Jeff115

Smoggy, The metering pump supplies a specific amount of diesel to the booster heater. If it's not working then the booster will not work - the inop. pump will cause an open or short circuit fault code in the cars ECU which controls the booster heater operation. It's not critical that the booster heater is not working (many members have had faults with the booster). However as the booster heater supplements engine and cabin warm up by directly heating the coolant when temperature outside is less than 10 degrees, it will be better for your engine and for you to get it fixed :) ATB with your dealer, Jeff.

Hi Chris, Ok so there's not much wind about at the moment so you're bound to notice the exhaust smoke and smell a lot more. If there's a lot of smoke there could be a fault with the booster heater operation. This may be due to a fault in the metering pump (determines the amount of diesel getting to the booster heater) or the combustion air blower in the booster heater(which makes the turbine sound) or air input or exhaust output restrictions. Based on the experiences of others here it's probably due to a faulty glow plug in the booster heater unit. Revised Beru glow plug part number is 0 100 226 340. Ivor's detailed a pictorial how-to-fix in this topic (requires a dry day, some tools, WD40 and that pink sheets that you got for a wedding present - to lie on :blink: and the new glow plug ) see Page 7 in this topic - Ivors fix-it Regards, Jeff.

Oh no :) after all your prep. I'm sorry to hear that :o Sounds like you need a holiday? Jeff.

Matt, Sounds like your coolant thermostat is either not closing or opening too early therefore not allowing coolant temperature to reach 90 drgrees. I've not replaced one on a Galaxy but should be easy enough to access, cheap to buy, but as you'll need to access the coolant circuit then you'll need to bleed it afterwards, Regards, Jeff.

Right so, just for comparison, and obviously warm up time depends on start temp of engine/coolant, ambient temperature and type of driving but coming home today.... at 18:00, engine off for say 9 hours so is cold, outside temp. of 7 degrees at 18:01, have driven half a mile stop/start traffic through town with lights only load on, I hear the booster air blower coming on 18:07, have driven another mile, booster still on full, coolant temp. gauge at mid point 18:10, have driven another mile, can see temp. moving up then booster cuts out as temp gauge shows 90 degrees I then swithced on both front and rear heaters to cool down the coolant slightly. I hear the booster blower kicking in again (possibly part load mode) for about 2 mins to bring temp back up from 88 to 90 degrees. So say 6 minutes to warm up coolant from cold to 90 degrees+ with outside temp. of 7 degrees and normal driving. Jeff.

Yes, best of luck with your test, Mumof4, you deserve it :) I've been following your posts and your positive attitude in attempting to deal with a host of mechanical (and human) issues is like a breath of fresh air. :) Regards, Jeff.

Martin, The tdi engine will generate more heat when under load. Suggestions Did you bleed the coolant circuit when you replaced the D3W heater with the D5w model? Bleed coolant circuit when booster heater disconnected If not, can you now follow the heated coolant around the circuit now when the booster heater starts running i.e. is it getting to the front heat exchanger? coolant circuit flow diagram - 2002 model tdi As you replaced a D3W (which from memory requires additional coolant pump at the heater) with a D5W (from car which relies on coolant run-on pump in engine comp.) - does your car need an additional coolant pump? Do you have a rear heater (with heat exchanger)? if so, turn it on also. I find that in my car, as the rear heat exchanger is located before the booster heater (and coolant temp. sensor in the booster heater) in the coolant cricuit that when I turn on the rear heater this causes the booster to fire up quicker/more often. Cooler water coming from rear heater matrix hits coolant temp. sensor in booster heater causing heater to be fired up. Hope that this makes sense :) Anyway, hope that this helps, Jeff. BTW could i suggest that you keep posts relating to the one issue under a single topic as it would help to get the full picture? :)

Hmm, let me see, Alfred, from Oslo, wants to liven up his bad young dog with some music of American origin by adding some 4x4 'Cow bars' to the front :blink: VR6 is concerned that some virtuous socially-concerned types will not agree with this approach and call the dog a 'screaming child-killer' :rolleyes: Mum thinks that the dog will look funny and possibly post-orthodontic :D Meanwhile Alfred has developed coprolalia and enhanced his vocabulary significantly :P seatkid has been rendered speechless :huh: Just one question - what colour is the dog? Regards, J.

Galaxy Man, You could check also that you're getting start signal voltages at the multi-plug connector using a voltmeter see Check start signals Regards, Jeff.

