Jeff115

I em :( inadvertedly suggested that em :blink: p3pp3's V6 might have a :huh: trojan :P J.

:huh: Real life frogger :blink:

Hi p3pp3, Seems 'implausible' all right :D Check your vehicle earthing as this seems to be a common feature of most if not all the DTC's, Regards Jeff. Edited to remove smart comment relating to the trojan after reading Mum's rant of 02-May-06 - sorry Mum :D

Hi, being the helpful sort I discovered ( and bought new bulb for :( ) wifeys Ford Focus N/S headlamp bulb which had blown. Only trouble was that I could not fit the new bulb without removing the battery and the battery tray - too late I ralised that I'd forgotten that I would lose the radio code. Her indoors has lost (oops mislaid) the code for 6000 CD RDS unit hence I'm now in trouble :( as she likes her music. I'd appreciate help by pm and have details from side of unit, tia, Jeff. I would'nt mind but she had it serviced this week and local Hyundai dealer, where she bought the car (small town etc.) could not help :(

Sounds like fuel starvation or air ingress into fuel pipes - have you checked the condition of the fuel pipes and unions and fuel delivery? Otherwise what are the scenarios when she stalls? Regards, Jeff.

Hi Steve, I agree with MM's over-heating due to air-lock in coolant circuit extension to booster heater. Coolant temperature sensor inside the booster heater may then prevent the booster starting up. Try bleeding the coolant circuit extension to the booster and auxillary heater at the rear of the car - see here bleed coolant circuit extension at rear by raising front of car Regards, Jeff.

Hi Paul, Try here, but you'll need the Eberspacher Model number from the plate on the side of the booster heater e.g. mines a D5WZ R Thursby Auto Electrical supplies. Main dealers for Deta Batteries, Eberspacher... I've never heard of the booster control unit failing let alone failing due to glow plug open circuit fault. Have you checked all connections? MM's D5W Trouble shooter may help you also, see here MM's HYDRONIC Trouble shooting and repair Regards, Jeff. P.S. maybe Dave'l let you do a temporary swap to rule out booster controller fault to your satisfaction ;)

Excellent Nik, Now there's an idea for a visit on a fine Sunday afternoon :rolleyes: Regards, Jeff. Here's my parting shot G'night, Jeff.

George Orwell, London, 1946

Nik - it's all in the '=' sign

Gosh Nik, What with this and the vinegar and the oil - RELAX it's Saturday night - stop drinking so much coffee :D Just cut and paste then nest with proper QUOTE at the start of the quote and /QUOTE to terminate. Or start off from the main post that you want to quote from by clicking on the Quote command button. I think :rolleyes: :P :D Regards, Jeff.

Excellent :P I liked this bit I can just see him saying it :rolleyes: And Jeff.

Touche MM, arbitrarily done, :D Nik, fellow mere mortal :P , Yes, I've just noticed your ex-post post now i.e. you added I thought that I posted it to the 'Irritating things about your galaxy forum' forum :rolleyes:

OK Nik I will :rolleyes: Alas, Flood control prevents me from opening the flood gates :P Just kidding Jeff.

So what's the story with the new blue blocks? Pleeze, pleeze, pleeze can I be a MEGA Member? Can I Can I :rolleyes: :P Jeff.

Yes, Wideboy - knowledge and experience sharing on this forum has helped me and lots of members make sense of problems and avoid expensive repairs. Later, Jeff.

I recently replaced the transmission oil with Millers CRX LS 80w90 Semi-Synthetic Gear Oil. Unfortunately although it solved the 3rd gear scrunching, it exaggerated the notchiness into 2nd and 3rd when cold. This oil was obviously too thick for the gearbox and could not reach all parts quickly when cold. Last week I drained again and refilled with Dexron 111 and a Molyslip additive - this seems to have sorted all issues and gear change is now slick and sweet. :ph34r: Regards, Jeff.

Nice one, Wideboy - for a small component they certainly make a racket when worn and the knocking sound is amplified through the suspension. Regards, Jeff.

Hi Dave, and welcome to the forum. Yes, VAG-COM software plus and inteface cable (to emulate the VW 1551 diagnostic software and interface) will work from either USB or serial ports on your PC depending on which cable you buy. As to whether it will help you with that realy depends on what's wrong with it. VAG-COM will interrogate various control modules in the cars ecu e.g. engine, electrics, heating and a/c, booster heater etc. to check and allow you to reset fault codes (DTCs). Serious users can also tweak some settings etc. - not really as the Ford Galaxy (tdi variant(s)) is mostly Volkswagen (excl. badge and radio ;) ) and I recall that Galaxy, Sharan and Seat Alhambra are all assembled in the same plant in Portugal. Hope that this helps, Jeff.

Wideboy, I replaced my ARB drop links recently, see here replacing anti-roll bar drop links and other members too plus seatkid provided some good pics. This should help your m8. Do both sides All the best, Jeff. Ivor, Welcome and long time no hear :blink: how's the job?

Nice one ,Gaz, eventually :ph34r: Hope that your Gal's sorted now, Jeff.

I have never seen it referred to as 'an injection pump' but it does control the flow of diesel to and into the booster heater and the booster heater control module controls it to deliver fuel at full or part load modes. The coolant temperature measured by the sensor in the booster heater determines when the booster heater should from full to part load to off modes (or if overheat => off). Other members have had this problem due to the exposure of the connections to the elements, water, salt, grit etc. I've not heared of it failing intermittent basis but possible if bad electrical connections. You can follow this to test fuel delivery of booster metering pump Yes, both to intiate booster start but booster can operate at part load if cooant drops to 88 degrees, from memory. Yes, but test the connections to and from, fuel delivery lines and quantity of fuel delivered by the pump before contemplating replacement. And Do a Search as all of the above have been covered many times, hope this helps, Jeff.

John, Full marks for perseverance :angry: Couple of further questions: When was the last time that your booster was working? I assume that your metering pump is working and that you checked connections to it also? What's your location - I'm sure that there's a member with full VAG-COM version who can check it also? Regards, Jeff.

John, The booster control unit is (sealed I'm afraid :( ) inside the side cover of the combustion air blower cover where the cable goes into the unit - you would have removed the side cover to access the booster glow plug. Check pin 6 for voltage signal from the ambient temp sensor - - did you check for this sensor on the n/s wiper arm? YES I hear you say LOUDLY :lol: Alternatively is it possible that your booster is controlled by a switch on the clock in the headliner inside the car? Let us know, Regards, Jeff.

Dave, I used to think that too but others will beg to differ - members esp. with pre-2000 models (D3W boosters) seem to have fixed faults by just fixing the cause e.g. replacing glow plug to fix 'flame out' or 'short' faults. They also seem to share difficulty in getting VAG-COM to connect to Controller Address 18, the booster interrupt. However this does not help JohnP, :blink: Regards, Jeff.