Jeff115

Hi John, You could try and check the start signal voltages at the multi-plug for the booster heater, see here Booster heater start signals I don't know which signal voltage is interrupted by a fault code (DTC) logged in the ECU but I'd say it's Pin 1/Terminal 30. Hope that this helps, Jeff.

Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen, this is your captain 'Blatters' speaking. Today we'll be cruising at an altitude of 30,000 feet. :lol: Wonder if the NS front seat swivels for the steward/ess to do the lifejacket demo :P Regards, Jeff.

Best of luck with the Volvo, Blatters, the SE's well spec'd Jeff.

No El D, I don't think that there's any excuse for that sort of threat plus the veiled threat of email spamming - I've seen members 'unregistered' for less. Del, I think that you need to clear the air here, Jeff.

Ron, I see that MM's server is back on line - the D5W.pdf document should give you a good idea of how the booster works and diagrams, pictures and disassembly instructions - see Page 22 for description of coolant temperature sensor inside the heater and how to check. In the .pdf the booster is controlled by a timer/switch so it is possible. In my Galaxy the booster is controlled by the ambient temperature sensor located in the plenum chamber on the wiper arm assy(near-side, roughly behind the battery - do Search and you'll find pics). I'm sure that you could insert a switch in this circuit but why not try and check/replace the coolant temperature sensor which seems to be causing your booster to not to stop when coolant temp reaches 90 degrees? From you description it sounds like your coolant temperature is reaching normal operating 90 degrees temperature i.e. so this again points to a faulty coolant temp sensor in the booster heater. Regards, Jeff.

Ron, Assuming that your Gals coolant is reaching 88 then 90 degrees the coolant temperature sender inside the booster heater should signal the booster to go into Low operation mode(@88d) then off (@90d). If the ambient outsdie temperature is very cold that may not happen on a long trip as air cold/cool air passage through the matrices (radiator and front and auxilliary heaters, assuming that they're on) will cool the coolant continuously. However the temperature sensor inside the booster could be faulty/blocked. MM's helpful D5w pdf on page 15 of this topic, see Ebersp

Keith, Sounds like your booster/supplementary heater my not be working - see here for typical warm up times for the 1.9tdi Warm up times on tdi 4/5 miles for warm up, when car/engine is under load, does sound suspect. Can you hear the combustion air blower (jet turbine sound) from the booster heater soon after start up? Regards, Jeff.

Hi BigD- sorry that you had a bad day - what's ? SUMMERFIELD, If you suspect an air lock in the coolant pipes to the Auxillary and Booster heaters why not bleed the coolant circuit by raising the front of the car, see Bleed coolant circuit incl. pipes to Aux and Booster heater Regards, Jeff.

Gazza, Possible overheat if your coolant run-on pump is also playing up i.e. insufficient water circulation? Explain what you mean by ?Regards, Jeff. Have you got VAG-COM to check for DTC/fault code?

There's no need to drain coolant/disconnect coolant pipes to change to booster glow plug. Follow Ivor's pictorial here Change booster glow plug Regards, Jeff.

Hi Gazza, Good to see that you're gonna change your run-on pump now B) This post is very informative - should be a stickie Later, Jeff.

what did I say wrong? :o Jeff :P

I replaced my anti-roll bar drop links (Ford TIS calls them 'stabiliser bar connecting links') today. I had been getting a knocking noise (like worn brake pad/caliper chatter on older cars) from the front suspension especially on roads with camber. I found it easiest to jack the car up and remove the wheel. This helped access and would be needed for clearance if nuts are seized. Original ARB links (VW) had an 18mm nut and counter-lock using a 6mm hex /allen socket in the centre of the bolt. I found it easiest to use an 18mm socket for the initial slackening then using an 18mm spanner to hold the nut while loosening with the 6mm hex socket. I got the replacement drop links from GSF - they had a 19mm nut and needed a deep socket to torque up at the top link as the bolt came out through the nut quite a long way. Torque setting on retaining nuts is 74 ft-lb. Noted that OEM nut at the top had a washer which was not on the GSF spurious part. GSF links had a different counter-lock method using a 17mm spanner to hold while tightening with the 19mm socket. Note the anti-roll bar tends to rise when you remove the old one so you'll have to push it down to fit the bottom link once you done the top one. This prob. due to the car have been raised on one side. Not a difficult job (weather permitting :P ) but make sure that you have the right-sized tools :o I've read other posts where the nuts have needed WD40 and at least one where nuts were seized altogether :P Regards, Jeff. 11-Mar-06 update: knocking noise gone, well that one anyway B)

You can't let someone 'cancel' going out on your momentous day B) Well done Mum and safe driving :o Regards, Jeff.

Don't think about the past and the very best of luck today, Mum, Regards, Jeff.

David, As Bigjeeze says, do a search and you'll find load of posts relating to the booster/supplementary heater. You don't have the year/version of you Galaxy in your Vehicle Type details??? You will see in the above posts that some people have difficulty in getting VAG-COM (emulation of VAG-1551 diagnostic equipment that dealers use) to connect to the booster heater controller, particularly MK1 Galaxy models (1995>2000). This may be the case with your dealers VAG diagnostic equipment also. This in itself does not mean that your 'heater is stuffed'. It may simply be a fault code (DTC) logged by the booster heater controller in the ECU which cannot be reset as diagnostic equipment cannot connect to the controller. You can check the start signals required for booster heater operation without the diagnostics - see here Booster heater start signals Hope this helps, and take heart as you won't need the booster heater during Spring and Summer :huh: as does not normally work when ambient temperature > 10 degrees.

Snap :huh: TDIPAZ, See here and you're not alone in having manual transmission problems on a low mileage unit 6-sp manal transmission issues I'm going to change the transmission oil to Millers CRX LS 80w90 Semi-Synthetic Gear Oil and I'll let you know results. Regards, Jeff.

Try here German, Swedish and French for 93989

VAG-COM 409-1 with both: USB from lap-top now and did use with desktop and 10-meter serial connection extension - all worked fine :D Regards, Jeff. btw you may have a problem with the 'desktop' solution if you're attempting some runnin measurements/ tests while in motion :(

yes, Charlie, unfortunately Halfords and another large motor factors that I checked had only single hex sockets :D hence I got the 12 and 17mm sizes. I got caught out today also on the 18mm ARB drop link bolt - I had two socket sets with 17m and 19mm :( but not the non-standard VW 18mm size. and yes I did see seatkids post where he mentioned the ARB drop link 18mm bolt size - brain must be getting slow :D VW seem to favour hex, torx and non-standard sizes.. Later, Jeff.

Hi folks, Does anyone know the correct hex socket size (or if/where on TIS) for the drain and fill bungs on the 6-speed manual transmission? Unforutnately I elected for 12mm and 17mm at Halfords which are wrong (following inspection in the rain/dark on Thurs :D ) so will have to exchange. Looks like a 13mm/14mm hex? TIA, Jeff.

I'm sorry for your loss, smoggy Jeff. Did you check Fuse 55 - a 5-amp - centre of fusboard?

Hi folks, I'm going to change my gear oil to Millers TRX Synth 75w90 to avoid occasional 3rd gear scrunch using this lighter synthetic oil (subject to Millers clarifying that this synthetic gear oil is OK per the Ford spec.). Has anyone else changed their transmission oil to fully synthetic oil? Do you change your gear oil and if so how ofter? Regrds, J.

Mike, You can check expected fuel delivery from the metering pump, see Check metering pump fuel delivery Regards, Jeff.

Gordon, 'Snap' :wub: on the 'Flame out' DTC - see my post here Booster flame out DTC fixed Change the booster glow plug and clear the DTC (forget gaskets as you're not going to dismantle that far :D ) Regards, Jeff.