Greggles, I too have 'clunk' going up into second, but not down :P , when cold and scrunch going up into third, unless revs are kept low, whether cold or hot. IMO it's a design fault / weak box - mine's only got 32k miles on the clock and I've had it since 9k. El D - I can't see worn baulk rings / synchro 'going away' though scruncing can be managed by keeping revs low. Some have suggested replacing gear oil with ATF - this may help but i'd anticipate an eventual required gear overhaul. :D Regrds, J.

Dave, I had similar symptoms (excessive smoke, booster apparently not firing, leaking fuel) as others have had - see Ivor's past on Page 4. I suspected the combustion air blower but found this to be fine on dismantling the unit. VAG-COM test could also turn the blower on by itself. The fact that you're getting smoke at all indicates that the blower is probably working but failing to get fuel to burn completely maybe during to faulty ignition. as blower is not ramping up to normal operational revs. I fixed mine by exchanging/upgrading the glow plug and clearing the 'flame-out' DTC's using VAG-COM. If you've d/c the metering pump then the booster will not get fuel at all and you'll probably get a 01413 Metering Pump faulty DTC also. Hope this helps, J.

Galaxy Man, Per VW & SEAT W/S manual, G62 refers to the coolant temperature sender for the a/c switch-off. This passes info. to the ECU or radiator fan control unit to switch on the a/c clutch at high coolant temps. This unit is located on the near-side of the radiator. The coolant temp. sensor controlling the booster heater is located within the heater unit: In the D3W (3Kw unit >05/2000) unit the temperature sensor is part ref. G18 In the D5WZ (5Kw unit 06/2000>)from unit the temp. sensor is part ref. G241 Your 00522 DTC then does not seem to be related to the booster heater operation but you should probably check wiring and connections to G62 anyway. Regards, J. BTW Peter, Yes the combustion air blower in the booster heater unit does make a loud turbine like whining noise when in operation :(

VW/SEAT recommend bleeding coolant circuit again if pipes are removed at the water heater by iteratively 1. raising front of car by approx 50 cm 2. topping up coolant 3. lowering car again and doing test drive 'til engine reaches normal operating temp until coolant circuit is free of air bubbles... Regards, J.

Hi Martin, Check the voltage at the pins of the 8-pin multiplug located at top of booster heater, with the ambient temperature sensor bypassed and with engine running: if you hold the multi-plug connector with the flat side to your left and the rounded side to your right and pins 2, 4, 6 and 8 are across the top row from left of the multiplug (8 is blank) pins 1, 3, 5 and 7 are across the bottom row from the left of the multiplug (5 is blank) Start signals required by booster heater: check pin 1 - terminal 30 voltage from the fuse box check pin 7- terminal L is from the alternator, voltage if engine running check pin 2 - terminal 31, temperature at coolant temperature sensor is less than 75 degrees check pin 6 - indicating that temperature at ambient temperature sensor is less than 10 degrees or that switch is bypassed You can also check the operation (and without the booster heater running) of the combustion air blower and the fuel metering pump using VAG-COM Hope that this helps, Jeff. Also I see from your other post that you had corrosion issues, seized bolts etc. - I'm not sure if the booster heater is earthed through the body to the car frame but you should check that you have good earth now also.

Hi Neil, Er no, rear heater has its own heat exchanger/ matrix, heat settings and coolant supply and is therfore an additional heater. Try setting the rear heater on hot (level 3 on control, NS over pillar in roof lining) and the front on cool with a/c on. Works for me to cool down the fractious adults in front while helping to get the youg un's in the rear off to sleep <_< Mine's non-climatronic Regards, Jeff.

I'm happy for you and it's a good find and it's great to avoid paying stealer prices and do a DIY solution but I'd still like to know the difference ;) Regards, J.

Coolant circuit flow diagram on mine looks like: 1. Taking coolant pump as start 2. Cylinder head 3. Additional heater shut-off valve 4. Coolant circulation pump (run-on pump?) 5. Branch to both front and rear (additional) heat exchangers 6. Booster heater unit from rear (additional) heat exchanger only 7. Return from front heat exchanger and feed from booster heater join to go back to coolant pump Also 8. Cylinder head to top of radiator 9. Bottom of radiator to coolant pump Also 10. Expansion tank fed as branch from line from cylinder head to top of radiator 11. Expansion tank returns to line at 6. above So I think the answer is No/after, it's engine then heat exchangers/matrices then from rear matrix/exchanger to booster heater unit then to coolant pump and engine Hope this helps, J.

