Vanbursta

Buzz buzz buzz, do I get a point and the last 12 seconds of the subject for pointing out deviation :-) Come on guys leave MO4 alone, lots of topics have deviation in them!

Yes you are correct, but I did get a lifetime warranty including any further water ingress (as I has the water problem fixed and could prove it) and full support if needed (I did need it as it happens and they were excellent).

I got it for

I do agree that it's VERY quiet, but once you notice it, it will drive you nuts! They all do it, even my previous Scorpio did it, so does my mates Galaxy and even my own Galaxy, people don't generally notice it, but like I said once you do hear it......................

Yes but just think of the fun you will have fixing it all, then when it's all done and you decide you've had enough and sell it, the next owner thinks "brilliant car this - absolutely nothing wrong with it" :-) I know it feels bad but you will really enjoy the car once you have everything sorted, at least there are people on here who can help, so you are not alone with your troubles! Good Luck

You're welcome, if you get stuck just shout, I am sure someone on here has the answer - I would be lost without this site!

Here, this may be of some assistance to you. Enjoy:- Galaxy_Drive_Belt.pdf

Yes it's knackered, mine went the same way. Look VERY carefully in the well under the seat and you may see signs of a "tide mark" where the water has been sitting. DONT buy one from Ford they are WAY to expensive, I bought my NEW one from Lynx Automotive in Nottingham (they supply only NEW units not recon and I am nothing to do with them, they just provided exellent service), Tel 01949 836362. They also come up on eBay occassionaly, although I would worry about using a unit pulled from a scrap car as it might have the same, or other faults. When you refit it you will need to get Ford to reprogram it by plugging into WDS or your remote locking won't work, also when I did mine I drilled a hole in the floor and put an aerial cable grommit in it so if it does get flooded again the water will be able to drain and as a last measure I raised the control box up off the floor by mounting it on plastic stalks as per the photo (well actually they are Rawlplug wall fixings but who cares as long as they do the job!) Good luck with it anyway. This is the new drain hole, the blue stuff is paint that I used to coat the bare metal:- And these are the "legs" I stood the unit on, I epoxied them to the floor and used expanding plastic rivets to mount the unit to them using the original mounting holes, looks a bit flimsy but in reality is steady as a rock now the epoxy has set:- You can just see the plastic expanding rivets if you follow the plastic plug up to the top left of the photo.

The V6 is chain driven, but the chains are at the REAR of the engine, whilst the water pump is at the front, it is driven by the auxilary drive belt and is easy to remove. The full instructions are attached below, should be easily done within a day. Galaxy_V6_Water_pump.pdf

I think so, as far as I am aware the supplying garage is subject to the sale of goods act and unless they specificaly told you it didn't work in the first place they are obliged to repair it (or refund the purchase price and give your old car back) as by implication you were led to believe it was working. - Go for it, the aircon is a common fault with the Galaxy so get it fixed whilst they are paying for it as it can be very expensive. Welcom to the forum and the best of luck with the aircon / garage.

No - no complicted procedure, just unbolt the hinge pins and lift the door off, official procedure is as below:- Galaxy_Door_removal.pdf The hinge pin stays with the door (or the mounting can't remember which but you DON'T remove the hinge pins), you do need the hex driver that fits the hinge locking pins though, about

Its a fan inside the CC unit, it draws in air and passes it over a sensor so the CC knows the internal temp of the car, nothing to worry about and perfectly normal, if you look closely at the CC panel you will see a small grille (I think it's on the top left), that's the grille that the fan sits behind. You can take it apart and clean the fan, BUT it is very fiddly and you have to be extremely careful not to break any of the clips holding the CC cover together.

I had to remove the N/S rear panel recently and I discovered that my GAl has a booster heater fitted, trouble is I don't have any controls to turn it up/down with, if the front heater is on MAX, the rear heater blows out really hot air at gale force 9, but there doesn't seem to be any individual controls for it, the owners manual mentions 4 buttons on the clock, 2 of which are for setting the clock and the other 2 of which are for the booster heater, but my clock only has 2 buttons, can someone please tell me what should be fitted to control the rear heater and where? the car has climate BTW.

Errmm maybe I'm wrong but I thought the BOOSTER heater was the one fitted to the cars cooling system, and the AUXILARY heater was an extra heater that runs on diesel (and hence is only fitted to diesels), or am I incorrect?

Heres your answer:- Tacho_fluctuates.pdf

How long have you had the car, and was it doing it when you got it?

Did you refit the connector to the MAF (you have to remove it to get the engine cover off)

Yeah but.... The wheel nuts are supposed to be put on with 140nm or approx 125 ft/lb thats quite tight and would probably shatter the socket, you might get away with it but it would be very dangerous!

On mine you can hear a definate click as the clutch engages, also you would know if the clutch was operating correctly by looking at the centre of the compressor pully, if it is turnign then the clutch is working and it may be a snapped shaft, but if it isn't turning then the clutch is naff OR there is no current / return getting to / from it. If there is current then it MUST be the clutch. I think I would take it to a specialist and pay a diagnostic fee as it would be a lot cheaper than replacing the wrong part.

Both stands and ramps have their pros and cons. Axle stands generally spread the contact weight over a small area and can therefore "dig in" to the surface they are standing on, too much dig in on any one of the three contact points could therefore cause instability, they could also collapse if under rated for the job. Ramps can be difficult to get on and can cause tyre damage if they are not wide enough to take the tyres, they can also tip if not absolutely straight and are even more prone to collapse than axle stands as the weight distribution becomes a complex issue. In general either are safe provided they are of good construction, the correct weight tollerance and used sensibly, you do hear of accidents using both but these normally only happen when someone does something silly like running the car in gear on axle stands!

Yes the ECU uses the temp switch to signal the relay to kick in. You get voltage when you disconnect it because the ECU can't get an accurate reading so switches to LOS for that part of the circuit.

I am FAIRLY certain that if you only have the 2 connectors you don't have an alarm. Maybe someone else will put me right but I am also sure that the alarm was an option on anything but the Ghia, which had it as standard. I can help you with the proper Ford wiring diagrams (if you want them) but they don't include a circuit map or component list for the control box.

It's most likely to be the bendix, what happens is that the dust from the clutch / flywheel gets stuck on the sliding cog and then causes the starter to screech as it is thrown forward with the momentum, best way to cure it is to take the starter off and clean the bendix / shaft with petrol then use a SMALL amount of silicone grease on the shaft, if there is any wear in the shaft you have to replace the whole motor (or be prepared to go through the whole procedure once evry 6 months or so). Also it doesn't happen as much with an automatic as there is much less dirt in the bellhousing (although wear can cause the same thing even on an auto).

Those do the job really well. Kind of worrying that they are freely available for sale though, as anybody could buy one and nick your wheels, kind of defeats the object of the locking wheel nuts!

The test lamp won't light unless the glowplugs are active (IE the engine is stone cold) as there is no voltage supplied when hot, if you connect the lead to the battery negative and the test lamp to the glowplugs when cold, as soon as you turn the ignition on the lamp should light. There should NOT be any bubbles in the fuel supply, this indicates a leak somewhere in the system, most likely pre pump as if it was after pump you would be using lots of diesel. Had the same happen on a diesel with the pump in tank once it turned out the feed tube had become detached so it couldn't pick up fuel when nearly empty. Basically get under the car and thoroughly inspect all pipes, especially where there are joins between components and turns in the pipework.