seatkid

:D Whatever you do.... DON'T press this button..... :lol: How the hell would I know without a picture? :D Sounds like a faulty gear selector Ask the guy who sold you it.

If the CC panel flashes when you start the car, then the gas has leaked out. Bad repair. Take it back.

Have you checked out the vacuum pipes to the turbo and bosst control solenoid. look at the end of this thread...

Yes its on the TIS in a subfolder named "disk1" find and run "setup.exe"

Its not the MAF! Are you saying that your car won't start? If so, did this happen after messing about with the throttle position sensor? Please describe the fault in more detail. Does the engine rev at all? Is it power that is lost when driving? Or does the revs drop and stay at idle? Or what?

Yes I admit I'm a tight wad Yorkshireman but honestly, the original battery is still going strong... I'm also on original brakes at 65,000 miles! And the car uses less fuel than a Skoda 1.2 Fabia! :D :D But it is a single battery key without any light......Got 2 remote keys with the Skoda so should be OK for at least 14 years :P

I think you need to read the following thread particularly toward the end. It's very likely to do with vacuum control pipes associated with the turbo and boost control.

Sometimes I just don't know if youre pulling my .......... B) What I meant was, I think stations recalculate their price everytime they take a delivery based on what the supplier has charged them for that load. SO, in BRISTOL and S Yorks. where hardly anyone uses LPG, the price has stuck because the last delivery was probably in 1998...... :P :)

Most likely to be a failing water pump as this is a common fault. This can sometimes be confirmed by letting the engine get up to temperature, and with the engine idling, turn on the heater on full blast. If it goes cool after a short while then the pump is gone. Otherwise, most would advise you change the thermostat first as it might be this and it is a little job to change c/w water pump. You need to remove the timing belt to change the water pump, so consider changing the timing belt at the same time.

its called the "the sensor that mesures the outside temp for the switcjing on of the aux heater the one that clips on the wiper linkage" or STMTOTFTSOOTAHTOTCONWL for short :) N289 Thermo switch, outside temperature

So are you sure the one you didnt turn around is in the right way - I suspect thats why the light isnt working.

So the problem/solution was staring you all the time in the face! <_< Reckon vaccum piping accounts for a lot of faults on these engines. Well done, photos will be a great help for others looking at similar gremlins.

How come I'm still on my original key battery after 7 years without a problem? <_< RussT - you did put the batteries in the right way round? One maybe the wrong way round. As my key only has one battery (no light) I can't advise further....

read today on BBC

You mean LPG.....I guess they probably change the price when the tanks are refilled and LPG isnt popular here so old stock, old prices....

read this today on HJ Bear in mind that 80% of HJ posts are a load of rubbish... the original intention of this thread was to judge whether I should go for a diesel or petrol replacement for the old VW Golf rustbucket. I fancy a second Fabia (for the kiddies) but with the cost of fuel sky rocketing, is the one to go for a petrol 1.2 (ave 45 mpg) or a 1.4 PD (ave 60+mpg but

At our Morrisons it's still 32.9p/litre! Would get my 1.2 Fabia converted except there's no official conversion, and the industry gives the impression its full of cowboys and bodge artists. Not to mention insurance....

Makes me suspect that your clock was reset before delivery by dealer as first service should be at 10,000 miles! :lol: Your "new" car really had 2500 miles on it! It refuses to start until you show it a bill for

Radio 2 is now compulsary if you want to cruise... :lol:

dave_m - you may have a faulty boost control solenoid or wiring fault to same. (Short to ground fault) - this leads automatically to no boost (Negative deviation) My advice to everyone else - after eliminating the MAF, change the Vacuum control pipes to the boost control solenoid and turbo.

Maybe you need to reset the ECU, disconnect the battery, get it to recalibrate everything. Examine the ATM pipe, if its gone soft (from engine heat etc) then likely a lot more have as well.

V6 auto? Surely not... :lol:

If you mean the 2 thermostats that can stop the a/c, one is located somewhere down in front of the battery - could be the one you found. The other is mounted on the evaporator itself (deicing switch). i.e. deep behind the dash n.b. This info is only for manual a/c with a ford engine....

It's controlled by pulses varying the opening.(PWM I think) I think you might very well blow the turbo as it will overblow uncontrollably.:) Just try it with the ATM pipe disconnected....trust me..... I think the scenario is, as you accelerate, the ECU calls for boost pressure (TMAP reports too little) and it opens the Boost Control Solenoid and vacuum is directed to the turbo vane actuator. As boost reaches correct value (from TMAP) the ECU backs off the Boost Control Solenoid and Vacuum should be released to Atmosphere, backing off the actuator and reducing the boost - all in closed loop. BUT if the ATM side pipework is constricted (mini air filter dirty or pipe collapses internally) then the vacuum is released too slowly and the turbo has by this time overshot its target pressure. So closed loop control is lost and a fault is flagged. (TMAP - positive deviation) I remember reading somewhere in the dark distant past that this is a common problem and dealers solution is just remove the pipe to fix it!