MadBaz

New motors are available HERE, for about 39.00 Euros inc VAT & shipping. Cheaper than my local stealers.

That little bosch thing is the coolant run on pump, should work on yours whilst engine running and for a few minutes after switching ign off. If it's not working your booster won't work properly, and you may suffer hot spots in the engine. It works of the rad fan relay.

Just noticed that yours is the 130ps enginehttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif so I think that yours is working correctly, apologies. Looking at the wiring diag yours would run on with the cooling fan, when the engine is hot.

It's powered by the engine cooling fan relay, there's no control to or from the booster heater. Turn the ign on but don't start car, the pump shouldn't run, then switch off and you should hear the pump running for a few minutes, if not reach in and push it against it's mounting bracket, if it then starts to work the the brushes are probably u/s.

It was okay but not stunning, the problem was getting enough light through and getting it even, i used 12v 5mm clear super bright leds, I'm struggling to remember but I think the dial was stuck to the front of the perspex, withthe dial motor screwed to the back of the perspex, to remove dials from the perspex the needles had to come off. Then it was a case of positioning the leds on the perspex and a bit of sanding to get enough refraction/diffusion to get the light in the right place, as I said a right pita, I even sanded the LEDs lightly to diffuse them. I guess others on here did it differently. The switches, door led and digi clock were really easy in comparison. I even got to the point where I was seriously thinking about having some dials made up in vinyl. For the lcd display I got a decent result by making a light tube, I stuck a 5mm led at either end of lightly sanded fishtank air pipe, without it the light was very uneven. The clock had just a loose thin plastic green filter, I replaced that with 100gsm white paper and stuck the led where the bulb went. The door Led was easy, remove the existing led and housing, drill the panel mount out to fit the 5mm panel mount. I was well pleased with the result and the strobing blue light was easy to see from a distance, handy if your not sure if you'd locked the carhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

I changed my mk1 to blue using leds in place of the bulbs, it looked okay, the bulbs sent the light via a clear perspex backplate. I honestly can't remember how the green was put on but it looked a bitch to remove, iirc it was on the back of the clock dials, to remove it would involve complete disassembly, and it was a bitch to get the needles back into the correct position, I had to do that 'live'

Good piccys, good idea siliconeing wires in, why didn't I think of thathttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif.

TIS 2004 is for the entire Ford Range, it is available for free on torrent sites, all you need is a burner or a virtual cd drive (recommended). The ones on fleabay are the same as the torrent.

Mk1 cup holders are down by the gearstick, that way coffee drips don't knacker the c/c unit, that's progress for yahttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif.

VW are usually cheaper but ring round. btw galaxy is vw except for 2.0 and 2.3 petrol engines.

get it checked with one of them online car check websites, there's one on auto traders site that I use,

Wiring in the tailgate gaitor.

Just throwing a few things at ya Anything in VAG-COM, HVAC? Flashing c/c display? Are rad fans kicking in at high temp? Air lock? Run on pump working for 3 minutes after ign off? Rad sediment? Leaks at booster? When pipes replaced, were they installed correctly? Rad pipes in good condition? ie not collapsing.

Thanks Seatkid. I'll be digging deeper. I input my reg on their website and zoom in on the label, I'm pretty sure that the description has since changed, The only thing I didn't check was the fine print on the label when I bought it (via reserve & buy).

Just had this email: Seems all is well and good.

I'd do the release bearing as well for the sake of

If the aux heater runs on after you switch off the ignition, that's what it's designed to do in order to cool down properly, whilst it's doing this it isn't using fuel. When you changed the plugs did you change the gauze? Does the electric coolant run on pump work? If you do short journeys only/ pump not working, the heater will be short cycling leading to over fuelling (smoky starts) and carbon build up, this is documented by Eberspascher, but not by VW/Ford. To lock the car whilst disabling the alarm and deadlocking, press the lock button on the remote twice quickly or turn the key to lock twice quickly , the door LED won't flash but you should see that the handles are in the lock position There are known faults on these cars which is the same for any marque, however with the help of forums like these people can do their research before buying and get appropriate help afterwards. I bought a good un, but despite being fairly knowledgeable there were faults with it, not so unexpected for a 10 year old car. The help of this forum has been invaluable with my current MK2 and my now deceased MK1. I am obviously biased but these cars are the dogs danglies, a bit frustrating at times, some stuff is by no means cheap to fix, but where else can you get such a versatile motor for the money? Buying the sales managers car is one of the oldest tricks in the book, classed as a private sale to get around the warranty he has to give on a showroom sale. Most people would've walked ran away. I'm sure the members (myself included) on here will give you any help that we can, please give detailed description of your faults and the spec of your car and I'm sure we'll be obliging.

That little wire for the starter, does it click nicely into place? On my old mk1 mine had a tab/metal clip missing, I had to push it back in every couple of days. It wouldn't cause battery drain though.

The HRW & HFW relays are incorporated into the GEM module, IE there soldered onto the PCB inside the black box that also holds the fuses. If your HRW isn't working the chances of it being the relay are slim, the chances of there being faulty wiring in the tailgate to body gaitor are quite high and easier to check.

