seatkid

Excellent post! :blink: Time to put your money where your mouth is?.... :angry: Surely you could persuade someone for a quick swap?

Deadwatch beetle............rentokill :( EVERYONE (well almost) gets this tapping noise, its normal and par for the course. Learn to accept it.

bleep....LPG!...STAND WELL CLEAR....bleep.....LPG!.......STAND WELL CLEAR.....

If you can still get to 70mph, but when you go up a hill you struggle, then YES its a good chance its the MAF. But first, check the air filter, a blocked air filter will cause the same problem (when was it last changed?) p.s. when checking an air filter, take it out and look underneath - the top side may be clean but the the other.......

You go into the Lion's den and what did you expect? Pussycats? :( Anyone going to dealer for faultfinding is more than likely going to get his fingers burned! There is now a lot of information on this forum about loss of boost problems. Read and learn. When I advise people to check the vacuum hoses, I don't mean just stare at them or count them, check them thoroughly for leaks and blockages, loose connections etc. It will mean taking them off and testing them - use the old grey matter.

MAF failure is usually gradual and the power decrease happens over several weeks or months. If total loss of power coincided with a service, then complain to them! The whine was your turbo winding down, if it has gone then you have no turbo boost hence lack of power. (this is not a MAF symptom). Its probable something has become disconnected, a vaccuum line or electrical plug.

So they more or less admitted it... More like " we used it as a demonstrator/sales rep/runabout for about 2500 miles...." (10000 - 6600 - 700 = 2700) Delivery miles should be no more than 200 miles, usually less than 50. Contact Ford Customer Service....And demand a full history....

OK, so you've identified too much boost..... Step 1. Eliminate vacuum pipework (scientifically)... 2 possibilites the vacuum isnt being released quickly enough when the correct boost is reached - the pipework from the ATM side of the boost control valve is blocked. This is easy to check, just pull the pipe from the ATM connection on the boost control valve (one nearest the middle of the solenoid) and see if it makes any difference. the vacuum is buiding too quickly because there is a blockage in the pipework to the vacuum reservoir - collapsed/squashed/kinked pipe - to check this, with ATM pipe still off as above, (engine off) pull the pipe from the vacuum reservoir (not sure if this can be done) and blow into that end and check if its blocked..... Step 2. Either the boost control solenoid or the vane actuator mechanism is "sticky" First I would look at the vane actuator mechanism (as the most likely)......this needs to be checked for free and easy operation.... post to be completed after some further research........ :(

Can you just summarise? .....if I buy a KEY_COM plus from SKPANG do I get access to the FULL VAGCOM? I believe you can get cheaper cables elsewhere but would only get the Shareware functionality.....is SKPANG the cheapest way for a full VAGCOM setup?

Try it in yours first and let us know how you get on ;)

:unsure: Yes all very well quoting blurb....., but let me point out PD's have no high pressure pumps per se as have conventional distributor pump or common rail systems. The fuel is just presented at low pressure to the PD injector. The BIG advantage of PD is the high pressure wear prone mechanism is OUTSIDE the injector, (the camshaft) and is lubricated by the engine oil. So, no stripping of wear surfaces....and before someone says "it wears the inside of an injector" I disagree, for one the engine stops almost immediately, and the pressure in the injector maintains a film between any close surfaces. It'll just clean the injector. afaik the electric lift pump is the standard design used in both VW petrol and diesel models and runs immersed in the fuel tank. And seals can remain in the North Sea where they belong.... :lol:

Nonsense! AFAIK Petrol and diesel readily mix, years ago people used to put 10% petrol into the diesel during winter to stop it waxing up. Another dealer pulling the wool over the customer's eyes :unsure:

oops! Don't worry, just do as above and you should be OK

Gotcha! :unsure:

Not criticism, just a dig... You don't have to be technically savvy to use your ears and eyes.....it like someone asking why their car won't start but not bothering to see if they've run out fuel..... At least you posted the solution, which is a lot more than others do......consider yourself redeemed! :unsure:

IIRC PHONE means too many incorrect attempts at entering the code were made and the radio is now blocked . You now need to phone the manufacturer for advice.

:lol: Well, you idle so and so......fancy....posting here....asking opinions...... if only YOU GOT OUT AND HAD A LOOK and seen bits were hanging off! :o Isnt there someting in the Highway Code about regular visual inspection of your car? :unsure:

HEY! Just found a great way to get cheap fuel I wonder what the difference is in the different diesel types? Though at these prices I might be tempted to try their biofuel :lol:

no comment....

My opinion.... If you look at the control system it is quite simple. Basically the ECU is trying to maintain a constant boost pressure. It measures the Boost pressure directly from the TMAP sensor, compares it to the desired value then increases or decreases it using the Boost Control solenoid to increase or decrease the control vacuum. The vacuum reservoir is present in the PD models to maintain control stability. The ECU software will be set to trip whenever the Boost Pressure is outside the range expected for too long (a few hundred milliseconds). Other sensors MAF, temperature etc influence the fuelling and not the Boost. If its flagging "positive deviation" - this indicates an overpressure situation. This would eliminate main boost pipework/intercooler/air filter and TMap sensor. I would think its either a control vacuum problem which is either blocked pipework (but not leaking), a sticking boost control valve or a sticky vane actuator mechanism A "negative deviation" on the other hand is an underpressure situation, which could be leaking pipework both main and control, leaking intercooler, blocked air filter, a faulty Tmap sensor, a sticking boost control valve or again a sticky vane actuator.

Apparently not. These things are just myths and legends.... :)

Nice to see a fix reported....if more people did that then the same questions wouldnt keep being raised......

see here

Most likely vacuum pipes that control turbo. See here you can insert a link using the "http://" button on the form.

They've probably overfilled the system, its flashing and cutting out because of overpressure.