Jeff115

Haynes says: Ford Formula E SAE 5W-30 or to Ford spec. WSS-M2C913-A, WSS-M2C912-A1 but what's been used to date in the sump? J.

Congrat's Mike, Nice one - that sounds like a success - you'll have to change your vehicle type profile now :angry: Sorry to hear that you're 'going through a divorce' - hence the avatar? ATB, Jeff. Sorry, fivenecks, Good garages - no, not near me. IMO 'technicians' in main dealers (VW and Ford from experience and I would welcome being corrected) do not know the basics e.g. how to read VW warning signs in front of their nose re why not to overfill the sump, and cannot think outside the box or beyond the diagnostic readout, so to speak. J.

Oggie, I don't see a VAG 1551 / VAG-COM fault code for the ambient temperature sensor although there is one listed for the coolant temperature sensor and the vehicle voltages which are also part of the aux/additional/booster water heater start sequence. IMO this backs up what GSMguy says above Having said that IMO I don't think your inop. heater is being caused by lack of/wrong signal from ambient temperature sensor. You can also check this (plus the circuit) in situ by measuring the voltage across the terminals of the multi-plug at the heater. If the flat side of the multi-plug is on your left with the rounded side on your right then check the voltage with a multimeter between the terminals at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. If ambient temp < 5 degrees then + 12v else if ambient temp > 5 degrees then 0 v You could assist the temp down < 5 degrees using a burn spray on the sensor B) If sensor is suss then bypass as MM said previously otw replace. Regards, Jeff.

Oggie, Remove the trim above the coolant expansion bottle (YELLOW) to get at the wiper mechanism - 3* 10mil bolts, from memory. Pull the trim to the right (Drivers side) to get past the coolant expansion bottle. You'll need to take the rubber seal off first (RED) - just pull upwards. Ambient temp sensor is on the NS wiper fixed arm roughly in line with the battery - just follow the cabling to it. J. http://img112.exs.cx/img112/8056/oggiestempsensor8uq.jpg

Oggie, Host the image on http://imageshack.us/index.php then link to it to display

1. Jeff 2. North County Dublin, other other side of pond ;) 3. 2002 Galaxy 115 tdi in Oyster Silver 4. 22 months 5. Yes, hard to match versatility, comfort and efficiency but gearbox seems weak 6.

Hi Oggy, Test the glow plug as described by GSMGuy here http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...wtopic=3623&hl= as the plug may not be the cause of the fault. By bridging the ambient temperature sensor you'll also rule that out as the only cause of the fault but the booster heater will not come on if there's another fault or if > 5 faults faults registered in heater control unit. GSMGuy/Mike also describes how to test and bypass the ambient temperature sensor in the above link or just do a search on the 'helpful' mans handle, Later, Jeff.

Hi Ogben, Yes, sorry for wandering off track. Wife and colleagues accuse me of it all the time, must be a bi-polar thing :( Ok, specifically, start sequence for aux/additonal/booster heater 1. positive voltage (11.5+) from fuse board; 2. positive feed from alternator (confirms that engine running; 3. ambient temperature less than 5 degrees celcius 4. coolant temperature less than 75 degrees celcius, initially; then flame monitor must tell control unit that we have booster ignition within 130 seconds otherwise automatic second start attempt; if flame does not burn normally after second start then heater remains off until engine is started again; Start sequence interrupt if: a. flame monitor registers that flame is not burning normally after 130 seconds OR b. overheating sensor detects temperature greater than 125 degrees celcius OR c. temperature difference between temperature and overheating sensor exceeds 15 degrees celcius OR d. control unit detects a fault I believe that ten faults can be logged but only last five are retained as DTC's. Auxilliary heater controller can be interrogated by VAG1551/VAG-COM on address 18. I've read that auxilliary heater can be dis-assembled. Mine has a fault with the Combustion-Air Blower and I'm going to try to strip unit, clean out etc. and re-assemble when 1. I source a gasket kit (probably difficult) 11. I get coolant as some loss expected. Bleeding requires jacking up the front of the car and is probably hassly 111. I get some time Then gain, maybe not as we've survived last Winter without it :o Meantime, dealer has said that he'll get a price for the blower unit but I don't believe that he'll get back to me. I see that mine is a similar age to yours so doubt that either of us will swing it under warranty but Gazza007 did... I swear I'll be briefer next time :lol: Later, J.

I wonder if anyone has considered using / adapting the booster heater to drive the car when in traffic (like the Toyota Prius) :lol: Now there's a thought, hmmm.... Later, J

Hi Ogben, Obviously loads of activity on this topic after I retired last night. :o To answer your questions, in my opinion, as best I can: First of all, it's not possible to as far as the Shalaxy is concerned. :D for example Seat workshop manual for the additional AKA auxilliary AKA booster heater says that it will switch on when ambient temperature is less than 5 degrees celcius (assuming that heater is working :lol: , coolant temperature less than 75 degrees etc....) As GSMGuy says this in reality is actually when less than 10 degrees and probably ballpark anyway. If you want to verify if the booster heater is working then bypass the ambient temperature sensor as MM suggests. GSMGuy described its location on the LH wiper fixed arm in a previous post. IMO you should definitely hear the noise of the air blower in the unit under the second row near side when the unit is on. Secondly, I understand that the tdi engine runs quite cool (hence the need for the auxillary heater) and IMO it will heat up quicker when under load/being driven rather than stopped/idling/crawling in traffic. Hence I would not consider it abnormal if after If your temperature gauge moves when you're driving the car for 10 mins / 3 or 4 miles then I would not worry about it. You could try and increase load by switching on a few accessories e.g. heated screen, air-con (on warm :( ). You could also try recirculating air as Gazza suggests. Hope that this helps, Jeff.

