seatkid

Most members have torches I think...... Depends on your missus A large vehicle with 4 tyres and Ford Galaxy stickers. Often or not they do. Yes but so do most cars Pass.. how convenient... :blink: ...check at a Ford Dealer for evidence of regular servicing and true mileage on their computer system, if you can't find it, get an expert inspection......get an expert inspection anyway. Demand a BIG discount for unknown history. The list of things to check is long and I'm sure someone will be along and inform you better than me.... I'll start it off....In addition to the standard checks when buying a new vehicle also check.... Have the CAMBELT /TENSIONER/IDLERS been changed? Demand receipts..... A/c system is working and if it has had recent work it may indicate it may not be fixed..... Engine performance - is the 0 - 60 mph time correct? Does it start first touch? No smoke? Autobox - are all gears working smoothly and in the correct fashion, no strange vibration or noises, has it been used for towing? Are Windscreen wipers working fully and smoothly Check all electrics particularly, electric windows, central locking, all rear lights - looms at door and tailgates often break. Check for smells or evidence of water in the footwells, could cause expensive electrical damage. Leaks into these areas are common. Check spare wheel carrier mechanism works. theres lots more......

IIRC FORD did want out back in 2000 when the MkII was launched. However, they were tied in because of legal contract issues over the VW/Ford agreement (they were committed to take a certain number of vehicles and the market for MPVs had collapsed), and also the fact they had no replacement model available. At around that time they sold the Autoeuropa factory in Portugal (or their share in it) to VW. Unlike the Mk 1 which was a "joint" venture, the Mk II was largely VW's design effort, hence no Ford gearbox on the PD for example. The agreement was finally terminated in Dec 2005, no more new (MkII) Galaxy's were made, any sold in 2006 were just stock (and there was a lot of stock). During 2006 Ford launched their own design and built Galaxy based on the SMAX - that built in Gent IIRC and has no relation whatsoever to the previous models. The MkII design continues life as Sharan/Alhambra and has had a mild facelift recently. Rumour is a totally new Sharan will be launched in the near future. The forum may benefit form rejigging with seperate sections for Mk1, Mk2, Mk3(VW) and Mk3(Ford)......

french fries........mmmmm

Just remind me.. :D ...who was raving about remaps and tuning boxes? :D This one sounds as if it definitely won't pass the MOT smoke test! :lol: If its any consolation, I think Michael Schumacher had a similar problem recently :D However, as a fellow forum member, I really do hope it doesn't turn out too expensive for you....

Not the barrel, but the switch behind the barrel. It is a multipole switch, the pole supplying the feed to the fuel pump relay may dicky (check with a meter) - another possibilty is it may be the PATS (immobiliser) faulty - try a second key if you have one.

Yes a lot of auto's do this when "winter mode" is selected

Please refer to the "Donkeys and other forms of transport" section.......

Methinks he maybe talking about a Scorpio :wacko:

Yes. Never heard of a problem like yours before....

Sorry, thought you meant a/c evaporator.....in your case I have no idea! :wacko:

Unlikely to be the fuel pump...sounds like the relay isn't pulling in when it doesnt start. Could be ignition switch fault. Time to get a voltmeter out...... I got an exchange fuel pump for my Golf from VW at

No. They start knocking very loud when worn. Try reducing your tyre pressures 2 or 3 psi.

Noisy evaporator is usually down to low gas.

They sold you the wrong oil! The "E" range Ford oil is "value" (cheap) oil, and is definitely not suitable for your PD diesel engine which requires VW505.01 spec oil. (Beware that someone doesnt sell you VW 505.00 oil - that's another totally unsuitable oil!) The PD engine is probably the most fussy engine in the world when it comes to oil. Use the wrong oil and you risk rapidly worn camshaft/PD injectors. AFAIK the only Ford oil suitable for your PD is the Formula SD 5W-40. Go to VW/Audi/Skoda dealer and pick up Quantum PD oil instead. Remember look for 505.01 on the can!

Either a drive line component - Wheel bearing, CV Joint, Diff or it's your missus sat next to you. :blink:

Full Dealer Service History will add to your resale value for a newish car, but this effect tapers off with the car's age and mileage. i.e. by the time your car is six years old I would say it adds very little value. At six years having a working air con would be more important than FDSH. Full Service History (dealer or non dealer) is more important but even this becomes relatively unimportant once the car hits 9 or 10 years old.

When the battery was disconnected during the change, the ECU adaptive parameters were reset, leading to the "perceived" change. It will take a day or so to retrain.....

Was it fitted with an full engine undertray? Or was it missing?

The noise is due to a gap somewhere where there should'nt be one. Along with previous suggestions, Check the rubber strip in the roof channels esp near the front windscreen. It should be trimmed neatly in line with the edge of the windscreen, and closed along the length of the channels. Try some foam sealing strip in the door mirror swivel joint, this is where my whistle came from. Also check your door(s) sealing, damage to the strip and whether the door is correctly aligned (has it been in an accident?)

The things you have to watch with independents (and probably a lot of main dealers too) are 1. They change all the relevant parts, tensioners, idler rollers, camcover gaskets etc. Often old parts are reused. 2. They use good quality (OEM) parts, highly unlikely with independents in my experience. 3. They know exactly what they're doing with regard to precise setting of timing...especially if they remove pulleys as per TIS. There is some evidence that some people have had running/economy problems after a belt change. Unfortunately, its almost impossible to check their work, its all down to trust. I would be wary about a general garage that "services all makes" doing this job.

Another dominatrix? :( :D

You don't hail from essex, by any chance? :lol:

But for the lucky man who repairs her car to her satisfaction.... Dominatrix heaven! :( :(

Hairy is right, although oil will expand when heated giving a larger volume, it will be , to use MO4's delightful turn of phrase, "splashed all around" and located all over the engine....in the head, in galleries etc. By the time it drains back into the sump it will have cooled quite a lot. So it is usual to see a slightly higher dipstick level when the engine has been stood a long time. Best advice is, make sure the engine has been stood for at least ten minutes and the vehicle is parked on the level before you check the dipstick. Always remember to wipe the dipstick and take a fresh reading. As its a diesel, I would only be worried if the level was more than 10mm above the max mark. The main danger is that oil will be forced out the exhaust, possibly damaging the CAT (not that important on a diesel you might argue) and more annoyingly make a mess in the EGR valve back into the intake, possibly caking up the turbo and blocking the intercooler. In severe cases of overfilling (probably 40mm+ over max), it can also put a large load on crankshaft/piston components causing something to break eventually. BTW Best is exactly at the MAX mark not halfway between Min and Max....