Richard gal

In a word yes, the load rating is what it can carry at a certain pressure, 97 is above normal so sometimes shown by extra load or reinforced, it is the load rating that matters.

That would be very naughty!, i assumed it is the main engine loom connection as it would have been undone when the engine was replaced. In my handbook Fuse 31 (3amp violet) is for instrument cluster but also audio, does the radio work?

The main dealer has higher labour to cover extra overheads, like having to pay for the only computer that can communicate with the car. The ford fitted belt will come with a full warranty. But its your choice.

Blocked fuel filter would be my first check.

Not near London, and as there is still some warranty i will take it to fords.

Oh great! Just still under warranty, will i get it done free before it gets bad? Does it start to lose fluid?

You have a main engine multiplug not connected, where it is i dont know, and its not easy to see in a Galaxy engine bay, someone on here must know where it is???, possibly near the battery?

So the AC was at normal pressure but had a hole in the pipe big enough for the oil to get out????... ask them to explain further!

My 130hp 1.9 diesel at 170 g/km is now

Speedo and RPM are different things, so would it be a multi plug is not conected somewhere? and maybe other things are not working... eg coolant temp.

Thanks guys Always run it on auto at 20 degrees since i bought it last Nov. The display does not flash but also the clutch never engages however i play with the settings. So is that just low pressure then?

Today the gear changing got a little notchy. I noticed the pedal was not coming back up fully, so hooked it up with foot and all was well, this happened a few times. Question is; is it just a sticky pedal or something wrong at the other end. Fluid level OK BTW

Hi Now the long awaited global warming has arrived, my galaxy does not seem to cool very well, is there an error/warning system for low pressure? I have the electronic dual climate control system And as a secondary question on this, in winter it will suddenly fog up the front screen after 40 miles or so driving, switching on the screen heater clears it but what caused it?

Sounds like bad connection to me, disconnect battery and remove and clean leads on the starter motor and where the main earth is connected to the car, clean battery leads and replace. If it it is still the same then it most likely is worn out starter brushes, they can be replaced or service exchange it.

I think your turbo has gone especially if it isnt overheating and less/no smoke at higher engine revs, what you need to hope for is that none of the fins have come off and gone into the engine... head off job to check the damage.

I would check the fuel filter, there is no reason it cant be blocked, a new one will block in ten minutes with enough dirt in the system.

It is the problem and will cost a few pence for a copper washer, its not presurised when not running and only a little when it is, its only the leak off back to the tank so no worries about air getting in. (the car will run ok without the pipe, just sprays fuel everywhere!!!) Just undo the bolt slip the washer in and tighten, NOT TOO MUCH as its a hollow bolt.

I have had this happen before on 3 occasions, (and on smaller cars) but they never got that bad, and was told this was due to swapping wheels from side to side, (so they are running backwards compared to when originally fitted)

Do these plastic inpellers melt into a blob when overheated?

Is the neck of the tank ok or has it got damaged and not sealing correctly?

You could try some additive type stuff and really thrash it, Diesels like hard work to clean them out. OR take the injectors out and get them serviced, much cheaper than replacing, i used to have a local firm who would just check them and charge nothing if they were OK.

Identical problem on a diesel ford fusion, but was still under warranty (18 months old) so no problems getting it all replaced.

I wonder if its injecting too much fuel trying to avoid a stall? ....not sure how you cure that though!, but i think maybe 1 or 2 injectors are not working quite right so not getting combustion until more heat is generated. Mine on a 0c morning will start without waiting for glowplug going off, and only protest a little.

Is there a reason it wont be the maf sensor again?

Im not convinced, if it cant heat the glow plugs properly then it wouldnt hardly turn over never mind start it, but a fast turn over with a new battery would help all cylinders to combust properly from the start, Trickle charging the battery overnight would sort of simulate a new battery. It could also be the glowplug relay is not staying on long enough after starting.