Seat workshop manual says that booster heater will switch on when ambient (outside) temperature is less than 5 degrees celcius. You should definitely hear the combustion blower (jet turbine sound) of the booster heater when it's switched on. This unit supplements the cool-running VW tdi in cold ambient temperature to boost coolant temperature when the coolant temeperature is under 75 degrees (then part-assist to 85 degrees). Tdi engine will heat up quicker when engine is under load i.e. not stopped in traffic. Weather should be colder this Wednesday/Thursday as you hoped for :lol: Regards, J.

Sounds right, if the over-filled oil in the sump is slapping against the bottom of the pistons

Thanks, seatkid, tell me, is forgetfulness a symptom ? cos' I still cannot remember where I read about what caused the green stuff but on looking through my saved links I re-found this http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html - great for an afternoon's reading. Tell me also, is the sudden urge to violent action also a symptom? cos' I feel like doing a Michael Douglas / Falling down rendition in his workshop with a baseball bat B) Only kidding (hah, pun not intended!) :lol: Is dual personality a facet too...... Later, Jeff. where did I put that bat, hmmmm.....

Yes, thanks, Nik, I don't think I'll be using him again as he does'nt listen :) I gave him all the info. on my inoperative booster heater and he still could not fix it - if I can suss it with VAG-COM and rudimentary facilities then he should be well able to :) Fuch's comes in 4 litres - The only reason he had a second can to give me was that that he used some out of the second can to to OVERfill the sump :angry: Regards, Jeff.

Diesels need a grunty battery to get going first thing in the morning - thereafter it's easier. Sounds like your battery is on the way out - you could test the electrolyte if not sealed. It should have had ample opportunity for a good charge since Christmas. Did you short circuit by accident when jumping your neighbours car? Did you connect the negative terminal of the booster battery to an earth (such as a bolt head in the engine bay) rather then directly to the negative terminal on the battery to be boosted? All hindsight now I'd say, sorry :angry: and I'd agree that a new one is the remedy. Regards, Jeff.

:D Can anyone remember finding green foamy stuff inside your oil filler cap ? :D I recall coming across a description of what caused this but I can't remember what. The usual story - dealer serviced - he assured me that he'd filled with 505-01 spec. oil - even gave me a second can, well he charged me for it. Turns out that it's actually 505-00 and not 505-01 and he over-filled it :D again as usual - Fuch's Titan Supersyn 5w/40. Anyway had a barney with him on the phone today - I might as well talk to the wall :D Later, J. Can anyone explain the green foam under the oil filler cap? Regards, J.

I agree that 'He shouldn't use this site to advertise a dealership he has a possible interest in.' I had not seen all of the posts earlier and it is a bit stange that all 4 were made in the same hour on 20-Mar-05 and non since ??? Anyway hope that Steveu got fixed up in the meantime? Later, J.

Steady on lads, I think that Martin said that he and he is entitled to an opinion, like all of us that subscribe to this forum ;) - who, when where? I do agree that - the issue is whether he uses this information for the customer benefit or not.I've yet to have the oil on my 25k mile Galaxy filled to the correct level by a Ford dealer :ph34r: And speaking of profit I must do a PayPal Donate here as this forum has saved me money ;) Well maybe not - my mates could not believe that I forked out >

Why'd you take out all the seats? VR6? Oh yeah - you'd have to fit all the extra jerry cans of petrol. right? :) J.

Sorry D-B I'd say they're on TIS or ERWin but I don't have either. Anyone else? I'd apprecaite the codes too :D Mike, Thanks a lot, I'm going to tackle the dealer again next week for booster and gearbox problems under warranty. Fe*ker drives me scatty as is 5 hour round-trip before and after work to leave it there :D He's had it twice for the booster without joy - I'm still waiting for him to get back to me after last visit! He said the gearbox was fine i.e. does not want to know, but I know there's a scrunch going up into third unless eased in If outside warranty I'd take booster apart w/out a doubt as blower probably stuck or bushes gone. Same with gearbox - I'd add ATF if it was outside warranty. Later, Jeff.

Hi, I did some more tests using VAG-COM on car today and Fault Codes 01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6) 16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications by 5 times (obviously not getting a response from this part for 5 attempts) Output tests: 1. Combustion-Air Blower(V6)

I agree that VAG-COM interface is :huh: not a necessity :) a great tool, but expensive :P and that there's a lot of people 'quite happily driving around oblivious ' I purchased the interface and software as :angry: I've a couple of problems that dealer refuses to acknowledge let alone attempt to fix :( My Galaxy's nearing the end of 3 year warranty - while it's under warranty there's only a certain amount of investigation possible without invalidating the warranty and it's potentially good to have a tool that can give you more info. on the source of a problem before you tackle your dealer. Do you 'wash and vacuum EVERY Sunday _dg? That's due diligence, if so :rolleyes: Jeff. BTW Whatever made you think of 'ultra sound' vr6? :D

I referred to DubDrivers mention of this sound in a previous post here... from http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=4105 and I'm now wondering if they're related to your It's all a bit Oddie :lol: Sorry :lol: Jeff.

Hi Mike, Thanks a lot, will do some further investigation when I get time :( I achieved my brief sojourn yesterday while my energetic 2 yer-old was having a nap. I did'nt get as far as the Output Tests. Do I need a Login Code to perform the Output tests and if so where do I get one? Thanks again, Jeff.