Richard gal

Its the seal in the master cylinder, the fluid is getting past it... slowly.

Ford technical service will still tell you to use the Ford 5/30 super plus (think thats its name) and will stand by any claims... my local Ford workshop man... who is very old and experienced says hes never seen a problem due to the wrong oil in these engines

You really need the crank locking tool. I bought a draper one off ebay... then sold it agan on ebay after use!

driving forwards at over 5mph??? switches them off, or the switch.. same as a mk 2

I thought the wires were insulated and became connected via the disc when worn?

The nav radio was a factory option and did not come with cd changer as standard, i bought one for mine and found i needed a new cable as the one in the loom did not suit either the radio or changer.

You only know is higher because of the monitor, its always been like that... on every car/van lorry etc etc.!

It isnt an extra bulb, its in the car software to switch existing bulbs (i have similar in a SMax), wether it can be adjusted i dont know, but doubt it.

What about the alternator pulley? when did they start fitting the freewheeling ones that later on dont freewheel and give those symptoms?

No ,you HAD increased power and fuel economy, bung the pipe with a ball bearing and refit.

Well done, its such a bugger putting a key in a door and turning it, had a kuga for a month while waiting for new Smax, it had button start and keyless entry, now it really is a bugger pressing the remote to open the door and the massive fiddle putting the key in to start it! PS in olden days unlocking the drivers door did nothing to unlock other doors!!!

Just a point, you cant have rotating seats with the seat multi media screens... wires and all that!

Have you tried reprograming it? ...see book... it may take a few goes before it works though.

Leave the belt tensioned, put small screwdiver into the alternator where the fan is, and CAREFULLY! test if it will move ONE way with a little resistants and not at all the other way, if so its OK, if it wont move without bending something it needs replacing... the problems only show on tickover usually.

The TDI badge has silver and red on it on the 130hp, only black and silver on the 115 Also should say in logbook ASZ1 variant and 96kw power

It wont leak while there is pressure as the pressure with make the seal work better, while its at rest it will seep past, did it get so low you have air in the system?

Give yourself 3 hours, its fiddly with allen key studs where you cant really see them, once done block the rubber vacum pipe with a ball bearing and refit, that will stop it working and give better fuel economy and a better reading at MOT time.... but you will emit nitrous oxides... but dont worry about it!

Why are you changing it? dont think its listed as a service thing anyway, many car gearboxes dont have a drain plug.

Going by friends Mondeo running out of fuel you need lots in the tank to get it to bleed propely, we put in 10L, but the RAC man added another 20L before he got it going the next day,... took him 30 mins!

The working egr valve stops high Nitrous oxide emissions, they are not tested for on a UK mot.

Pull off rubber vacuum pipe and block, then cap the EGR pipe, or push ball bearing into pipe and refit, you may like to have a look inside the valve to see how coked up it is. PS. you will get better fuel econony as its using oxygen to burn fuel rather than CO2, and will pass the mot with less emissions.

It will be on the end where the track rod end is screwed on like any other track rod wont it, or how would it lock it? It may look like part of the track rod end casting after years of corrosion and the track rod end does not have a nut like thing as part of it.

starting to sound scarey !!!, the haynes says about removing a tray from under the engine/gearbox and then memoving the front seat etc, sound like a big job, any ideas on cost to replace the cables or get someone to do it ?? if anyone knows of anyone in Essex, that would be good !! Thanks so far Gary Haynes is talking about the splash sheild under the car (if its still fitted!) which you will need to do to get at the gear stick end of the cables, i am suggesting you look at the top of the gearbox first where the cables operate, and thats directly under the battery.

Agreed, but its what Ford specify for 95% of Ford cars inc Diesel, just the odd RS its no good for. They may be wrong but thats what they use.

Its worth noting ford dealers (2 near me at least) and Ford customer services, state their formular E (15/30 i think) is ok for a VW/AUDI tdi in a Galaxy. They claim its fine and VW dealers use a better oil as polos etc need a better one and its to simplyfy things in each dealership. The old guy in my Ford dealer says he never seen any damage to an engine caused by oil that they have serviced according to book.