MadBaz

Just to let everyone know I GOT MINE :22: :blink: I can't find a spare remote though :( . If anyone gets a Wii, don't buy the accesory pack (bat, racket etc) as they are useless, you have to detach the glove and when attachments are on the infrared sensor on remote is blocked. The remote docking station is a good idea poorly executed, as its usb powered the Wii has to be switched on for the remotes to charge, although a mains usb charger (for mobiles) can be used and negates the necessity for the Wii to be switched on when charging. The Wii doesn't come with HD component cables but they are worth the extra dosh if your tv has the relevant connections. You've gotta get Rayman raving rabbids game it is absolutely nuts. Overall the Wii is excellent, and puts the fun back into games consoles. You have just gotta get one when they become available again!

Welcome Jason, Mine averages around 25mpg :lol: , the only thing I could add is if/when clutch needs changing make sure the slave cylinder is done at same time.

Surely that should be England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland aren't in europe. :rolleyes:

why oh why weren't the discs encrypted, it's not hard to do and if they did fall into the wrong hands then a casual attempt at looking at the info would fail, then theres the goverment intranet, why couldn't this be used. If I did this with a clients data I could have the arse sued off me, so I encrypt the disc/media and then encrypt the data on that media and when it's no longer needed it gets securely wiped. Lets just hope that whoever finds/has these discs doesn't know what they are and/or doesn't realise the criminal value they hold. As for pointing the finger, this could've happened under any goverment and has more to do with the departmental managers and the infrastructure. Facilities for secure data transfer of this kind whether physical (delivering cds) or over the ether, should've been in the IT contracters remit. imo of course

:D :16: :16: LMFAO Mrs Madbaz has just s*** herself, gonna try the kids now...

It's looking for the parrot that sends you blind :rolleyes:

LETS START ONE, The Low Fuel Tax Party.... Mumof4 as party leader/PM Seatkid as chancellor Nikpv as education minister Gregers as the party whip (or is that whipped) Big Kev in charge of womens affairs etc...etc......

The module I fitted added remote c/l to the existing manual operation and has its own frequencies/coding, as for working with existing/OE remote c/l there will be something on ebay, I guess, but not the model I or others have fitted.

I heard somewhere its because it can't have thatcham security status (don't know which level) with quarterlites that open. Maybe worth looking at if your insurance company thinks its thatcham approved and retro-fitting switches invalidates it. (it could be a good get out of paying up clause for your ins co)

The unlock/lock wires, un/lock the doors, but a prolonged signal on these wires activates the power window modules so I guess and I stress guess that these are your triggers, the Green wire I don't have a clue about, sorry.

Bigmac, The wires should be the same colours As your CLM should be under the seat then that may be easiest option, and the range should be ok, mine does about 30 metres. As for the global close, I don't know, I think somebody posted that their global worked on ke60 model. Have fun :14:

That was just an episode of the simpsons, or was it a real story that the Simpsons stole the idea off??? Chris It was a story the simpsons copied.

Not sure if this counts as a super/hyper car I suppose it does

WON'T WORK, nice thought though Supermarkets are BP/Esso's biggest customers, 69p a litre I don't think so, the chancellors take is about that much. And as for sending me an unsolicited email, you'll get it back with a pressie!!! ;) :16:

A kid did something like that in the states a few years ago using a well and a walkie talkie, caused hell of a commotion with the rescue services while all the time he was hiding nearby.

LMFAO

Keep AVG, You'd have to remove AVG via add remove programs in control panel first, as having 2 antivirus programs running can cause problems, a simplistic way of putting it is that they cancel each other out.

I had a Sky broadband customer last December who was supposed to have gone active on the 3rd October and he still wasn't connected in March, He'd BT out at his expense checking lines inside house, then me to check his pc. BT wouldn't deal with me, I had to go thru Sky and after being transferred round the world 7 times they were bloody adament he was active, ended up giving him consumer directs number as he was paying for goods and services not received . Since BT re-organised and formed BT Openreach (they deal with lines and exchanges) broadband connections have gone tits up and their own customers don't seem to get preferential treatment. You used to be able to call the exchange direct and someone would physically check, but now you have to go thru the providers call centre and if their computer says yes then thats that. I think they call this progress.

Kaspersky is one you buy, they have a free trial and a free online scanner here AVG has always beaten Norton hands down with heuristic analysis and detection of trojans, the problem with AVG is that its not as user friendly as the big names. The problem with reviews of antivirus is they become out of date as soon as a program update is released (not to be confused with virus definition updates). ICSA labs is possibly the best place to review antivirus as they are and always have been the leading authority on testing and certifying antivirus solutions, ps they do antispam, antispyware and firewall testing as well. Their website is a little long winded but is quite comprehensive. I agree with Big Kev, no-one connected to the interweb should be without at least antivirus, anti spyware and a firewall (preferably hardware like in some routers) XP/Vista comes with a basic firewall and it should be enabled by default.

Norton still is bloatware and it still slows systems down significantly, All the leading antivirus programs usually do their job but at the moment Kapersky has the fullest feature set (apart from a startup registry scan, but none of the others do this either) and is probably the best out there for the average joe. Personally I use AVG pro and have done for many years and even though the latest version hasn't got West Coast Labs certification (neither has Norton) it still does a robust job and is the best VFM, and Grisoft (owned by Sophos, arguably the best in the world) because of AVG free are usually first off the mark at detecting and finding fixes for new threats. Spybot S&D is used for the other stuff, and I use a Linux Smoothwall firewall (free if you've an old pc).

Sorry about the relay Bigmac, but glad got to the problem, note to self, check the obvious however unlikely first :ph34r:

Avoid Mr Clutch and some of the other fast fit outfits. Maybe worth changing slave cylinder at the same time.

I need to lie down, brain hurting, up at 5.30 tomorrow, will have a look at mine in afternoon 2 c if i can replicate fault.

Oh bugger, I'm lost on this now, when you've got chance could you take a door switch apart and connect the brown/yellow wire to ground, lights should come on (if they don't then it's another part of circuit eliminated), also if you do the same with the black/white wire the door ajar warning should work (or not)? do this on drivers door and one of the other doors.

Just thinking out loud.... Boot is on a separate circuit and doesn't operate overhead interior lights Door switches go to ground ie when switch is closed (door open) circuit is complete therefore all 4 switches would have to be faulty and this is unlikely. as is wiring in door pillar coming adrift. And after studying Hayne and TIS for a long while I just don't know? Haynes makes reference to fuses 53 and 55 also to the accessory delay relay and delayed interior light relay, but I don't know where these are (part of c/l module? im sure theres a click from under seat when interior lights time out. iirc there are some fuses & relays behind binnacle near ecu which is where (TIS says) the relevant connectors should be) and failure of these relays or fuses shouldn't let the boot lights come on. TIS is just too simplefied, or theres a lot missing! Can't be a loose earth, or can it? BigMac does your clock work ok? Do the lights come on if you switch them on? Do you have any courtesy lights ie footwells or door entry? do they come on when boot is opened? Does the glove box light work?