seatkid

Is it still under warranty? ;)

Sniff....sniff...Kaboom! ;)

you must be on the wrong forum...... AFAIK External Temp display is only available on the Climate Control Panel, but I may be wrong. Arent all galaxies fitted with black ice(4C) / ice(0C) warning though? (2 illuminating icicles towards the centre top of the instrument pod)

still waiting?..... :angry:

Form an orderly queue boys! :lol:

I would change that number plate, the overspray gives the paint job away! :angry:

check Fuses F38 (20A) and F14 (15A). (this applies to models up to 1997) Replace fuses only with correct rating as a fault could still be there.

A bloke down the pub told me if you press and hold the brake pedal together with trip reset button, then turn on the ignition, wait ten seconds, press the horn three times, release the trip button, then the brake pedal and start the car WITHOUT turning off the ignition, then press the trip button again and hold for four seconds.....it will change the program in the ECU so your 115 bhp TDi becomes a 130 bhp. Apparently there are similar procedures to convert other models e.g. 2.3L to 2.8L. He promised to email me his Ebay link which I will post later.... :(

Mayb you should try using diesel instead of petrol.... :(

If the temp gauge doesnt get near the centre of the dial, then I would concur the thermostat is duff..... However CraigB did say that the front radiator doesnt get warm either, which it would if the stat was open. No overheating either, so water pump should be OK - could be an airlock but both front and rear? Make sure the CC is set to ECON In AUTO the radiator fan comes on and will cool the radiator efficiently! If both front and rear heating are blowing cold, then both heater matrixes unlikely to be faulty...the pipes to the front heater matrix are just to the left of the wiper motor (see below) both should get hot. The pipes to the rear heater run under the car and are obvious when you look (passenger side) After checking the pipework, it could be an electrical problem with the Climate control, check Fuses F6 (25A), F14 (15A) and F22 (10A). Has the climate control got seperate front rear temperature control? Could be temperature flap motor drive or there is an "electric switch valve" whatever that is.....

I think this tensioner is manual, it is internal and dont think its changeable. If the aux belt is just squeaking, try tightening with that one bolt....

1994? Did they make Galaxies that old? Dont think it has a booster heater then. Has it got climatonic (LCD digital control panel) or the 3 rotary knobs?

Strip it down, and wash the PCB (with VW spray Brake cleaner (TCE)) and allow to dry out before reassembly. Make sure you get to both sides. Its probably still got some lemonade swilling about, causing electrical leakage. Should be OK when dried out properly. If you see any corrosion or sticky mess, use a toothbrush when spraying it down. Dont ask me how to strip it down though.....

To test if your battery is goosed, try disconnecting it for five days and then see if will start.... I doubt that high drainage would be "intermittent", 22mA is perfectly normal.

Check for damp carpet on the passenger side - if the usual culprit (rear washer pipe) has come undone and you're using some naff windscreen fluid (Halfords etc) - this can pong. Try a search for smelly air conditioning. A/C units can get full of smelly bateria - there are number of treatments for clearing this. A cheap way though is to use Dettol air freshener lots squirted directly into the ventilation system either through the pollen filter, or under the passenger side (when set to recirc). Another suspect is the pollen filter itself, if it hasnt been changed in the last 2 years/ 20,000 miles, consider it, they tend to get damp and smelly, you can get a carbon activated one which suposedly removes external smells. One of your mates might have peed in the back on the way back from the pub that night....

Early diesels have a different tensioner (not sure if its automatic ;) ) and have a seperate belt for the PAS pump. In this case you slacken the power steering pump (3 bolts on 90bhp, 2 bolts on 110bhp) and remove the PAS belt first. Then detension and remove the drive belt (one bolt) see pic below

There seems to be two versions depending on whether your engine has a automatic tensioner or not. If the aux drive belt also drives the power steering pump then it has an automatic tensioner... Pump Assembly - Power Steering (CD-V6 and Diesel) - Remove And Install (13 434 0) Remove the drive belt. 1 Rotate the belt tensioner in a clockwise direction. 2 Remove the belt and release the belt tensioner. Pic is view from below - the tensioner is on top continued in next post....

Check your wife hasn't sublet the rear section to students. ;)

:lol: Sounds like marcusheawood been using too much baby oil with all his slippery squirts! :huh: I think dave_m is quite a bit out....I think most dealers will charge

Hasn't there been a similar thread a few days ago? try parking switch, ignition switch, immobiliser, battery,starter motor/solenoid, battery/motor leads, relays 30 thru 160, rear offside brake light,.... just kidding about that last one .... B)

B)

Turn the plastic fastener in the middle of the rear of the the light cluster a quarter turn anticlockwise and the entire lamp assembly will lift out......

like this tasteful tweak perhaps?

Petrol - you knew it was useful for something.... :D (Just kidding VR6....) :D :D

:D Heaters used to be optional extras on cars.....a good sheepskin coat was considered sufficient once upon a time (and they didnt sping leaks....) :D