seatkid

Plastic sump? :D Is it April 1st already? :D

Whoopie cushion effect... :P

:rolleyes: :P You may think it was rock bottom price. I think you were sold a car with a shagged engine and you paid at least

In this case, I can just about make the number out.. ...its..... :rolleyes:..... PAT 1..... "Early in the morning, just as day is dawning, he picks up all the postbags in his van....."

If it has standard rotary vent controls (i.e. not climate control) then it might be vacuum pipes to the heater controls.

In that case wouldnt it be the other way round? :rolleyes: Its because the seats are expensive. and difficult to source. 7 seats is more desirable than 5 seats.

I think you need to think about buying a new car or at least a new engine. do a compression test, to check your piston rings and valves are still there.....

Coilpak OK? Then do a compression test, burnt valves often produce this symptom...

check plugs and leads first.

Buzzer in dash is audible low oil pressure warning!!

Vw engines use Sanden variable displacement Compressors , Ford engines use .....ford fixed displacement compressors....check carefully when replacing as the different models are not compatible AFAIK.

:o <_< :lol: :lol:and now, how about a sensible price? Go to your local Delphi distributor and they're about 50p or less. :D Check out my Osram Silverstar review before you start paying silly money for bulbs. Much tosh spoken about "brighter" bulbs.

Drift to the left (in the UK) is a characteristic common to most VAG models that use the same Macphearson strut design. The design is sensitive to the camber on the road and is slightly more pronounced if the car is assymetrically loaded (e.g. no passenger). Travel on the continent and it will drift to the right. Having said that, track road end wear is common which will accentuate the drift. There is no easy way to adjust the suspension to compensate. <_<

"They're the wrong trousers, Gromit!"

Could be a vacuum pipe, MAF sensor (or wiring to), or the throttle pot (or wiring to). The "Slight noise" might indicate a vacuum pipe problem. They split, collapse or become loose/drop off at connections. (Vaccum pipes control the turbo boost)

Yes....I do.... :( The answer is......Yes! :(

Provided it has VW505.00 stamped on the can, it doesn't matter. The 10/40W will be slightly more economical than the 15/40W. Best to stick to using the same brand/type of oil every change......

:(

Heavy breather? :(

This might be the first recorded evidence of a Galaxy where the a/c works too well! :( :(

For 90bhp engines.... I think you'll find it's engine code 1Z to end of 97 then the AHU from 98 onwards. The difference being a different turbo, injection pump and remapped ECU. AFAIK 1Z engine is Euro II whereas AHU is Euro III compliant. I had both and found the 1Z engine to have a little more grunt than the later AHU, though it did smoke a little under heavy acceleration. The reason obviously the AHU is fuelled tighter to comply with Euro III. Both engines give fine economy, very similar figures, 40+ mpg is easy to acheive, the later AHU is slightly more economical, looking at my records.... The AFN engine is the 110bhp variant fitted with variable geometery turbo (98 onward?). Smoother, more power, great economy but not as reliable. WRT to warm up time, from what I recall, the earlier 1Z engine seemed to warm up much quicker than the later AHU engine. I can only assume this was linked to fuelling strategy.

By eck, you lot are a slow bunch...... my comment was directed at the Explosive nature of the topic and in particular VR6galaxy's challenge to Johnb80. {yawn} It seems to be true what they say about Galaxy drivers........ B) :lol: I have nothing against LPG, except the conversion kits and cowboys that do them. Bodging old cooker parts into sophisticated engines using self taught plumbing techniques would not do for me. Is that what you really wanted to say, VR6? :huh: Aha! ;) So the the truth is finally out!..... B) :lol: :huh:

more likely a broken wire in the rubber boot to the door. Cold -> wire (copper) contracts and break in wire "opens up".......

I am not a gambling man.....evil habit..... I dont understand why you "needed" to change the rear silencer if it sounded OK. Was it leaking? If so, could probably be patched. http://www.exhaustshack.co.ukDIY exhausts are cheap

afaik shalaxies have only ever been supplied with two keys when new. cant see why you cant just order one key, i'm pretty sure that others have...see this thread which gives a link for new transponder keys from