seatkid

Did it come with the end caps? (see photo) and how about a shot of the Ford label on the box.... http://photo.vagteam.com/MAF%20Sensor%204.JPG This is what a "new" one should look likehttp://photo.vagteam.com/MAF%20Sensor%201.JPG

Which means it was manufactured in July 2002..... 3 and a half years old..:blink: ..... At least its not the original off his P reg! If you look on the housing there should also be a similar mark somewhere. This may give the evidence youre looking for.

Don't know, but it looks as if the business end (the one with the large arrow) looks stained / wear marks to me. What was the date mark? When I changed my MAF, the the old housing had a grill that was black, the new one had a bright shiny stainless coloured grill.

The O ring looks a bit "old". I can't see on the photo but there is a date stamp (arrow mark). The arrow points to the month and there should some numbers either side of the arrow which should give the year of manufacture...

If it was like than immediately after a service then they must have pulled off or damaged a vacuum pipe/connection somewhere. The overfilled oil (and it was well overfilled!) could have caused damage too.. e.g. damaged the catalytic convertor or the EGR system or even the MAF sensor (oil fed back through the EGR and cranckase ventilation) Don't you just love dealers? :blink: It probably wasn't the correct oil either....

:) :blink: :( At the bottom of the message area is File Attachments box......use the browse button to your jpg or gif file

An Ebayer wrote.... Lets get this straight - If you go to a dealer and order a part, they should ask you something about your car (reg no. or engine no.) They are under a duty of obligation then to supply the correct part or take it back. This guy is implying that Ford sold him the wrong part and wont take it back. Cobblers. Note the condition of the box on the photograph. Note his location...."the back of beyond"...isnt that saying something? Have you been sold a second hand part? Maybe he just swapped the sensors........maybe he just cleaned up the old sensor..... Oh, the joys of ebay...... :D Maybe, but I don't have a crystal ball(s)..:D...a full description of the faults and any tests/checks you've done is usually whats required for starters.....

:rolleyes: What Seatkid does..... Keep the car in his (integral) garage so its always dry and at this time of year about several deg c warmer than outside when he pulls it out. Keep the heating/climate completely switched off for first 2-3 miles. This has the benefits of keeping the cabin dry and completely mist free. He does of course have electrically heated seats...Jeremy Clarkson said "who on earth would want those?". His heater pipes running under the car are insulated with foam lagging. (DIY stores about

Three wheels on my wagon...and I'm still rollin along..... :rolleyes: :blink:

Dear sir,..... http://www.angelfire.com/co4/grumpynam/cow/cowgraphics/compucow.gif

MUMOF4 if this is the same garage who are fixing your loom, GET YOUR CAR OUT THEIR HANDS NOW! Changing a MAF sensor is a 2 minute car park job and should cost no more than

You are being paranoid. Settle down. Take a tablet. The reason Tdi's do 50mpg is they don't waste your diesel on heat. Its called efficiency! It's normal.....soon be spring.......time to worry about the A/C instead! :P

suck it and see....

Your symptoms are classic, those of MAF failure. Try this Blatters! No, the MAF is used only to control emissions. Telephone around and negotiate!Most dealers (try ford,vw and seat) do exchange MAFs for around

Is your meter right? 3 ohms is too high, glow plugs should be less than one ohm but then again meters are rarely very good at low ohmic measurements.... But I agree, you should get 12v at the glow plugs at least for 2-3 seconds on start. Must be a fuse or relay problem....good luck

The Central Junction Box is a multi level affair. It is located above the fuses under the drivers dash, and has loads of connectors coming out of it. To get to the relays you have to remove a couple of screws and swing down the top level on a hinge.

BTW the Central Junction Box is a multilevel affair...... you have to remove screws and unhinge the top level to get to the relays.....the CJB is the bit above the bottom rows of fuses with the connectors coming out of it.

F74 (60A) is located in the central junction box which is under the drivers side dash above the normal fuses......check out K70 which is the glow plug relay. Also check F32 (3A) which is the supply to the relay coil.....

:lol: :o And lets not forget the special class reserved for those :lol: who always insist on having the last word...you know the type...B) wait for it...... :o

nah! this applies to those who belong to class 1 - those who can :lol: hun? where are my slippers dear?.....

In that case I'm not a REAL member..... :o :lol: (wusses) There are 2 classes of members....those that can and those that struggle.... B)

If the chain guides have gone then either its never been serviced or its been clocked (more likely). I would have thought it unlikely to be a manufacturing defect (although it is still a possibilty). If you retain the old parts, you could seek an opinion of their condition from a mechanic or even Ford themselves

Nobody's mentioned the secret handshake and the pig's bladder yet.... <_<

Personally I would not buy any car that had been used for towing.....too much scope for abuse...