EBAY# 4596897444 is for a Wellman equivalent of the original Beru glow plug for the Eberspacher unit.

Welcome back from your holiday, seatkid Do you remember the 'Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal Out of Range' DTC? I remember that you suspected that this was due to a faulty connection to the sensor. I'd like to check that connection if you remember where it is? Ta, J.

Sorry Jason, I don't have the part number for the kit but I was about to buy heater glow plug and kit at Ford spares, they had it on screen incl. gasket and screws, but unfortunately the glow plug was too expensive so I left it and got later at GSF. Try here, but you'll need the Eberspacher Model number e.g. mines a D5WZ http://www.rthursby.co.uk/acatalog/Eberspacher_Heaters.html Model number is on a plate on the side of the heater unit. You may get away without damaging the screws on the side of the control unit when accessing the combustion air blower/glow plug area - turn heater on its side and let WD40 drain down around bolts as they may be heat/age/rust seized. All the best, J.

Hi Alan, Have not had cause to replace metering pump but it does not look too difficult in manual. 1. Check position before removal 2. Pull fuel hoses off pump and plug 3. Remove pump from bracket 4. Re-install... You can test quantity of fuel delivered if metering pump is suspect: Check first: Resistance = 10 Voltage at pump 11-13 volts No fault recorded (using VAG-COM) Fuel pipes, unions etc. are OK Enough fuel in tank (i.e. not in red area) To test: 1. remove fuel pipe at pressure / heater side and attach new fuel hose to bleed into a measuring glass (25ml capacity) 2. switch booster heater on - after 45 secs the mtering pump will start to deliver fuel 3. hold measuring glass at same height as heater and allow fuel to bleed from pipe into glass for a further 40 secs 4. now pump and pipes are bled so switch off the heater and empty the glass 5. put pipe back into glass and switch on heater again (glass at heater height again) 6. after 90 secs the heater will switch off automatically 7. read measuring glass - quantity delivered should be 7.5 ml to 8.5 ml of diesel 8. if not then suspect metering pump Tel me, why do you suspect the pump? Did you decoke/de-soot the combustion chamber as suggested by MM - seems to me to be the most likely culprit and caused by the bio-diesel. IMO this would cause overheating within the booster heater which causes your erratic running. Anyway, all the best, J.

Hi, I received the following fault code on Address 01, Engine: 19464 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal Out of Range P3008 - 00-00 - - I remember a post, possibly from seatkid?, which suggested that this was due to a faulty connection somewhere in the lower mid engine bay area. Unfortunately I cannot find the post on search for camshaft, sensor... Any ideas? seatkid? Regards, J.

Good post seatkid, Regarding the crankcase ventilation piping - you were probably in no danger of those noxious fumes from the crankcase reaching you in the cab if the piping did wear through due to the 10mm circumference of greeny-grey gunge on the inside of the crankcase ventilation piping :huh: Only kidding - did you take a look at the inside of the crankcase ventilation piping? I'd be interested in knowing the condition of your 1998 tdi and the mileage, Regards, Jeff.

During class, a teacher trying to teach good manners, asks a student, "Michael, if you were on a date, having supper with a nice young lady, how would you tell her that you have to go to the bathroom?" "Just a minute, I have to go pee." "That would be rude and impolite." said the teacher. "What about you, Peter, how would you say it?" "I'm sorry, but I really need to go to the bathroom, I'll be right back." "That's better, but it's still not very nice to say the word 'bathroom' at the dinner table." "And you, Little Johnny, are you able to use your intelligence for once and show us your good manners?" "Yes. I would say, 'Darling, may I please be excused for a moment? I have to go and shake hands with a very dear friend of mine, whom I hope you'll get to meet after supper." The teacher fainted.

Hi NikpV, There are a few different 'modes' of booster heater operation - if on engine switch-on the ambient ari temp is less than 10 degrees C and coolant temp is less that 75 degreees C the booster heater will operate at full output (3 or 5 KW depending on heater model); Then assuming ambient temp still < 10 degrees and if coolant reaches 85 degrees C => heater operates in part load (half output) if coolant temp drops again to less than 78 degrees => heater operates again at full output if coolant temp reaches 88 degrees C then heater goes into run-on phase and turns off after approx. 100 secs. So it's not just a simple paraffin heater :lol: Regards, J.