seatkid

Check Relays 30 and 167 first, the fuel pump relay, which is a very common fault. Its in the FAQs i.e. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8810-relay-30-replacement/&do=findComment&comment=68423 Also check fuse 14, I think, which is the fuel pump fuse. Could also be immobiliser problem - use the spare key.

Yeah, number 3.....isn't that what said? :blush:

The usual problem with the needle lift sensor is the wiring to it. Follow the wire from the sensor which is part of injector no.1. Check the connectors it goes to, the wire is often broken at this point, sometimes the break is inside the wire so intermittent - check for continuity of the wiring.

This is a common fault on both Mk1 and Mk2. On the Mk1 the fault will clear itself as soon as the brake switch is working correctly - no need for VCDS - although if you had it you would see it report "Brake Switch: Implausable signal" i.e. the 2 switches contradict each other..

95% certain you have a faulty brake switch. Its a dual switch and if both dont agree the ECU goes into limp mode and flashes the glowplug indicator which indicates "houston, we have a problem" http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8351-fitting-a-new-brake-light-switch/&do=findComment&comment=63453 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/4538-the-good-old-brake-light-switch/?hl=%2Bchanging+%2Bbrake+%2Bswitch

First check he hasnt attempted to hot wire the car - i.e. ripped out some wires under the dash or in the engine bay. Immobiliser issue? Has your key been open at anytime, e.g. to change the keyfob batteries? The PATS chip may fall out - Do you have another key? see: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24611-keyfob-not-working/?hl=%2Bpats+%2Bchip&do=findComment&comment=174247 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/24657-mk1-diesel-wont-start/?hl=%2Bpats+%2Bchip&do=findComment&comment=174532 Pump issues: Check fuse and relay

A bit late but for anyone else about to attempt how about http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/Bit+Holders/Flexi+Bit+Holder+150mm/d80/sd2586/p18155 plus a suitable 10mm socket and allen key/driver. Or a 10mm box spanner.

Before looking at the cracked head or head gasket leak possibility, check all the possiblilites. You started with with the expansion cap then after a run, while still hot: 1. check radiator end tanks where the connect to the matrix, they can corrode here and leak under pressure, but dry out very quickly - tell talesigns are whiteish deposits and corrosion 2. Check radiator for stone damage - might be a pinprick hole - again the water evaporates as soon as it leaves. 3. Check all water piping particularly at joints or where other items are in close contact. IIRC one member had a worn through water pipe near some rubbing a/c pipework. Pipework goes all the way back to the rear heater! 4. Check water pump, look for drips underneath and again telltale white deposits. 5. Check for damp/water at heater air outlets - could be a failed heater matrix. If you unscrew the cap when the engine is hot?- this is a pretty dangerous thing to do! - for one the system is under pressure and could be over boiling point in some parts of the engine (head) - it can lead to massive expulsion of near boiling water and you spending the next few days in hospital having a skin graft. Checking when luke warm, yes it hisses as you release the pressure.

First check the blower fuse (fusebox located under the dash, drivers side)

In addition to sealing the area you've identified (i recommend a neutral cure sealant such as http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p13716) Also check you drains are clear, run a hosepipe into the far corner(s) of the scuttle panel use a rod or long thin screw driver and push it up the small drain outlet which is located on the sill lip immediately behind the front wheels to dislodge the dried up mud, leaves and pebbles that often block them up. If you have pebbles and leaves in there (I had), then you'll probably have to remove the wheel liner to remove them sucessfully. Bad design

On my 98 Alhambra its a seperate switch next to the rear window heater switch. It came with the "winter pack" option. Remember all Ford/VW/Seat Mk1 and Mk2's are essentially identical vehicles built on the the same line with trim detail differences. Heated screens were only fitted as standard to high end models (i.e. Ghia X, Carat etc) or available as optional extra on mid range upwards. (They are expensive). When fitted, I think they also fit an larger alternator and battery too and possibly a different or additional loom. Mine came with a 120 amp alternator and a full size battery that fills the entire battery tray, even though its a 90bhp AHU engine.

I'm not sure the high level lamp is wired to the left tail light...... Most rear lamp problems are either faulty /incorrect bulbs or broken wiring in one of the two rubber gaitors to the tailgate.

