seatkid

the ECU controlling the engine......basically the engine mapping should take into account that the torque convertor multiplies torque by 4 or 5 times - when moving off from stationery with foot to the floor - the engine running at 2000 rpm+........it will restrict the torque (power) so that the gbx is not overstressed until the vehicle is moving fast enough (torque multiplier goes down) when it feeds in full power. This might explain why some people feel the Galaxy auto is slow from a start..... If this is the case then tuning boxes would definitely be a bad thing. A remap/rechip may or may not be bad depending on whether the programmer continues to offer the same protection. Of course, all this protection may not exist at all and maybe the torque figure quoted by Jatco is input torque regardless of gear selection and input/output speeds....:D As my dad used to say about auto boxes, electric windows, radios etc......"yet another thing to go wrong..."

I would imagine the ECU will have be programmed to limit torque in relation to certain engine/road/gear speeds. In effect limiting torque during the inital acceleration phase. The rating of the box is a continuous rating and a short term overload would be permissible (but this info is not specified) So buggering about with tuning boxes will potentially remove the protection afforded by the ECU....

Bit more complex than that! Efficiency is greatest at mid range values - the lockup clutch is used to improve efficiency at the 1:1 speed ratio end (i.e. cruising at speed)

No extra power at all, in fact power is conserved (remember Newton?). When a torque converter slips, the product torque * rotational speed (i.e. power) is the same at the input as the output. In other words, power going in = power going out less a bit for fluid churning losses (efficiency) (Otherwise you would have to dissipate xxx kw in the torque conveter itself!) So when the input shaft of a torque converter rotates at twice the speed of the output shaft, the torque is multiplied by a factor of two. From what I can remember when I studied this many years ago, real world convertors multiply torque by a maximum of about four or five times and are designed to slip at low (idling) speed. And that is why automatics are so good at accelerating away from a standstill (compared to a manual car) For homework, I would like you to read chapters 3,4,......... :D BTW my previous comments about a clutch amplifying torque may be incorrect however........ :huh:

Well, both of these items are known common failures. However I dont think you would hear a track rod end.... The way to test track rod end (you probably know) is to tug/push the tyre in the L/R direction and check for play in the joint. Any play will be an MOT failure (both mine were failed with what looked like less than a mm play at the tyre!! Checking the ARB links involves a hefty tugging at both ends in the direction accross the car. Again, any play (even less than a mm) and theyre gone and will sound bad. Try a search on suspension mount, this has been covered by others before......

unless amplified by your torque convertor.... The torque convertor can and does multiply torque when it slips

Its a squeeze to get at the tap,so loosen the strap that holds the filter, lift the filter a bit, get a cup or something under the filter (if you dont want diesel on your gearbox) then with your fingers undo the plastic wheel under the filter (it also has a little crank handle moulded in it). You have to undo it a fair way and you'll get your hand covered in smelly diesel. When I did mine only an egg cup full of fuel came out but the hiccups stopped.

At least you know the pump/radiator is AOK! Are you sure you fitted the stat and rubber seal correctly? Could anyone whos changed one on the same model please confirm that the stat goes in long end first and then the seal and cover......? If you get the same problem with a genuine stat (they're usually around

Sounds as if the fizz maybe was an electrical arc, hence the smell. Could be a switch, could the main battery leads, the negative lead where it connects to the bodywork is a common problem. Try and "sniff" your way to the problem area...... :D

Try draining your fuel filter, hiccups are a symptom of water in the fuel, which is normally trapped in the fuel filter. There is a plastic tap under the filter. Fuel filter is normally changed every 20,000 miles

:huh: s

Just as most don't know how to remove the front bumper :(....its not a common thing to do! Its also the kind of thing thats obvious when you look.....which sooner or later you're going to have to! IIRC :huh: on MK1's the fog light clips into the bumper on plastic clips. The male tangs are moulded onto the bumper itself and mate with the fog light female bits. When the light got bashed on mine, the two lower tangs broke clean off and the light became loose....The way I fixed it was to apply DIY techniques involving araldite, self tapping screws, chewing gum, elastic bands etc. ..... the alternative is to buy and fit a new bumper? :(

Yes. Beeps signify fault codes - IIRC five beeps = faulty crankshaft position sensor But.... Beeps are also caused by a low battery. Your poor starting/beeps may be a sign your battery is about to die. Is it old? Is it fully charged, topped up etc etc? Also see This thread and this thread concerning glow plugs which also are a cause of cold start problems.

No, my experience is that if your battery is in good condition, it should start on the first turn. No - I'd be surprised if they knew what a glow plug was..... Its life is more dependent on the number of times (coldstarts) the plugs are used. The thermal cycling is probably what kills them. Mine appeared to have some evidence that they failed near the tips. Its certainly worth testing them. Anyone with a meter and a little DIY knowledge can check them easily. You dont really want to get to that situation do you?....it could be very costly depending where you are! The thing is, there are 4 plugs, when one goes - you may not notice apart from the engine rattling and being noisier when starting. With 2 gone I needed to turn the engine over 3 times to start in relatively mild weather. I reckon with 3 gone and you would be struggling in winter. and what about the stress on your battery? Its a 10-15min job to change them all, but watch out where you buy them. Dealers are expensive, but avoid very cheap ones from discount motor places. Use a good brand (I got NGK from my local Delphi distributor at

Whoops! :unsure: How did I miss that? Ignore my comments about the fuel pump! What about the fuel filter - when was it last changed? Could be full of water. It can be drained... A blockage in the fuel line is another possiblity (debris,sugar,sand) - my mums sierra fell victim to that one.... Finally isnt there a fuel cutoff solenoid somewhere or is that in the distributor pump?

