seatkid

You turn the a/c on and off by pressing the centre (temperature) rotary control. The light in the middle comes on when the a/c is on. Pressing the left hand (fan speed) rotary control selects fresh or recirculated air. The light in this comes on when recirc is selected. The single switch above the rear/front heated window switches switches on the rear passenger compartment heating (the fan is enabled) Clear? :(

No, not the same things. MAF sits after the airfilter but before the turbo and measures the mass rate of air into the engine. The T-MAP sensor sits after the turbo (and intercooler) and measures the turbo boost pressure (and air temperature going into engine). MAF is used in the calculation of amount of fuel required to be injected. MAP is used to control the turbo pressure via the pressure solenoid/waste gate.

SA is right. Its more about maximum torque and the way it's delivered. In this respect, the 115bhp may be better as its delivered in a wider band than the 130bhp. Below 1600-1700 rpm (about 50-55 mph in 6th) the 115 puts out more torque so the 130 won't be as good a plodder. Also others remark the 130 is a lot rougher at the bottom end (because of larger injectors?) Power = torque x (rotational) speed so up to 1600rpm the 115 has more power than the 130

:blink: Suspect yet another Ford dealer is a tosser. :P Engine is running so chain (even timing belt if there was one which there isnt) cant be broken - its a physical impossibilty. :P If the chain slipped a sproket - which I reckon is nigh on impossible, engine would be rough but damage to pistons etc unlikely. Maybe the tensioner has gone - is there a loud rattle? :huh: 3 cylinders out would mean engine is unlikely to run - certainly not idle. :unsure:

Although SEATs have better equipment, I agree with Iankirk, the latest Seats are much uglier internally, the "sports" look = spartan to my mind. Best interior were definitley the original 96 SEATs. The carpet was a patterned deep pile velour - not the crap fitted since 98, the seat and door material was also far plusher. The heated windscreen sparkle used to bother me but five years later I think the sparkle has gone - maybe the elements have slightly oxidised or something. Your'e obviously married to the wrong woman... <_<

some answers in http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/Forum/index.php?showtopic=1294

They remove the auxiliary belts when they change the cambelt and then refit them. Earlier Mk1 the auxiliary belts are manually tensioned. Obviously their fault....

If the discs are badly worn or scored the pads will take ages to bed in. As (my) rule of thumb I would say change discs every second pad change.

TDi

Beg to differ. Depends on gap sizes (build quality) The other place I've identified as a wind noise source is the roof rail channel where it meets the front windscreen. The rubber is sometimes not trimmed to the correct length.

When you press the brake the accelerator input to the ECU is reset. See http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/Forum/index.php?showtopic=1314#

The name "Quickclear" is neither trademarked or patented, it is just a Ford marketing thing. Regarding "Quickclear", I think my use of the word "invented" is wrong, it should really be "marketed". Heated windows of this type have probably been used in aircraft, trains etc for many years. Ford decided that it would be a good thing to have on their options list in the "safety marketing" race of the early 90's. Ford have always been in the top team for the longest list of user options since the days of the Cortina. So it comes as no surprise that a 68 Daimler has one. The reason that no-one else uses them now is probably because Ford have an exclusive arrangement with the one supplier. They are much more expensive to make than the screen printed type (rear heated windows) which would obviously not be acceptable in a front window. In really cold climates, Quickclear is a lot quicker to defrost than a rear heated window but certainly not the seconds that Ford used to claim or infer in their adverts.

It was mentioned some time ago that the hand brake can slacken when the discs cool down. Today I almost came a cropper when I parked up near Ladybower dam in the snow. The car was on slight incline and facing the reservoir just a road width away (no kerbs). I parked my usual way - 2 notches on handbrake (pretty tight) and in neutral. Went for a walk and passed by car about 20 minutes later, shortly after noticed someone frantically shouting and waving to me and doing something with car. When I went to see, he was holding the car by the roof rails! The car had started to roll forward towards the deep deep reservoir!!!! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: When I checked the handbrake, it was still on two notches but considerably slacker! :P From the snow tread pattern it could clearly be seen that it had rolled and not slid and had gone about one metre before that friendly chap had intervened. Good luck he was there on a day when there was literally no-one else around! WARNING! ALWAYS apply handbrake firmly and engage gear when parked on a hill and lock the steering wheel to a safe direction. Have read about this type of incident in the papers (Vauxhall Vectra) but didn't take any notice until I saw it happen with my own eyes!

Sticking a bit of foam rubber in the gap cures it. see picture (sorry for the dirty state of the mirror!)

On the VW mirror design, the small gap between the mirror and the door "whistles" loudly at very high frequency - sounds like an old 405 line TV set. See pictures below

Naaah! Never spoil em while they're young - leads to bad habits later.... Plus you'll get the dealer all confused (mine was), and they'll pinch your good oil to put in their souped up corsa and they'll overfill yours with 20/50 and they'll......<continuous ranting>

NO! (please don't shout!) Use an electronic solvent such isopropyl alcohol, although clean petrol will probably be just as good. (Knew that petrol was useful for something.. :rolleyes: ) Take the Sensor off the vehicle, clean it carefully by washing it through and dry it out thoroughly before refitting (plus leave an hour or two for solvent/petrol to evaporate). Don't poke things into it (cloths/qtips etc) Not guaranteed to work and there is a risk you might damage a good sensor. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT...... What do you mean by fine? Did the report say there was low or no boost pressure? That can be caused by a number of things that arent picked up by the PCM diagnostics. Vacuum pipes/boost solenoid/PCM/wiring.

Running on gas and backfiring somehow conjures up visions of Jonesy's van on Dad's army with the big gas bag tied the on top! :rolleyes:

What would be the usual symptoms of a duff turbo anyway? Lots of smoke, noise, possibly a wrecked engine? Not just a power loss - any comments?

Electrically heated front windows are a Ford invention ("Quickclear"?) and are used in top of range mondeos and scorpios I think. IMO the big irritation with the unwiped area is in dirty weather - it just becomes a distracting dirty blur. Plus when I wash the car beautifically clean, the first wash/wipe and youv'e got that band of dirt almost right in front of you.

Sorry! Air release valve is a red herring :rolleyes: This would normally remain closed until the cap is screwed back on. Nozzle doesn't release it! :rolleyes:

On Mk 1 the fan (it only got one) comes on constantly at half speed when A/C is selected irregardless of whether its cold/working/etc.

Don't have any problem with mine (Mk 1) provided its at the correct angle (about 45 deg clockwise) and not forced in too far. Ivor, I (accidently - twice) tried the truck filler (abroad) but the nozzle is too large to fit a Mk 1. :huh: