Jeff115

No Oggy, it's the same EBERSPACHER D5wz additional/booster heater fitted to my / all tdi? Galaxies, described in SEAT Workshop Manual and I believe on Ford TIS. It's just that there's a difference of opinion on the temperature floor that the ambient temperature sensor initiates the start sequence i.e. Masked Marauder maintains it's < 5 degrees per TIS, I said < 5 degrees alos per SEAT manual and GSMGuy said <10 degrees per trial and error? I agree now that it's < 10 degrees, :blink: Are you n yours cosy now of a Spring morning? :blink: Later, J.

Thanks, Gazza, but it's a bit pre-emptive in my case. I wasn't happy that it was working right as it seemed to be stopping and re-starting the blower quite a lot. So I checked it out again last night using VAG-COM to interrogate Address 18 :( unfortunately I'm getting the 01409 - Repeated Flame-Out 35-00 - - DTC again :blink: So back to the drawing board. I'm hoping that as I replaced the fuel pipe clip with a larger one and/or I've constrained fuel delivery to the unit that it might be a simple second attempt to fix but I'll have to wait on a pass from SWMBO and the kids for a retry. At least :D I've got a shiny booster unit as I cleaned while dismantling :lol: proved that GSMGuy was right at < 10 degress VS SEAT's < 5 degrees :P it was a nice sunny day for the dismantling Regards, Jeff, losing it :blink: MATT, you're barking :lol: I can't believe you have a case for that thing too.

Hi s_g, I'm quoting... DTC 65535 - possible causes Interference, electrical, from outside sources Poor earth connections, or poor positive connections to control unit You've covered most of these Also Temperature sensor in dash panel defective (can check using value from VAG-COM, Read measured value block) You'll need to interpret the value then Also Temperature sensor blower defective or lastly (and most costly B) ) Control unit defective

Hi Graham, A/c compressor on mine is behind the coolant radiator fan and underneath the alternator. My a/c is manual not Climatronic but I think it's in a similar position. Magnetic coupling belt pulley is on LHS from driver aspect. I can't see how you're going to access the contacts - there should be a clearance, when off, of 0.4mm-0.8mm between outer circumference of the magnetic coupling and the inner circumference of the m.c. belt pulley. The magnetic coupling must expand outwards in a circle to contact the inside of the pulley. As the compressor is mounted horizontally you would need to approach the gap from the right while in situ. There's only limited clearance from the RHS also to access it. Sorry mate - I can't see you doing it but I wish you ATB. By the way, the clearance could be out also on yours (must be 0.4-0.8mm over entire circumference) which would affect engagement. Clearance can be checked with compressor installed but adjustment by dismantling and adding shims only. ATB, Jeff.

Hi Richie, I've checked the wheel speed sensors on my previous Passat but not on Gal to date. Problem however turned out to be a loose connection at the control unit. Take them all out (per Haynes) and clean/lubricate with small amount of copper-based anti-seize. Mine were rusted slightly, I recall. I do remember that a faulty sensor will show a different resistance across the sensor to hub carrier to the others but cannot remember the ohm value. Anyone else? Jeff.

Manual indicates short or open circuit in wiring or connectors from Climatronic control unit to magnetic decoupler (on side of compressor) - Check wiring and connections and/or For short to earth: - Suspect coolant / radiator fan control unit (J293) defective (renew only) Regards, J.

Magnetic coupling...connects ribbed belt to the compressor... if it was/is rusty or dirty then not 'coupling' - required to be coupled to drive compressor except for 8 sec delay when cranking the starter, when you're flat out and require a little more from the engine and for use by both but only both of Dave-G's sisters's for kick-down B) SEAT manual says not as requires removal of refrigerant and at least 6 VW tools plus a puller to get the belt pulley off. - this must have started to rust again. Hope this helps, Jeff.

vr6g, I did not think that us 'mere mortals' could buy TIS, officially, that is :) Re VW erWin- erWin Login covers both Seat and VW. VW can be reached here: https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erWinVW/ but they did not have the Auxiliary Heater Workshop Manual available for download :) Matt, i think that Oggy and Gazza must be more persuasive than the rest of us :o Regards, Jeff.

Hi vr6g, Hard copy or on-line reference only - It's a secure 'Sealed media' Adobe .pdf and you cannot copy/paste from it or print to file. I got it from the official Seat site :) at https://erwin.seat.com/erWinSeat/ To get it: Register/login, click on 'Search' on LHS, follow the dropdown menus for Model, Model Year, Topic = Auxiliary Heater but other topics available are Body, Brakes, Comms. Electrical, Engine... Heating and a/c looks interesting hmmm then click Search in centre section then click on the encircled 'I' for the Table of Contents. You'll have to pay for the pleasure but

Excellent news, Oggy. The heater glow plus does seem like a common fault item. You should probably stick with that dealer for the tricky work. :) Yes I've read the Seat Workshop Repair Manual for the Additional Heater (as they call it officially !) and it describes dismantling, testing and renewing most component parts of the unit except for the combustion air blower which cannot be further dismantled. It was Gazza's suggestion to hassle the dealership - I've had no joy with mine to date. Regards, Jeff.

