JohnR

Doctor, doctor, my husband thinks I'm mad because I like kippers. That's nonsense. I like kippers too. Really? You must come round and see my collection!

Guys, I'm sure you can do much better than this.... here's a few more:- Doctor, Doctor Have you got something for a bad headache? Of course. Just take this hammer and hit yourself in the head. Then you'll have a bad headache. Doctor, Doctor I keep getting pains in the eye when I drink coffee Have you tried taking the spoon out ? Doctor, Doctor I keep seeing double. Please sit on the couch. Which one ! Doctor, Doctor I need something to keep my falling hair in What about a matchbox ! Doctor, Doctor I

Patient: Doctor, doctor, I'm having trouble removing these new cling-film trousers! Doctor: Hmmmm....I can clearly see you're nuts!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-GALAXY-VW-SHARA...1QQcmdZViewItem or just search for "Galaxy track rod end"

BigDaddy, I just explained a mis-diagnosis when an MOT station told me the same thing.....my clunk was definitely fixed by swapping the bottom knuckle......... I reckon that suspension noise is only correctly diagnosed about 50% of the time.

Except I've never needed the two leg puller. Just undo the top two capheads (8mm hex key), wedge the lower arm clear with some timber, undo the Nyloc nut until it is only 2/3rds engaged (to protect thread if you are going to refit same knuckle with new nut later) and persuade it with a copper hammer (occasionally resorting to a 4lb one if necessary).

Mine was clunking too. "Slight wear in track control arm" was reported in MOT (but it passed). When I dismantled and investigated, track rod ends were fine. Wear was in the lower knuckle joint. I swapped the lower wishbones complete with knuckles for

Just whipped the airbox out....easy then. What was not easy was undoing the 27mm hex heads on the front calipers! Had to buy a nice chunky straight ring spanner in the end (used an 1" 1/16" in the end which is 26.9875). With a 4lb hammer, I eventually got them shifting. That was after I sheared off a 1/2" drive when trying it with a socket and 24" breaker bar!

Just done my rear disks and pads this morning. On my Mk2 Tdi (2002) the rear caliper fixings are 18mm hex heads. They were a bit tight, but some wd40 and a good socket on an 18" breaker bar plus a hide mallet soon shifted them. The disk fixing is a 6mm hex key. Bleed nipple is 10mm but mine was easier with an adjustable as it was a bit rusty. Hardest part was getting the new pads into the caliper for some reason....have done loads of these on other cars and it was just a really tight fit. Just need to find the brake fluid reservoir now....where did they put it? Seems very illogical not to have it on view when you open the bonnet!

If I recall correctly, a very sturdy 7mm Allen key to remove callipers.

No difference, use either. Failing that, use the option to scan everything, make a note of the modules found then save your own config file. Can't remember exactly how, but it wans't difficult.

Dunno how you manage that......our two (15 & 17) won't do a blind thing. Got so mad on tuesday I wrote a big list of sarcastic instructions on the kitchen wall in indelible felt pen........guess who's going to have to redecorate now :-(

Hey, how about designing a fully programmable RC hoover!....now there's a useful project!

Yonks old.....you'll have to do better than that ;-)

For his birthday, little Patrick asked for a 10-speed bicycle. His father said, "Son, we'd give you one, but the mortgage on this house is $280,000 , and, your mother just lost her job. There's no way we can afford it." The next day the father saw little Patrick heading out the front door with a suitcase. So he asked,"Son, where are you going?" Little Patrick told him, "I was walking past your room last night and heard you telling Mom you were pulling out. Then I heard her tell you to wait because she was coming too. And I'll be damned if I'm staying here by myself with a $280,000 mortgage and no bike!"

"Bless me Father, for I have sinned. I have been with a loose woman." The priest asks, "Is that you, little Timmy Shaughnessy?" "Yes, Father, it is." "And, who was the woman you were with?" "I can't be tellin' you, Father. I don't want to ruin her reputation." "Well, Timmy, I'm sure to find out sooner or later, so you may as well tell me now. Was it Brenda O'Malley?" "I cannot say." "Was it Patricia Kelly?" "I'll never tell." "Was it Sheila O'Brien?' "I'm sorry, but I cannot name her." "Was it Kathleen Morgan?" "My lips are sealed." "Was it Fiona Grogan, then?" "Please, Father, I cannot tell you." The priest sighs in frustration. "You're a steadfast lad, Timmy Shaughnessy, and I admire that. But you've sinned, and you must atone. You cannot attend mass for three weeks. Be off with you now." Timmy walks back to his pew. His friend Sean slides over and whispers, "What'd you get?" "Three week's holiday and five good leads."

Its ok....I just found all the old ones!

Was that just so you could start re-cycling them?

Next time you have a chance, just lift the hood and see if you can hear a whirring noise near the back for a couple of minutes after you turn the engine off. Brush wear in the after-run pump is an extremely predictable rate so if yours has not been replaced it may well need doing at the age of your gal (4/5 yrs 100k miles is typical). The only indication that mine was not working (other than the lack of the aforementioned noise) was that the aux heater would not fire up properly. It would have a go for a minute or so and then bomb out. The after run pump circulates the water through the aux heater.

Did it actually fire up and work properly? It may well be a bit smokey at first. If so, once its had a good burn it might be ok. Otherwise follow thread in faq's to swap glowplug. John PS. Its a good idea to put your car details in your signature so people know the age and spec.

After fitting a new glowplug, and making some new brushes for the after run pump last year, mine fired up no probs this morning.....gives you a nice warm feeling! :-) Don't forget, if your gal is more than 4 years old and you have trouble getting the heater going then make sure your after-run pump is working. With the hood open, you should hear it running for a couple of minutes after you turn the engine off. Its

Ok, I fitted the new wishbones and ball joints this morning. Problem solved! It was the rear rubber bushes that were worn. On the drivers side, it was cracked on both sides of the rubber, and more than 1/2 way through. Fitting them was not too difficult took about 1.5 hours altogether:- First, spray fixings with WD40 a couple of nights before hand Remove plastic engine tray, 6 fixings with 10mm socket and extension Jack up one side and chock it, remove road wheel. undo 2 socket screws (with 8mm hex key) which secure the lower ball joint (neat idea, you don't have to split the joint itself) undo the screws securing the ends of the wishbone using 21mm socket and long breaker bar (tightened to 90Nm which is about 3 weetabix on a 2ft breaker bar ;-)) pry the wishbone ends out (I used a small wrecking bar which was ideal) Reassemble with new wishbone and ball joint. Note that on mine, the new ball joint needed a 22mm ring spanner (original was 21mm) and a 7mm hex key (non-standard!) to hold the centre against rotation. Repeat for other side. Note that after doing this, the tracking will be out. I drove it around to ATS and had it laser aligned. Next job is disks and pads all round.....ATS quoted

Have just ordered lower wishbones with bushes and balljoints for

ok, I just confirmed that my original diagnosis was correct. a) If you heel/toe the accelerator/brake in first gear then reverse then first there is no clunk at all. :unsure: If you jack one side of the car up and get someone to yank the wheel hard left to right, you can feel the play in the rear wishbone bushing, and also hear the clunk noise. Will get some from the well known auction site. Think they are about