Yes....you are wrong. It may be a Ford idea but it is fitted to Sharans and Alhambras - like mine!!

Likely be the MAF sensor. Unfortunately the only definite way to check is to try a new one.

IIRC your engine is suscepticle to the toothed crankshaft pulley moving relative to the crankshaft. I think its to do with the woodruff key shearing and means the timing shifts. Do a search to get further details...

This may or may not help http://www.passatworld.com/forums/68-b5-garage/342102-how-clean-your-climatronic-control-module.html It doesnt look remotely like a Mk1 cc though....

Its interesting to note that a clogged fan in the CC unit may very well stop the aux heater from firing up.... As a former firmware/software designer, 65535 (aka (short int) -1, aka 0xffff aka..... ) I immediately think "default value" or "undefined". I bought a £8 VAGCOM to fathom why my cc panel was flashing and yet the compressor/cooling was working. When this came up it was just a matter of time (and a bit of luck) before I tracked it down. I must admit I came across a German site describing the flashing LCD and showing them stripping the CC unit, finding the clogged up fan/cleaning it and so fixing the fault.... So, anyone with a 65535 memory error - DON'T change your ECU. Its simply an "unspecified error".... On the mk1 the cc unit has one one vent to the left of the LCD display...and I expect all cc units get clogged up with time (as do fans in all computers) This is really the fault of an incorrect/ambiguous description from the diagnostics software supplier (with VAGCOM its Rosstech but they probably got the info from VW)

Do you have climate control? The 65535 code is a general fault code that the ECU does not have any further details on. It is not a "memory" fault as in checksum or whatever - its a "something has reported a fault, but not with a fault code" In my case it appeared when the small fan in the cc unit that draws air in (this is a MK1 btw) - presumably to measure internal temperature - was seized (due to muck and fluff). After much poking and faffing about with a vacuum cleaner hose, etc it eventually freed up - I could hear it spin up quietly when the ignition was turned on. The 65535 error disappeared as did the flashing digits on the CC unit.

Has your key fob been open at any time? i.e. has the immobiliser chip dropped out?

All PD engines (yours is a 2003 and so a PD) are fitted with one way clutched alternators. It is almost certainly this that is seized - I bet the the garage just spun it by hand and found no one way action and assumed it was not clutched, well thats exactly what happens when the clutch seizes. With the alternator clutch out of action, you get aux belt/ tensioner jumping about at idle speeds, lots of associated noise, steering judder etc. (this is due to the PD engine having a light flywheel and DMF as standard) The solution is either a replacement alternator (make sure its the correct type with a one way pulley), or replace the pulley which can be removed from the alternator with the appropriate tools. (search the forum for one way pulley to find approx costs)

Because if you have no air leaks (and there should be none) then the pump may be pulling against a blocked filter - think of it as a tap turned off at the end of the pipe. Change the filter You could also try removing the clear fuel feed pipe from the filter and feeding clean diesel direct and she if she starts.

Check you have fuel in the tank and that iot is diesel and not petrol.....

Rear washer and wiper are not part of the MOT.

Alt-F4 to close the active window/program...... Ctrl-Alt-Del and launch the task manager, you can close programs there as well.

Dont worry about the 65535 "ecu fault" - this is a red herring - 65535 happens to be (-1) or hex code 0xffff or programmers language for "dont know" It actually means there is some fault, but the ECU cant map it to its to a standard fault as it might be caused by several things - in my case that fault came up when the little fan in the cc unit had clogged up and wasnt turning... The MAF sensor fault is either a wiring/connector fault or the MAF sensor is kaput (the output is jammed high) - try disconnecting the MAF sensor connector - the engine should start and run albeit with low power (takes ages to get up to 60-70mph) at least that will eliminate the MAF sensor as the cause of the starting problem. Check the fuel T piece that goes into the fuel filter has one (some have two) O rings fitted. These O rings can drop off or get left behind in the old filter when changing the fuel filter, and in fact should be changed whenever the filter is changed. Without them, air gets drawn into the air filter when stood, (fuel leaks back to tank) making starting difficult..