seatkid

Just inspect the discs, if they are heavily worn or grooved, change them. Its easy and not too expensive and guarantees tip top performance. You will find if you fit new pads to worn/grooved discs then braking will not only be poor for a considerable time (until they bed in) but the pads will wear faster anyway... I would say change the discs every second pad change anyway.

AFAIK the size fitted to Shalaxy diesels as OEM are either 378mm wide (full tray) or 315mm wide and are at least 80Ah. More important however is the CCA rating. I would say 65Ah is a bit small. Hold on to that guarantee! :unsure: Exide batteries Varta batteries

Apart from virtually immeasurable improvements in turbo dynamics (wind up time), there will be no more power or torque as these are set by the ECU map and sensors. The only way to improve performnace is via the remapping/chipping/tuning box route. If you go down this route, the filtering may become important in achieving max power (not torque)...but I doubt it.

Modified my first post....isnt relay 30 the fool pump?

Checking out no starter motor syndrome Auto models of course need to be in Neutral or Park. Check battery terminal voltage when the key is turned to start position, if it drops significantly below 11V, either the battery is flat or knackered. Then check you have 12v at the Large starter terminal and it is still there when key is in start position. If not then check battery leads and starter motor leads are secure and not corroded. Finally check that you get 12v at the solenoid connection with the key in the start position. If not check why. For facelift models, check fuse 25, (immobiliser) relay K191 and ignition key switch. For Auto models also check auto transmission relay K71. If all tests OK then the starter motor is faulty.

Even though its a ford badge, your car is made by VW at Palmela in Portugal, it has a VW engine etc etc. The Ford PS fluid is VW spec fluid rebadged. I'm surprised it needs topping up, has it got a leak? You do realise you check it when its hot? Trust me, I'm a doctor.....not

You can get the correct stuff at VW or Seat dealers...

What about insurance? Is it a problem? Some companies baulk at the idea of even fitting dangly fluffy dice!

Try a girlfriend, or if you're married, a mistress..... :D :blink: On second thoughts, scrub that advice.....

All Shalaxy 115bhp diesel engines are PD YOU have a PD engine aka pumpe duese aka pump injector aka unit injector engine. You MUST use a PD spec oil i.e. 505.01 or 506.01 (longlife). VW 502.00 / 503.01 / 505.00 oils are NOT suitable.

If your model description is correct then yes you have a PD (unit injector) engine requiring high grade Oil to spec VW 505.01. You should top it up as a matter of urgency. Make sure you dont put too much in though.

Lighten up adema, I promise not bite your head off again (as if I did...:D ) As then, you are forgiven for the cardinal sin of not looking before leaping... :D And for your penance, Ten "Hail Marys", Two "Our Fathers" and "TSB No.72/1998" :D Go in peace....and may your problems be little ones.... :blink:

disagree :) :P

disagree :)

All weak points (links/trackrods/wipers/maf/aircon etc) thoroughly improved. Maintenance free camchain instead of cambelt Compehensive fault reporting on dash, e.g. VACOM type codes or better still english Power steering electro hydraulic system AirCon, reliable maintance free, electrically driven (i.e. not on engine) Air filter and oil filter condition sensors (e.g. pressure sensors to check when blocked/require changing) Oil drain plug accessible at front of car without removing main covers. Extended service intervals Front bonnet and bumper that has highly stone chip resistant finish. Protection to vunerable front areas - fog lights - intercooler - a/c bits - from flying debris e.g stones Most suspension components made out of aluminium. Full underbody trays/covers inc sills. Weight reduction - possibly seats. Class leading economy and emissions Energy recovery system (electro dynamic braking) - (semi hybrid) MP3/CD radio with a front mounted aux input and a slot for SD card or USB key SatNav with speed limiter function front and rear parking sensors Front Window tint band and windows that refect more heat rear windows tint electrically controllable Electrically retracting mirrors cruise control as standard Decent quality car mats available at reasonable price.

Thats it then, change the MAF!

I think you misinterpet the pinglish instruxtions. By your interpretation, no matter what the result, there is always a fault...... :rolleyes:

Is it me or is this forum suffering from an outbreak of poor spelling? :rolleyes:

Hey? What happened to his post(s)? :( Must have been expecting an instant response......He can get one of THOSE from his dealer :angry: ........we take a little time longer... we like to think about the question(s)....and like I do have to work and eat occasionally... :blink:

Dawg Nabbitt! You'll be telling me they've done any with the starting handle next..... :angry:

Must be an attack of schizophrenia :( :( :angry: :) :( :blink: anyone seen Harvey anywhere?:( :(

Just thinking out aloud....:( Q1. How does the ECU know whether boost pressure is too much or too little? A1. TMAP sensor. Q2. So does the ECU have another way or recognising "real" boost is out of tolerance? A2. Only if it compares the boost control solenoid demand is above or below preset limits for the selected condition....but surely VAGCOM could tell you that?:angry: Q. How can a TMAP sensor go faulty and the boost control still work? A. Well, it could drift (gain or offset) leading to possible Q2/A2, or the inlet port could become gunged up (reports of inlet manifold gunge common....) Hmmm.....maybe.....have you taken it off and checked its inlet and the manifold? What would be useful would be typical voltages at TMAP....anyone?

No,no,no, manual a/c models have bowden cables and vacuum operated flaps. CC models have not only completely different heater/evaporator assembly, but loads of other stuff including an ECU with different features enabled. danyoda1...you have to be mad to do it! Its easier (and cheaper) to change the car....

RUBBISH! Fords do not support variable service intervals, and even if they did the interval is typically 22000-28000 miles. You are not going to get any sense or truth talking to monkeys at dealers. Phone Ford UK Customer Service and demand a written explanation. IIRC The Speedo units can only be reset twice and by a limited amount. I believe the information is all stored in the speedo and can be retreived. See This post about speedo programming

The system is a closed loop system. The Tmap is the feedback signal that the ECU uses. That is to say, if the boost is too high, the ECU will automatically back it off and vice versa. But now you mention the previously unmentioned.....funny boost chip THIS is why your TMAP signal is too high! And probably why the ECU keeps tripping. Your plot shows that "control" of boost is present, but very obviously the boost chip is messing about with the TMAP or other parameter to give you increased boost. Either ditch the chip, or get it tweaked down. GSMguy. I think possibly the same applies to you (chip ), but also from a previous post you obviously had some restriction in your ATM pipe also, amplifying the problem. OK guys, change the TMAP sensor if you must, but don't say I didn't warn you......