I've travelled many times to eastern europe, germany etc. During very cold spells you see the better stations advertising diesel suitable for use down to -23 deg C. Gelling is not a big problem with low sulphur fuel and the exact formulation is altered to suit local market conditions. I've never had a problem starting the Alhambra even at - 20deg C. Its rare to get a sustained period of -20deg C or lower in Europe. (Wind chill is not a factor to consider either) Make sure your glowplugs and battery are in tiptop condition though, they're both essential for easy starting at those temperatures!

I think youre barking up the wrong tree.... a sudden refusal to start points to an electrical or fuel problem - lost compression etc would simply show as an increasing difficultly to start etc...the lost nut in the downpipe is a red herring. If you have lots of fuel in the tank then there should be no bubbles in the fuel line. IIRC The PD engines have an electric fuel pump located in the tank, just because there is 12 volts there or even the noise of an operating pump (a shush when ignition is turned on) it doesnt mean that fuel is actually being pumped. My Golf stopped suddenly and refused to restart. The fuel pump sounded healthy, but on closer examination an internal seal failure in the pump stopped it pumping. So first establish the pump is working by taking off the supply line to the filter and turn on the ignition, it should gush out like a tap, if its a dribble then the pump is faulty.

sounds like yet another bunch of hapless mechanics. There are no sensors fitted in the "airbox", the MAF sensor is fitted between the airbox and the turbo in the pipework - always has been. I take it you've checked plugs/leads/coilpaks. These are always first suspects on spark ignition engines with running problems. Otherwise it sounds like some dogdy electrics in this "LPG" conversion....

Marty, before you go stripping down the engine, have you checked your glowplugs? Without all of them working , the engine is lumpy and very rattly for a while after a cold start. Its very easy to check- remove the plastic engine cover, then pull off the busbar that connects to the glow plugs (a good yank is needed and the busbar bit is a tight fit). Use a meter and check the resistance to the block or negative terminal of the battery. They should be less than 1 ohm (cold engine, stood for a good while). They dont all go at once so you dont notice the deteriation. And they are used in most cold starts - even though the glow lamp may lead you to think not. The lamp is just used to tell you to wait - the glow plugs operate for several seconds after the start... Result is a much smoother idle soon after starting.

And after 8 nights in Luton airport long term car park, on a damp dark night...... It started first touch! Fantastic! :unsure: I really recommend everyone check their glowplugs Its quick and easy with a cheap meter, and makes a world of difference to those cold starts. Jeff115: Will examine the contents of CCV piping once I get over my holiday!

And after a frosty night in the open - started at first touch! :D Fixed! I would recomend anyone who has cold start problems to check their glowplugs, it is very quick easy with a cheap meter or even a light bulb. Yes the busbar requires quite a yank! I reckon glow plugs are a consumable depends on the number of cold starts. And if youve got a (MK 1 maybe MkII as well) TDI, remove that cover and check your pipework! (Close up)

Despite having a top brand battery (exide ultra) kept on float charge when not used and in a warm (5-8 deg) garage. I noticed over the last couple of weeks an increasing reluctance to start on the first attempt. At first I put it down to a small leak under the fuel filter where I drained it (following a couple of hiccups which sounded like water in the filter - cured) and didnt tighten it enough. But today it took three lengthy attempts and was lumpy to boot for four or five seconds. As the car will be stuck in an open air airport car park for the next ten days I thought I'd better get this sorted. So, having recently covered the topic of changing glowplugs, I removed the engine cover, unplugged the busbar from the glowplugs, and using a meter measured no.1 and no.3 open circuit - no2 and no 4 look ok at 0.45 ohm. Phone around - SEAT dealer - "Is it a model with a glow plug heater?" - youre the experts - tell me - "I don't know sir but we dont have any anyway, but if we did they would be

In fact evaporator leaks are very common on the Galaxy :lol: - they are a pig to change and horrendously expensive to have done at a dealer. Another common area that doesnt always show with UV dye are the pipe runs from the rear of the engine to the fornt - where they are clipped - they corrode under the clip and leak.

Not at all! People should not be afraid to post their experiences even if it is only to say they were wrong. Everybody (most dealers in fact ) have only a limited first time success rate. We all learn from experience and being able to recognise (and document) wrong solutions is just as important aslearning about the right ones. Otherwise we will all keep going round in circles. If dealers would admit they are wrong from time to time I'm sure they would gather some respect :D Anyone how claims to be a pefect motor mechanic is either a lier or lives in Nepal...

Well theres only a little over a month to next year and already the fuel crisis is becoming a distant memory. UL down to 85.9p,diesel 90.9p, plenty of 5p off if.... offers. One thing I mentioned some time ago appears to be happenning though..... diesel is slowly becoming more expensive than petrol (5% or more).