JohnR

Why? copies of EKTA are available :lol: Oooh. Pretty please???

The drop links are on the front suspension.....just look under the wheel arches for a vertical link with bushes either end.... They look like this:- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GALAXY-ALHAMBRA-SHAR...1QQcmdZViewItem John

Guess we need some inside information from a friendly garage owner...

When you go to the dealers, they access the computer, bring up all the exploded views and can get the part numbers of bits. It would be useful if we could do this. Do they go online to a protected Ford site, or is this a local bit of software in addition to the TIS? I can't find part numbers in mine.

Bump....aux heater is working well, but it still seems to be generating this fault code! I'm tempted to ignore it but... it don't seem right somehow!

Number one candidate would be drop links (stabiliser rods...whatever....they get called different things). Get someone to rock car very hard whilst holding them to feel for clunks. They are cheap on ebay and easy to do. If you jack both wheels off the ground and put the car in gear if you rotate one wheel the other should go backwards....does it?? If not then I would suspect that the half shaft is not engaged in the spline or the diff has somehow popped. Not opened this up on a Gal yet so can't help more.

OK so I got robbed! Nothing new in that, it happens all the time! However, this one is in absolute pristine nick, not even a crease. Doesn't even look like the pages have been opened. I would'nt be surprised to hear that you can get them from Frords for a fiver though!

As it happens, I bought a brand new Mk2 manual (blue plastic folder including 3 booklets) from someone on ebay as I had lost mine. Typically, I found it a couple of days later. Here's the original listing:- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 You can have it for what I paid if you want, which was

Inner CV ist Kaputt.....you need a new drive shaft. Hopefully diff not been knackered when it went!

Ouch! Hope its not too expensive :-(

John thanks for that, do you know the easiest way to get access to it? Also what is your understanding of what this sensor does? Cleary on mine the booster heater ambient air temp sensor is on the wiper arm but I seem to recall the sensor behind the bumber was also referred to as aux heater in Vw documentation. Or did they move the location of it at some point? I'll be glad when I get to the bottom of this and find the correct replacement :-) OK. Just to clarify a point here. If you check in the TIS, you will see that there are several wiring diagrams for the booster heater, depending on the model and year/month of manufacture! Yours sounds like mine, which is a late 2002 model. On this model, if you check the CORRECT wiring diagram in the TIS, the booster heater is switched by a switch on connector N289 which is the one by the fog lamp! I don't think you'll find one on your wiper arm, I certainly couldnt! John

You mention doing an oil change.....I remember having a bad leak about 25 years ago on an old marina after doing an oil change....It turned out that I had left the old seal in place, (stuck to the block!) and then fitted a new one on the can of the filter! The double seal blew and oil everywhere! But I'm sure you wouldn't have done this! ;-)

OK. FWIW, attached is the very latest Vag-com autoscan.txt file, with lots more cars in. I have added a line for the Ford Galaxy MK2 as the very first entry. Makes scanning a bit quicker (yes, I know that you can scroll down to find the VW Sharran or Seat Alhambra but why not have the Ford Galaxy at the top of the list!! :) John After doing a full scan on mine, and finding out which specific controllers I have, I edited my autoscan.txt so that the fisrt line is a csutom one containing just the controllers that my Gal has. Saves quite a lot of time when running! John

OK, just finished patting myself on the back for getting my aux heater working....but I've found that I've still got faults which keep reappearing! Although its working, I'm getting: 01410 - Heater Over-Temp 06-00 - Signal too High Question is, is this temp sensor or over temp sensor, and is it likely to be the switch knackered or the heater in need of a decoke? Sounds as if I'm gonna have to drop the unit again and do the job properly on the bench. Anyone know the p/n's for both the switches and the cost? Thanks John

OK. FWIW, attached is the very latest Vag-com autoscan.txt file, with lots more cars in. I have added a line for the Ford Galaxy MK2 as the very first entry. Makes scanning a bit quicker (yes, I know that you can scroll down to find the VW Sharran or Seat Alhambra but why not have the Ford Galaxy at the top of the list!! :) John AutoScan.txt

The default autoscan.txt file included with Vag-com 409.1 does not list any Fords (why would it ;-)). This means that an autoscan must be set to scan individual controllers, or try looking for all of them (which can take quite a while). If anyone has already edited their autoscan.txt to include Gals I'd appreciate a copy. Otherwise, I'll have to do one myself! Cheers, John

2 - flame sensor 5 - temp sensor 6 - overheating sensor 12 - temp sensor 13 - overheating sensor Thanks. Mine all seems sorted now. Next time though (hopefully it'll last another couple of winters!) I'll do a strip on the bench and refurb it properly! John

I had one on a Pug where an engine mount had sheared. The engine was just sitting on it under gravity. It gave a sensation of slack in the driveline, and a thump when part of the engine hit the bulkhead!

Yep, confirm that. You ONLY get the warning if the temperature drops below 4 degrees while you are driving. John

I suspect that BT Fleet changed the temp sensor when they were originally trying to fault the booster heater and ordered the wrong replacement due to the difficulty in identifying the correct part that I am having. I wondered if they changed anything else! In my case the problem was a faulty heater unit and they replaced this together with the metering pump but left the wrong temp sensor in (or out as I found yesterday). So if anyone can confirm the correct part number (I suspect it is possibly 701 959 625) and verify this sensor if definitely NC below 10c that would be terrific. If anyone can give me any hints of how to find the other temp sensor behind the bumper I would like to take a look at it to check it is the correct one and to ensure BT did not introduce and further problems. Regards, Paul Paul, the sensor you refer to is just to the side of the fog lamp. Facing the front of the car, it is about 8" inboard of the right hand fog lamp, and is visible through the grille. You can force it with a freezer spray. John (TDi Ghia (115), July 2002)

You used to be able to get a repair kit. It was basically electrically conductive paint. You had to look closely at the lines on your windscreen, with a magnifying glass in my case :D and look for a tiny break(s). The paint was then put on the break with a tiny model brush and hey presto, if it was the only break, it worked again. Try your local car factors or the internet. Try this link http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criter...=5m11&source=15 Just stating the obvious, but the paint on stuff works ok for heated screens where the tracks are on the surface of the glass. Obviously, no one would be stupid enough to try it on a front screen......would they ... :(

Its very likely to be the drop links. Its supposed to be an easy swap as they are not under tension. Try getting someone to rock the Gal violently left to right while you are holding the link. See if you can feel anything. You can get them from quite a few people on ebay for about 20 quid. John Thanks John - No it's not the drop links I've done them twice before and it's completely different - It feels like either engine mountings or the stabiliser. I'll have another look but probabvly just replace the bloody thing anyway - after all 100K miles is not to be sneezed at! Mines also a 2002 TDi and has 95k on it and seems ok at the moment. Let me know if swapping it fixes your problem! It would be one on my list to look out for!!

No, should be nowt to do with it. That's an air control flap in the ventilation system.

How are you doing this?? Its best if you get a mate sat in the car. Press the pedal fast a couple of times. Also, what happens if you take the nipple out altogether, and seal with your thumb to start with? Then check the nipple is clear, and finish off with the bleed nipple.