the connection to the oil pressure switch has not been disconnected possibly when you changed the water pump. Stick to this thread please and much more detail is required if you want to get any real advice.

IIRC there is an electrically operated flap that closes off the intake manifold to stop the engine. You probably have a connector issue as you get another (boost regulator) fault too and its probably the same connector. The connector probably just needs a look at, pulling apart possibly cleaning and reconnecting. Dont know which connector though as I dont have a Mk2.

PATS chip missing, check its not dropped out of key.

It has been known for the fuse box connections to the relay base to become loose (i.e. the wires that are pushed on spades behind the fuse box) , but a faulty relay 30 (fuel pump relay) is by far the most common fault.

Disconnect battery for 30 seconds (you will lose radio code mind) to reset ECU. Then I would check spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter in that order You might still have a faulty coil pak, check the ignition leads have not been put on the wrong plugs.

Alway best to check radiator cap first. Double check they did actually change the water pump (maybe ask to see the old one) Next time it overheats - before you switch off the engine check if the booster heater is operating - maybe its turned on and not switching off due to an electrical fault. PD heads can develop microcracking - usually around the exhaust valve area, these small cracks have the characteristic that they only open up when hot so dont show up with pressure testing. Usually caused by remapping or tuning boxes running too much power. Can only be checked by removing the head. Could also be blockage in cooling circuit, a pipe breaking up internally or incorrect mixture of coolants though this would give a consistent overheating sysmptom.

Usually its a dry joint inside the relay where wire joins to the connector so if youre handy with a soldering iron they are usually fixable.

Common reasons for premature coil failure are either faulty plug leads (with open circuit cores), worn plugs with extra large gaps or distributor caps/rotors that have worn contacts (i.e. extra large gaps) or a combination of all three. This means the coil sparking voltage is far larger than is normal as it has to jump all these gaps. The higher voltage stresses the insulation in the coil and it eventually breaks down.

Its actually the crimp on the heavy wire that fails. You need to change the wire or somehow fix the crimp - some people have put on a new crimp or soldered the existing crimp - after removing and cleaning the old crimp and cutting the wire back to fresh copper. A new fusebox is also required as the connection is burnt and now oxidised and high resistance.

If you have manual A/C (dials) then the recirc control is vacuum operated, check the piping behind the dials.

See what I mean Gregers? Questions, questions...... :lol:

Just don't have the energy to tell the poor sod that his mpg is crap and he really should be averaging 55mpg like me when in a hurry, 65mpg if a nice sunny summers drive. He'll only start asking annoying whats wrong with his car questions. (Answer: its the owner thats the problem, not the car)

You put the bulb in wrong or the wrong kind of bulb was fitted. The bulb should have been a twin filament bulb 5W/21W with offset pins. What has happened is your bulb is shorting the parking and braking light circuits together. Remove the bulb you changed and it should be OK.

Check the wiring in the rubber door gaitor for breaks or insulation peeling causing shorts. Plenty of info and pics in the Technical FAQ

with a calculator :D 1.40 / 10 * 65 * 4.545 My original remark was tongue in cheek (for the slow among us :D ) If you were nipping around town - your mpg is OK If you were pushing 80mph down the motorway - your mpg is OK If you were towing a caravan up hill - your mpg is OK If you were doing 50mph on a Sunday afternnon drive in the country - your mprg is not brilliant Air bubbles in the fuel pipe dont affect consumption - its normal to se a few small ones - they are often drawn in around the T piece on the fuel filter due to poorly sealing O ring. Easiest ways to improve the mpg is to pump your tyres up hard and drive a bit gentler.

Decision made - son not risking Citroen - sticking with a boring Skoda Octavia with a 1.2tsi petrol engine - hopefully the relatively new engine will be as reliable as Octavias generally tend to be.

Sounds like fuel starvation. Have you tried a new fuel filter?