Same a s Seatkid on MK2, but took about 10 minutes before display stopped flashing and clutch engaged. How did he check compressor before changing condensor? If no pressure then the clutch won't engage. How did he know it was condensor? dye test? Did he flush the system? Changing condensor will introduce crap into system and knacker the compressor.. Did he vac it for at least hour? Did a new drier come with condensor? Did he stick some oil in? The fault you refer to was on mine a low pressure fault, could be same code for high pressure though. Do you have rear air con? your n/s rear quarterlite won't open if you do. The reason I ask is that on the plate under the bonnet there are 2 figures for filling air con 750g for single evaporator and 1050 if a rear evaporator is fitted. If he's gone by the 2nd figure he's probably overcharged it as rear air-con is quite rare, common problem. It could be the switch itself, but from what I gather that usually shows as "short to ground" on vag-com. Get back in touch with warranty co sharpish as this may get expensive, if a new compressor is required, usually for the compressors manufacturers warranty to be valid the system must be flushed and a new drier fitted.

Instructions: Tools required: 10mm socket, small screwdriver, pliers/pipe clip removal tool, skotchloks x 2/block connector 5amp, x2 spade connectors, stanley knife, needle nose pliers, about 6" of 5 amp cable x2, tie wraps. 1, Remove the scuttle tray, x3 10mm bolts. 2, Remove engine cover. 3, I found it easier to disconnect the turbo intake pipe and gently fold out of the way. 4, Lift fuel filter out of bracket, and allow to drop about an inch GENTLY, gives much easier access, DON'T lean on it. 5, To prepare the new pump, you need to twist the connectors to an angle of 45 degrees, use the needle nose pliers, this makes enough space for spade connectors. 6, Attach 6" of cable to each spade connector, and then connect them to the new pump, make a note of +ve & -ve terminals. At this stage you can test new pump by connecting cables across battery for a couple of seconds. You can if you like, use insulation tape to secure wires to pump, I haven't found that necessary. 7, To remove old pump, disconnect the electrical connector. 8, Using pipe clip tool, move the pipe clips a few inches away from pump, this will cause grazed knuckles and induce a huge amount of cursinghttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif more so with normal pliers. 9, Using a twisting action remove the pipes from the pump, there will be a small loss of coolant, but nothing to worry about. 10, You can then either slide the pump out of it's rubber rings or wait till you... 11, remove the mounting plate, x2 10mm bolts, and then remove the old pump. 12, Cut off the nearside rubber ring from the plate. 13, I sliced the o/s ring and mounted the new pump (larger diameter) inside it using a not so modest amount of tie wraps, ensure the outlet is pointing down. 14, For the the electrical connection, you can either, skotchlok in to the existing wires without the need to remove the original connector, if your doing it this way expose the 2 wires from the protective plastic, wait till after you've refiited the pipework to make the connection. OR you can remove the connector and stick a block connector in it's place, if you're doing it this way do so now, open the terminals for the pump side of the wiring, and wait till the pipework is done before connecting pump. If your really clever you can source the proper connector. 15, Remount the pump & bracket assembly, taking care not to knock the wires out. 16, Re-connect the pipework. again avoid detaching wires. 17, Connect the wiring, this is very fiddly, trying to work behind the expansion bottle, make sure the +ve from the pump goes to the GREEN wire. 18, Re-connect turbo pipe and fuel filter. 19, To prime all I needed to do was squeeze the inlet pipe a few times 20, Test by briefly turning ign to on, don't start engine, then switch off, pump should run for a 2/3 minutes, check for leaks, you may hear air pass through pump for a while this is normal, especially if you old one hasn't run for a while. If it screeches this means it's not primed, give the pipes another good squeezehttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/wub.gif 21, Refit scuttle tray and engine cover. 22, Run engine till hot, if it's cold enough outside your aux heater should fire up and (except for glow plug and other faults) run properly, there may be a lot of smokehttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif, check for leaks, and check coolant level. Job Done.

Oh bugger I forgot about this thread.http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif The connector isn't the same, but can be 'adapted' using spade connectors, green wire goes to +ve, and mounting requires tie wraps. Other than that it works fine, booster heater works properly now. Any probs give us a shout.

It's the rubber boot on the o/s. The n/s one only carries the rear screen wash pipe. You need to check out the FAQ's:http://www.fordgalax...-and-solutions/ Items 13,31 & 43. The insulation is usually cracked exposing the cores, and quite often at least partially split. I personally used block connectors (2 blocks of 15) on the tailgate and tucked them in the lid frame and in the roof lining, I used trailer 7 core (5 amp) for most wires and I think some section of 8 amp cable for 3 wires. There are 15 wires in the boot loomhttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif, watch out for the high level brake light wires. All the wires are different colours so fairly easy to do, just be methodical.

Everything is workinghttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/huh.gif , as Seatkid said. The only time I had false alarms, is shortly before I found the broken wiring in the tailgate/body gaitor, the only clue was that the boot didn't operate the courtesy lights and the alarm would go off a few seconds after I only opened the boot . I would go along with Seatkid's suggestion of checking the gaitors, other than that it could be a spider doing whatever spiders do, around the ultrasonic sensors. EDIT: It's worth getting the boot lock working, it's the only way to get into car (physical release with extra 1/4 turn), should the electrics go u/s.

Just had a look on TIS, MK2: 2.8 and 1.9 with climate control don't have de-icing switch all others do. MK1: 2.3 and 2.0 do have a de-icing switch, all others don't. The de-icing switch is activated at 1 deg C measured at the evap fins, it disconnects the compressor clutch, it's de-activated when temp rises to 2.5 deg C. I cannot find any reference to the a/c system being disconnected according to the ambient temp.