seatkid

:angry: Oh dear! Sorry to hear that....don't despair.....s**t happens occasionally! (It happens to me a lot... :D )

Aren't there are 3 or 4 cables? Would be surprised if the gearbox is faulty.

Yes, the "whispering" noise is probably the hissing sound made by the refrigerant in the evaporator when the gas pressure is low - like a kettle - varying a little in intensity and affected by going round corners, accelerating/braking etc. In that case you got a leak and need a topup!

If its the original coolant on a older model (pre 2000) its VW G11 coolant which is blue/green. This is no longer available but you can use VW G12 plus (the plus bit is important!) which is pink. Its not recommended to mix other coolants as certain combinations dont mix with G11 - it turns to gell and blocks up everthing.... :o

hmm.... going mad.....and your second problem? dropped apostrophies? :o As I think was said before, this sounds like a vacuum pipe problem. Examine and replace all dodgy vacuum pipework. Its common for these pipe to split and it might be as simple as a pipe disconnected or loosely fitted. The vacuum is essential for correct turbo operation. Erratic vacuum causes the ECU to trip into limp home mode. There is quite a bit of vacuum gear to examine, it also power the brake servo.

Except the formula quoted

Check your tyres are not underinflated, underinflated tyres can rapidly overheat and are dangerous. I have known my rear brakes to bind, the fronts could possibly too. Check (very carefully) after your journey, if your discs are stinking hot (don't burn your fingers!). Unless you've done some heavy braking, they should be only warm. The solution to binding brakes is to strip them down and clean. Or (think about it) do you ride the brakes, i.e. use it as foot rest? Failing wheel bearings could also be the cause but I think you would notice the noise....

:rolleyes: I see the spellchecker's crashed again.....

and Americans measure theirs in SAE - stamped addressed envelopes! :rolleyes:

:huh: 1PS = 0.986HP = 735.5W = 75kgM/sec = 542.476ft lbs/sec Alles Gut?

PSI is pounds per square inch and cannot be compared directly to HP which is a popular brand of sauce. :huh:

:D Answer: It Isn't! Alex has a fault or duff battery....lead acid batteries don't last very long in high temperature environments

No! I don't think this is a VW505.01 spec oil as (AFAIK) all PD oils are xx/40W grade. If it doesn't clearly state on the container "Meets specificaion VW 505.01 or VW506.01" then don't use it! All other specs e.g. 505.00 etc are NOT suitable and MUST NOT be used otherwise you WILL damage the engine. Although some dealers may be diligent, it would seem. from evidence provided by others, they use whatever stuff comes out of the bulk oil tank which can be anything the stores foreman ordered... The Formula E oil is an oil that is used on the Ford designed and built range of engines, Zetec, Duratech etc. However, the Galaxy PD engine is a VW unit even though the model is designated "Zetec". Confused? Blame Ford marketing department.

Didn't know they had body monitors installed! Fortunately I have heated seats, so a frozen butt is never a problem. B) Are you sure its not the lamp out warning? Check your rear drivers brake light is working....

The large box containing the fan, aircon evaporator and heater unit is located behind the glove box. This has a number of motorised flaps. Maybe its one of these thats making the noise, or maybe its a leaking seal that blowing/whistling occassionaly.

That picture of your Golf is starting to annoy me.... B) :P

How the investigation going? Next thing we haven't covered yet.......what if your intercooler is all made up with gunge? Excessive boost=>trip?

Hmm....similar problem as GSMGUY..... It could be 1. leaks/restriction in the vacuum system 2. Turbo actuator mechanism problem (sticky) 3. Turbo (Boost) Control Solenoid 4. Leaks/restriction in the Boost Pipework/Intercooler First, check your air filter is not blocked. Has it been changed in the last 20k? Second, check all the vacuum pipework and fittings, are they all connected? Take the pipe off the ATM connection on the Boost Control Solenoid and see if it makes a difference, if it does then the faults somewhere in the vacuum pipework. See this thread and this thread for further info. Let us know how you get on....

I'll do that when you realise this is a GALAXY forum. B)

Just slow down a bit and explain 1. What engine exactly it is i.e. what bhp 2. Describe "power loss" in more detail - does it have initially have full power and "trip" into limp home mode when you try to accelerate. Or is there no power all the time?

Faulty crankshaft position sensor. Its not squirting at the correct time! (Sounds like me...) Its located down at the front of the engine low down and to the right. Try a search for further info, check wiring before you change the sensor. Also a flat battery can give the same symptoms...so check your battery first!

If your cap/filling flap doesn't lock then find a way to lock it. My mum had rodent damage on her Astra - the rats even bit through a fuel line. It only leaked (understatement) when the engine was running, straight onto the hot exhaust so the petrol evaporated straight away. How it didnt catch fire I dont know. Keep looking (with the engine running) - it must be a leak and could be dangerous......

Take it up with Ford Customer Service. Name and shame them.......

Apart from a drop link and 2 track rod ends (found at MOT :D ) never had any mechanical problems in over 9 years of ownership. 2 Alhambra 1.9Tdi's both 90bhp 2yrs + 7 yrs. In particular I must say the engine has been ultra reliable in some quite extreme conditions (temperatures of -20 to +38, distances upto 1000 miles in 24hrs ), MAF failed but didnt stop me driving it around Europe for best part of two years.....so that doesn't count.... :huh: You can't beat advanced tractor technology.......but now that I said that it'll probably go pear shaped tomorrow. :D

I have my own :D beliefs about oil/filter changes. 1. Changing the oil and filter exposes the engine to several seconds of "No Oil at all" first time you start. - How much damage is that? (Maybe not much....but certainly some) 2. "Synthetic" oils are definitely more stable than "mineral" oils and do not deteriorate as much with extemes of operating or non-operating conditions, they can effectively last for ever...but..... 3. E.g. In a diesel engine, the important qualities of the oil are its abilty to "soak" up soot and acid, pesky byproducts of the combustion process that find its way into the oil, without affecting it lubrication ability. 4. An oil filter gets more efficient at removing fine particles as time goes on. :huh: ... on second thoughts, that may not always be the case.....anyway.....filters do last a lot longer than people think. AFAIK the same filters are used for longlife and variable service intervals by VAG (30,000km/2yr) 5. As far as oil consumption goes the top number (e.g. 40) is the important one as this specifies hot (@ 100 degC) viscosity. The bottom number (e.g. 5) specifies cold viscosity (@ 0 degC). Interestingly 0W does not equate to zero viscosity, so maybe even a -5/40 is possible :D All oil that we buy gets thinner with increasing temperature, 0w/40w is still thicker at 0 deg c than 100 deg c.... 6. So? How long does oil and filters last? Well it depends on how you drive......more welly......more chips/tuning boxes and the oil gets contaminated with combustion byproducts... also but,to a lesser extent, a car not stored in a garage is subject to temperature/humidity cycling when the engine is stood and this allows oxygenated water to accumulate in the oil leading to RUST inside the engine. This RUST is removed when you start the engine but the oil has to "soak" it up..... The WATER can only be removed by making sure the oil gets hot enough to boil it away (cue chip pan noise) Personally, I think that manufacturers base their recommended service interval on a conservative scenario, where over 95% of drivers would not experience problems regarding engine wear. So if you are a gentle driver, store your car in a garage overnight, and make sure you get the car up to working temperature and avoid short cold journeys, then I think its reasonable to up the manufacturers interval by 50%. If you use a top quality synthetic which had a high additive content to control acidity, soot dispertion etc - (hint....its called longlife oil) you could even extend your oil changes to 30,000 miles+ without damage to your engine and potentially saving money But thats Seatkid's wacky opinion only....