RADIOTWO

HI You may have answered a problem on another forum ! But why would you need a fog light bypass with parking sensors ? CAn you please explain, and I might gbe able to help someone with problems on another group Radiotwo

Hi Darren HAve you got a multimeter ? If so measure the voltage of the battery first while the engine is stopped and then when the engine is running and report back Radiotwo

Hi longone I have not got any pictures, but the best way to get the cable to the back is from the battery follow the chassis leg, and take the cable along the chassis to the back and fixing with cable ties. Radiotwo

Hi Stuart Will you be towing while carrying the bikes ? if so watch your nose weight ! Radiotwo

Blimey that's easy: Connector B (C520) Pin 1 Mono + (not used) Pin 2 Sw A+ (Switched Output (On when stereo is on) - Used with Rear Seat DVD's or 3rd party amplifier switch) (green/purple) Pin 3 Aux L+ (CD Changer) (not used) Pin 4 Aux R + (CD Changer) (not used) Pin 5 PTA (Phone Mute) (not used) Pin 6 SWC (Steering Wheel Controls) (grey/yellow) Pin 7 Mono - (not used) Pin 8 SWC Gnd (Steering Wheel Controls) (blue) Pin 9 Aux L – (CD Changer) (not used) Pin 10 Aux R – (CD Changer) (not used) Pin 11 Rev Sense (Used for Navigation) (not used) Pin 12 AVC - Speed signal for Auto Volume Control (not used) http://fordwiki.co.uk/images/d/d6/Quadlock.JPG So to answer you question, its pin 2 on connector B But check it out with a multimeter fitst Radiotwo

Hi again As I said in the first post, connect it into the back of the radio, I am 90% sure that there will be a connection for just what you want, and another point of connecting there, is if the unit has a CD player then when playing a CD the aerial amp will turn off. If you connect into other wiring then you could have problems with can bus. Have you got any pictures and or list of pin outs of the connections ? Radiotwo

Hi again You have me totally confused, You first ask about powering the amp, you then say the radio has the original connector, and then you ask about picking up a ignition feed from the fuse box ! So do you need a ign feed or a feed for the amp ? If the ign feed is for the dab radio then this done by the Can-Bus system, and you take the output from the back for the radio, a Radio will not work like the old radio's where you have a constant 12volt feed and a switched ign feed to switch it on and off, its done by the canbus. Please explain a bit more what you want ? Radiotwo

Hi Mick ON normal radio's the the a output marked as Antenna etc, that goes live when the radio is on, so that would do for the amp Have a look on the back of the DAB radio to see if there is such wire, and it is normally blue, but the best way to check is get your multimeter and check the wire you suspect is the right one, and it should go live when the radio is switch on. Radiotwo

HI Dave I cannot answer if DAB has the info in the UK as in the states, but I guess its down to the radio its self, but I have just been to look at my analogue radio in my van and that displays the info you are talking about (its a Pioneer radio) Radiotwo

Sorry cannot help with the wiring for the alarm, but to check what the fuse is for, you need to look at the location where it was, and then look in your hand book for the items that that fuse protects ! As you say you have not had the car long, so it might have been a spare that some one had replaced but put the blown fuse back in the slot instead of throwing it Radiotwo

Cheers for that Mr T ( your good in the snickers advert) if lets say I just wanted to ' switch it off' is there a way of doing that? So theres no warning light or message. Hi Micko Its a warning to tell your pads are worn out, but as you say the pad are ok, but the fault is in the wiring, so if you fix that the light in the dash will go out and when the pads wear out again it will inform you they are low and need changing. But to answer the question ! no you cannot just switch it off Radiotwo

Hi pjw I am not a expert, but if that is the case I would say it is cylinder one, and that is where the belts are, but you don't say what the mileage is, but if one has gone down I suspect that others will fail, so I would replace or have all four reworked. Radiotwo

You have not said what BHP ! Radiotwo

Welcome to the forum, but you need to show in your profile the model, engine size and year etc. But at a guess it could be you bulb failure warning, have you checked the exterior lights ? Radiotwo

Hi Gordon As with most cars the best place to connect a tow-bar wiring is up behind the light cluster, if you can find which side the loom comes down, then you will have both sides. Don't forget to use a http://www.towsure.com/product/Towbar_Audible_Flasher_Monitor_Relay to keep within the law, and don't use scotch-loc connectors, as they just ask for trouble, (they cut through the original wire and can make a poor connection) The best way to connect wires is with a knife, slice a short length of insulation away from the conductor, and wrap the wire to be connected and the solder the wires, and then wrap insulation tape round the joint. I am not sure on your year, but you might find plugs and sockets behind the lights, and you can get dedicated kits so you can just plug & play but they are expensive, but a must if you have a car with Can-Bus Radiotwo

Is it not a fog lamp ? Radiotwo

Course it is ! and it is not empty as you say it has "air" and there will be some damp in there and that's not a good thing. and when there is a vacuum, it will help to pull the weighed gas, and oil in ! Radiotwo

Have you got your own vacuum unit ? Radiotwo

Hi Johan If I was doing the job, I would wire it my self, as the wiring in the car is not good enough to cope with the currents needed for the battery charging and running the fridge ! The best way to do it by running a cable direct from the battery (with a fuse close to the battery) of at least 4mm cable (when I say 4mm I would run something like 10mm)down the chassis leg, and up into the boot, and tap off there with a "smatcomm" and then run something like 2.5mm cable to the 13 pin socket. http://www.towsure.com/product/SelfSwitching_Combination_Relay Radiotwo

Hi Mirez With regards to yours, did the headlight units come with the ballests? It'll be a big-ish box bolted onto the back of the light unit with a "High Voltage" sign - thats the first thing you'll need, secondly you'll need to get the ECU of the car reprogrammed so its expected xenon lights - the current consumption at start up is higher then a halogen and will probably be triggering a protection circuit. Just a bit of information, if they are after market units, they don't need to be reprogrammed into the ecu,(admitting if it is a Ford main part)and also you will find the current is much lower than a halogen, but you will find the output voltage from the ballast is much higher, around 2000 volts. Radiotwo

Hi Martin The problem with the type of brakes as on he galaxy is the way the handbrakes work ! when you pull up on the leaver it turns a cam in the rear brake assembly, and if you have been giving the brakes a hammering before applying parking brake, the disc's will be hot, and then it will cool off and the pad will slightly release, and then you get the problem you have. The answer is to apply the hand brake VERY hard many more clicks than you think, but the best advice is ALWAYS leave the car in either 1st or reverse gear when parked up Radiotwo

Hi Again your profile states you are East Mids, but what is your local town, If you are close enough I have a tester Radiotwo

You have done it again. When you have pressed the reply button, then you type your reply Radiotwo

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