seatkid

Its usually just down to leaking or collapsed vacuum pipes/joints. Check the pipe connected to the ATM connection of the Turbo Control Solenoid. This is connected either to a mini air filter or back to the main filter box. If this is blocked, or the filter(s) are blocked you will get overboost that will trip "limp home" mode. MAF's gives totally different symptom, reduced performance that gets slowly worse and worse.(over weeks or months) for pics and other info see here and here and here

Undo nut at wheel end, and slacken nut on steering rack end. Knock wheel end out with a hammer and unscrew out of steering rack end. When you fit the new part you will need to retrack (adjust the toe-in). Use a good place with laser alignment equipment. Alternatively let them do the whole job. Mine cost

Perhaps they have a special offer, buy some parts, get them fitted free...... :P

Why bother with a hungry, costly,unreliable VR6? The sensible thing is to fit a diesel unit........ :(

how many beeps? Five beeps at ignition on means crankshaft position sensor faulty. BUT a duff/weak batterry also causes beeps to start sounding erroneously. Strange the number of battery related problems we see this time of year! :( ;)

Just pop along to your local tyre/battery place (halfords if you must) and they will check your battery foc. I think you'll find you have a duff battery..... Is there an echo in here?...

As Homer Simpson wisely said: :)

Probably rusty/corroded lever mechanism on left side rear caliper. Strip, examine, clean and lubricate........

Not unless its changed on the Mk2

Sounds like a weak battery - get it checked at a tyre/battery depot.

Yup, I can confirm this pipe supplies filtered air to the ATM connection on the Turbo Control Solenoid. Running with it disconnected will not cause running problems but will potentially allow dirt into the vacuum/turbo control system and into the main air intake albeit in minute quantities,

I think :lol: it supplies filtered air to the vacuum system (Turbo Control Solenoid - ATM connection)...but I may be wrong. Will have a look tomorrow when I clean the car....

Possibly crankshaft position sensor. Or an intermittent electrical connection or even a duff battery.

Check all the vacuum piping - i.e. to the turbo, turbo control solenoid, the vacuum reservoir, etc etc. Look for perished/split pipes and loose connections. A momentary glitch in the vacuum system will cause it to go into "limp lettuce" mode. When its working OK, if the engine can accelerate briskly uphill at 70mph+ then its unlikely to be the MAF sensor despite what VR6 says :lol: But if you struggle to accelerate (a high speed) , then yes, it could be the MAF sensor. It may also be the throttle potentimeter.

Duff Battery - treat it to a new one.. :lol:

Hmmm......interesting........is a spec printed on a can any guarantee of quality or suitability? :angry:

Keep taking the tablets...... :angry:

I am not allowed to participate in polls like this as my comments are often misinterpreted. "Soon be Easter again...."

Oil? :blink: Whats that? :D Ah yes....I remember now....put some in about 2 and a half years ago.....which reminds me, I ought to get the old girl some new oil come springtime.... :D

how about this supplier or try a local delphi supplier who will sell a top quality NGK equivalent cheaper still...

Isn't it under the ashtray in the centre console?

Well done and thanks for the report! If everyone did that we would all benefit...

Electronic rev limit is set about 5500 rpm. 3500 rpm suggests a MAF sensor fault to me.

When you check for voltage at the bulb holder, find a known good ground point. The stop lamps use a common ground distribution point located at the LH side. If this has become disconnected both sides will stop working and you wont see power at the bulb holder! VR6 is right, you should try new bulbs before you strip your dash....

Agreed, a melted fuse is because the connectors holding it have become too hot, due to a high resistance. Could be a loose fuse socket or more likely a poor crimp behind the fuse holder as MM says. The fuse will blow if there is overcurrent. Provided you fitted the correct rating, it will not overheat and melt the plastic.