JohnR

Trouble is not knowing what the specific spade/crimp type is. I suspect its like the Molex mini-fit inside, which means that they are a pain to remove without the special tool. My "bodge" only seems to have held up for a couple of days, and its gone intermittent again. I think I'll extract the pin any way I can and try and solder a wire on before glueing it back in with epoxy.

follow up: replacement door loom is

Ended up taking the door loom out completely on saturday in order to get my locking working again (not too bad a job, only about an hour all together). The insulation was compromised in 2 of the thick wires (where they pass through the large grommet into the door panel....why not use a softer plastic? there's a hard sharp edge - real bad design). They had large slices through to the copper, and could possibly have shorted together. The main problem was that the red/white wire to the lock solenoid had come adrift from the back of the large connector at the door pillar. It sort of popped back in but was very loose and floppy and not making a solid connection. I THINK the crimp is a single piece going right through to the tab which engages with the otehr half, but without destroying the thing I can't find out. I managed to "bodge" it by jamming the wire down the hole with a matchstick and supergluing it. I doubt it will last long. The question is, does anyone recognise the specific crimp/connector type so I can source some replacement crimps? Failing this, I'll have to replace the door loom. I have not checked with frauds yet but its bound to be pricey. Thanks, John

Excellent! That's the kinda stuff! Will check it out at the w/e Thanks.

Duh.... I might look thick but... Just FTR, I replaced first the lock motor when I found the broken torsion spring in the mechanism (it fell out it 2 bits), then the complete mechanism and lock motor (complete unit from breakers). The paddle is not broken off, and is correctly engaged in the mechanism, and all plugs are correctly refitted.... Reckon I'll have to chase down the squikit and ring the wires through from the door con to the plugs :-( unless there's a better suggestion??

I've got a problem with the locking on the gal. There were actually 2 problems. First of all, the remote stopped working a long time ago, so I've been using the lock manually. A few weeks ago, the alarm led in the door stopped working. The alarm stills activates and de-activates from the passenger side ok. last week, the drivers doorlock felt much looser. This week, it would not lock. Then a day later it locked and would not unlock. On investigation, a broken torsion spring fell out of the lock mechanism. I have now replaced the lock mechanism and lock motor (from breakers) and fitted a new LED. The door now works manually again, but it will not activate/deactivate the alarm, or work the central locking. I've pulled the boot back and looked at the wiring and everything looks good in there, no kinks or signs of damage. Anyone suggest what the problem might be? I even fitted a brand new lock motor thinking the one on the second hand assy might be u/s. Still the same. At least I can manually lock the door now, but have to unlock from passenger side to prevent alarm going off. Thanks, John

yep, thanks. Loads of 94/XL's

I'm looking at some 17" wheels to go on the Gal. I can't seem to find 225/45/17's in a 95 load index anywhere though....do people just use 94's?? Thanks, John

There's a bag of tools you wouldn't want to borrow!

The invisible man got married and had 2 lovely kids......but they are nothing to look at!

Isn't the tick-over faster with the air-con turned on? Seem to remember something about it somewhere.

I've a dodgy button on the remote so don't use it. The trick to de-activate the alarm without the double button push is as Davo suggested. I just tried using the key in the door, and turning the key twice fairly rapidly in the locking direction. After this, the red led in the door does not flash so the alarm is deactivated. Have left the windows down now, but don't expect a problem. Cheers Davo! John

In hot weather, I sometimes leave the windows down a little to keep down the heat a little in the car. This is only in the car park at work which is visible from my desk and therefore quite safe. The problem is that the airflow through the windows trips the PIR sensors setting the alarm off. Is there an easy way of temporarily overiding the PIR sensors? or failing that, locking the car with the alarm de-activated? Thanks, John

Unless you are really lucky, and have just lost some refrigerant, then it is going to be expensive. Most common fault (45% within a couple of years) is the compressor seizing up. Even if you get a recon compressor, fit it yourself and then get someone to gas it properly for you (and most likely twice if there is a leak!) you are unlikely to have change from

There seems to be some built in intelligence. When I was in the alps a couple of weeks ago, in -12 degrees, the glowplug light stayed on for quite a few seconds whereas it normally goes off almost straight away.

Its justa a dumb 12v DC pump with no sensors so you won't find a direct code. It shows as an aux heater over temp fault. The After-run pump motor is magnetically coupled to the pump, and before stopping completely, they can exhibit an intermittent over-temp fault. You can hear it when you stop the engine and open the bonnet. Its obvious if its working, a sort of whirring noise from the back.

Thanks. Have checked out the site. You can't get prices for anything without filling out and returning an account application form though! Not very friendly!

STOP! Before proceeding, check that your after run pump is running. After a run, open the bonnet immediately after stopping the engine and listen for a whirring noise from the back of the engine which stops after a couple of minutes. If you can't hear it, then the brushes are worn out. It is this pump that circulates water through the aux heater. If not working, the heater will only run for a minute or so before tripping on over-temperature. John

Have seen the 7" motorised pop-out dvd's on ebay. The eonon's get very bad reviews wherever I've seen them mentioned. There are others that I can't find details on. For instance, Pulsar DVD300 and INDVD700. Anyone know what the best value for money is at the moment on a 7" pop-out dvd player to go in the Gal? Also, are there any to fully fill the Gal's 1.75 DIN recess? Additionally, if you cut the fascia and remove the 2 cup holders, can you just fit a double DIN unit? Thanks, John

Shooting from the hip here... Maybe dirty injectors??

Put your vehicle details in your signature. A lot depends on age and mileage. I think you've covered the main ones. If the car is over 5 or 6 years old, I'd consider the hoses too.

its all in the TIS CD. Get one on ebay for a couple of quid.

I certainly did get em cheap. I just sold the alloys back on ebay for

Bump..... No one else used winter tyres in warmer weather then? How many miles could I expect to get if I kept them on? Thanks, John

I just got back on friday evening from a week skiing in Vallorcine near Chamonix with the Gal. Basically, it depends on how much space you can allocate. As there were only 2 of us in the car, I took all my tools plus trolley jack and laptop. If you want to travel lighter, then get an extension to your breakdown cover. If you are in the AA, you can get 1 weeks recovery service in Europe for about