seatkid

If your'e thinking about fitting it yourself, its worthwhile phoning around even the dealers as they often can be persuaded to give discounts. Try VW dealers as well. Also try Rapidfit which are Fords cheap and cheerful servicing outlets. Lots of places like Kwikfit will price match. Then of course GSF, Eurocarparts etc.

treat it to some new vacuum pipes....

The 110bhp diesel is engine code AFN. 1Z is the early (Euro II) 90bhp, AHU is the later (Euro III) 90bhp. There should be a large sticker in the rear storage compartment (where the jack is) with vehicle build info printed on it.

I am still on my second set of Continental Sport Contacts at 65,000 miles. Just measured them all at between 4.25mm and 5mm tread. (I changed the first set at 2.2 mm). :ph34r: :D

Go on then, fire away with "the list", I promise not to laugh. :lol:

And about a dozen other sensors besides..... did not! :lol:

Its a piece of electronic wizardry that allows a PC to talk to the cars electronics and interrogate and generally mess about with all sorts of things like: It tells you whats gone wrong except sometimes it doesnt and sometimes tells you somethings gone wrong that hasn't.:lol: It can also be used to "enable" other "hidden" features such as the automatic electrically operated inflatable king size bed option, usually only available on export models...:D In the hands of an average Galaxy forum member it usually breaks more than it fixes.. :lol:

Faulty throttle position sensor? About

:lol: Unless your car built in 1965, I think you'll find that chokes (cough) are a thing of the past. COOLANT TEMP SENDER fault will give a similar symptom to a stuck choke (running rich). Try changing it..... Other basic things to check are: Air filter - when was it last changed? Spark plugs - last changed? Leads - what age and mileage? Last full service when? was it done at a dealer? Then you will need to move into running diagnostics which interrogate the ECU for logged faults......

:lol: In the far corner to the right of the pollen filter (passenger side). There is another on the drivers side.

I doubt water is coming in through here. In my experience its unusual for water to travel uphill...... :) More likely its the washer pipe for the rear wiper that has come apart - to test just use the rear washer for a while and see if the water comes back, follow the washer pipe towards the front of the footwell right upto the bulkhead - it has one or sometimes two joints which come apart. Another possibility are leaks at the front bulkhead seams or window/bulkhead. It is also possilby coming through the pollen filter and out through the floor heater vents, because of blocked scuttle drains. You can use duck tape to seal the hole - it may be easier and cheaper than trying get a grommett from your dealer :lol:

AFAIK In your case (VW PD engine) If you switch to ECON the compressor will disengage whereas in AUTO, the compressor runs all the time. On VW engines the compressor is a variable dispacement design. Ford engines are fitted with a fixed displacement design, so on FORD engines, the compressor cycles (in AUTO). The cycling is controlled by the deicing thermostat on the evaporator. VW engines dont have this stat. No doubt someone will beg to differ.... :)

What a girls blouse... :) . No! :) Use a large spanner on the flats provided on the bolt, or, in later designs, an allen key socket wrench in the end of the bolt to hold it. And you need a spanner, or socket with a long bar on the nut to acheive the required torque. Use the right tools for the job...... :lol: I know that DIY can been rewarding, but it doesnt excite me that much! :lol:

Evidently the threat was enough to make it shutup! :blink:

0 mpg - isnt that about right for a VR6? :) wait.....just reread your post..... you got.. --.- mpg i.e. >99.9mpg --.- mph i.e. >99.99mph average 0:00 time i.e. instantaneous Congratulations! you've got the first starship on the planet, instantaneous transport at an mpg that puts mine to shame. Spooky or what? Contact! Alternatively you could switch to impulse power and drive around a bit and then recheck your computer, it takes around two hundred metres before the first reading comes up <_<

Use a solvent based cleaner designed for Tar spot removal or use a clay bar e.g. Meguirs clay bar - both available from Halfords. Also it requires a little bit of elbow grease and patience! Dont forget to polish and wax over areas once you've finished.....

I have a 90bhp TDi.<_< It is capable of 100mph indicated on the straight and a comfortable 90mph including reasonable gradients. The lack of performance you describe is a classic symptom of MAF sensor failure (mine did exactly the same and eventually it gets worse....). Either replace it with a new one (

I think you'll find thats normal, its because the majority of power is transmitted from the rack and pinion when the engine is off instead of the hydraulics when the engine is running. Budget for around

:blink: The location of the fuel pump for the aux heater is completely stupid and heath robinson (hanging down exposed directly to max flow of road dirt etc) The terminals look really flimsy and have no form of protection whatsoever. I noticed heavy corrosion on mine and my car spends 90% of its life in a dry garage. I suspect this might be a common failure.

Classic ARB link symptoms

I recommend people contact their dealer and ask them to check if their vehicles have had the following recalls actioned...note these are safety recalls and will be carried out free of charge even if the vehicle is out of warranty.... Recall: 2 of 3 Recall Ref: R1999/097 Exact Model: Description: POSSIBLE WATER INGRESS INTO THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR VIN: VSSZZZ7MZTV000001 TO VSSZZZ7MZYV509825 Build Date: March 1996 to September 1999 Numbers: 9100 Defect: Subject vehicles have been fitted with a brake reservoir cap that may allow water to seep into the brake fluid over a long period of time. This could ultimately reduce the effectiveness of the brakes. Action: Recall affected vehicles to fit a replacement, redesigned reservoir cap, and renew the brake fluid. In addition, as a precautionary measure on certain older vehicles, the brake master cylinder will also be renewed. Launch Date: 31 January 2000 Recall: 3 of 3 Recall Ref: R1996/112 Exact Model: Description: BRAKE SERVO FAULT VIN: WVW...7M.TV500116 TO WVW...7M.VV504757 Build Date: Numbers: 463 Defect: The brake servo may not release fully, allowing the brake pads to remain in contact with the brake discs. This may result in overheating and loss of braking efficiency. Action: The remedy involves the fitment of an additional pull off spring to the brake servo. Launch Date: 30 January 1997

Undo the nut at the u know what.....hmmph....use a large hammer.....uh...and belt it hard! :blink: Sorry! ;) A/c faults get me that way.....

Well if its a warranty job and they give a full warranty (e.g. 12 month) on the bits they change then let them do it. Personally, I feel its a silly little wiring (sensor or loom) fault. But time is money.... We all know that that was a typo and it was meant to read the other way round :blink: ;)

Your'e overeacting. In the worst case your engine/gearbox/suspension is shot, budget for around