I got my Combustion Air Blower in the Booster heater working again today. :( The VAG-COM fault code/DTC that i had was 01414 - Combustion-Air Blower (V6) 16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications which I read was due to any of 3 possible causes: 1. Blower blocked and/or 2. Voltage at blower too high and/or 3. Fan on blower loose all of which pointed to 'Renew Unit' if not wirng or connections to unit. :D However I dismantled as far as I could w/out requiring coolant bleeding or new gaskets /o-rings. Some of the small screws on the control unit needed a good shift - probably due to heat of unit. Anyway I checked wiring and connections - no apparent problem; blower fan was spinning freely; checked glow plug which was fine; checked fuel delivery, again fine; and re-assembled (anti-seize to screws and bolts :o I failed to find a problem. :( So I said to myself this has to be a Renew Unit possibly due to fault in internal windings However before I reconnected fresh air and exhaust pipes to unit I did an Output test using VAG-COM and lo and behold I could hear the fan. I then cleared the fault codes. Unfortunately did not get the chance to bypass the ambient temp. sensor to force the unit on but I'm hopeful for the morning :D Regards, J. Hope that you get a result tomorrow, Oggy.

http://www.carrentalsireland.com/ http://www.budget.ie/the_fleet.htm http://www.dan-dooley.ie/vehicles.html - or Search Ireland +car +rental +voyager Have a look at these - seem to have automatics plus larger vehicles than the Shalaxy. Regards, J.

Hi Mark, Any update on your 'notchy Gearchange'? Mine's 'clonky' up through first and second especially when cold but also when warm. I sometimes get a scrunch going up into third but not down! I also get a 'clicking' sound and movement which is transmitted back through the gear lever when driving at approx. 15-20mph in second or third then accelerating and letting off. I suspected the gearchange cable mechanism but this was checked at last service. The annoying thing is that the car only has 25k but i'm the second owner. I read that the box is weak. Maybe I just need to get out (of the car) more <_< Regards,J.

I get that too but there's always some 'technical' excuse <_< ATB, Jeff.

Glow plug, open circuit should raise 'Diagnostic Trouble Code' or Fault Code 01491 on VAG 1551 or VAG-COM. Regards, J.

IMO the Galaxy will be a tight squeeze with 7 adults let alone luggage. Chrysler Grand Voyager should be roomier :D If you do opt for a top box - watch out for height restrictions on most beaches, amenities. We nearly lost ours at Croagh Patrick two years ago - wifey was driving and we pulled into the public car park (at speed :D . I saw the metal cross beam just in the nick of time and shouted STOP! She duly slammed on within inches of the beam - any delay and we would have lost the top box <_< Typically local councils put them at public car parks to avoid illegal campers. Usually 7 foot clearance. Regards and hope that you enjoy your trip, J.

Nikpv, Can I take it that when you fixed the poor connection to the aux. heater glow plug you fixed the problem with the 'open circuit' DTC? J.

More about revs. than speed. A good run 20-30 miles with the revs. kept high (but below 4k) through the gears.

Hi Oggie, Unfortunately lack of immediate heat is going to be a problem for the engine also. IMO the best thing you can do for a diesel is get it up to operating temperature asap especially first thing in the morning (gently though for the first few minutes). When you're stuck in traffic and and/or doing only short runs engine exhaust gas recirculation is not effective. Consequently the intercooler and the turbo through which those gases pass (or don't pass!) literally gunge up. Best thing that both of us can do (to avoid clogging the arteries in our Gals!)is to get the aux. heater working (to heat the coolant quicker), change the oil more frequently than recommended (circa every 5k) and take your Gal. for an 'italian tune up' at least once a week! That's my sixpence worth :lol: Regrds, J.

Yes, I'm not sure that I catch your drift but on balance I think that you're right mate, ;) ATB, Jeff.

Mark, You go ahead and meander as much and as many times as you like :( Who mentioned anyway? Everyone else, sorry if I seemed smart or testy, I was attempting humour, as my other posts would back up :( Later, J.

So can I take it that none of you guys, excluding seatkid (maybe :( ) and iankirk know anything about green stuff underneath the filler cap? But yez are always givin' out about your sumps being overf-filled too???? Anyway, Oggie, VW spec oil :( No, VW 505-01 vs VW 506-01 e.g. Castrol 505-01, Havoline 505-01, Esso 505-01, Millers XFE-PD...once it's SAE 5W-40 and says that is specifically meets VW 505-01 spec on the back of the bottle. Regrds, J

Hi Andy, I've just seen your other topic where you seem to have sorted your aux. htr. problems just by clearing the DTC's using VAG-COM. Nice one, that's a first that I've heard :( Anyway, I got a bit of typing practise above :( Regards, J.

Hi Andy, Welcome to the 'faulty aux heater sub-club' I assume that your aux

Haynes says: Ford Formula E SAE 5W-30 or to Ford spec. WSS-M2C913-A, WSS-M2C912-A1 but what's been used to date in the sump? J.