Vanbursta

Yes you got it, the tailgate loom, the wiring loom to each of the doors where they pass through the rubber boots, cruise control - all common faults along with inopperative central locking / alarms, blocked scuttle drains, broken aircon, siezed wipers, all common problems. Nice cars once everything is fixed though. I had virtually the same problem with tailgate loom - several wires broken, a previous owner had used selotape and connector blocks to repair the broken wires in my case.

Could you post full details of your car please?

Glad you got it sorted - just wanted to be the 100th reply really LOL

Yup I got it wrong, see my other post BAD BAD VIBRATIONS

I have checked tranny / engine mounts and all seem fine. There is a little bit of play in the steady bar but nothing too serious. I changed the transmission fluid on Friday and there was about 800ml too much in there, I am not sure if this could be anything to do with it. Also I went to Frauds to ask if they had the right autobox fluid and they tried to sell me Dexron 111, despite the fact that TIS says don't use it!! I eventually got 4litres of the correct (I hope) orange stuff from the local VW dealer, only problem is that when I drained the old stuff it was red and I am sure it was dexron 111 ! so now of course it is mixed, does anyone know how to empty the whole lot including the torque convertor ? and if the VW stuff (G05) is the correct stuff, or even if Dexron 111 isn't the right stuff. Most worrying of all is that I spoke to the master tech at the local frauds, who said they always use Dexron 111 as it's all they could get despite what it says in TIS!

You can buy the connectors seperately, BUT you need to cut off the old one, crimp the new one on and then insert the connector into the connector block. Most competent auto electicians can supply them. It is far easier and much quicker to take them out of a scrap car, cut the loom about 5 inches away from the connector and splice them into the existing loom.

So what happens if you drive during the day? :angry:

Mmmm reading through the symptoms and having assessed the evidence presented in a professional and unbiased way, I feel I can almost certainly state (well with a probability in excess of 97% plus or minus 97%) and in consideration of the outstanding climate, with due consideration for the propsals submitted this far, by the other knowledgable members of this forum, that not withstanding a further incorrect, or indeed correct disagnosis by person or persons unknow and finally with due care and consideration, that it is almost certain that the fault could have been correctly diagnosed as a SLIPPING CLUTCH and if it is proven to be elsewise, could also be another fault :D :D :D PS That's 32 Posts NOW :angry: :D :blink: PPS I am thinking of getting a job as a solicitor - what do you think? :D :( :(

Welcome to the forum. The low pessure connector is behind the drivers side indicator, undo the single screw on top of the indicator and pull it forward out of it's mounting, the low pressure connector is in the hole where the indicator fits. A word of warning though, I topped mine up with the Halfords stuff and it ripped the rubber seal on the connector (apparently quite a lot of people have had the same problem as the connector on the refill is too big for the low pressure connector), it might be better to get it topped up professionaly although some people seem to have got away with it. Also I am about to document the permanent repair of the tailgate loom which should cost less than a tenner all in.

Help please before I take a big hammer to my Galaxy! (Yes I am tempted), my Gal has developed a really bad vibration between 1500 and 1800 rpm, it happens in all gears. So far I have had, new wheel rims, new tyres, new coil pack, new leads, new CV joints (all 4), wheel balancing (twice), I am about to change the auto box fluid, and a new engine steady bar. I can get out of the vibration by accelerating hard if going downhill, going uphill I have to let the accelerator off until it stops. Seems to be worse under load (ie going up hill etc), sometimes it is really bad and it feels like the car is going to shake apart. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated as I have run out of both.

Thanks Steve, aquired and fitted - didn't cure my problem though!

Sorry to be off topic, did you get your door wiring fixed MO4?

don't want to worry you guys but I just had mine professionally recharged and it took 0.950kg including 10g oil - and it's the single type, I thought it was wrong so I checked the plate and it is correct (the manual and TIS state 0.775kg + - 10% BTW and they are wrong according to Ford technical hotline). The reason I had to have it done was that the Halfords can ruined my low pressure valve (ripped the rubber on top) which seems to be a common problem.

Does anyone know of any factor or dealer that is able to get inner CV joints at the moment. I have tried everywhere and no one has got any in stock, the only solution I have at the minute is to send offf both driveshafts for complete recon, I don't mind doing that but I need the car for the next week.

Almost certainly master cylinder seals, try applying the brakes very quickly. If they then work it is the seals.

OK MO4 got the part you are refering to now, It doesn't matter too much if you only broke 1, it will still fit and tighten up, I did exactly the same and I bet the reason it won't go back in is because the broken part of the clip is stuck inside the open end of the connector where it goes into the door pillar, if you look closely you will see a small rectangle of plastic that came off the end, dig it out with small pliers or a small screwdriver, then you will be able to refit the connector into the door pillar. Actually I broke one on each rear door and could not get either to go back in until I saw the little bit of plastic that had snapped off inside, in both cases once I removed the plastic bit the connectors went together OK. Also if you look at the connector you will see 2 square edges (inside the connector that goes to the door pillar on the other side of the end that the wires are attached too) make sure these line up with the recesses in the door pillar connector.

No problem, thanks for letting me know.

I simply meant there are several different bulbs that will physically fit, but not all of them will work, I know of 7 different bulbs that look identical (or similar) but there is only 1 type that will fit and work. By way of example I have photographed the 4 (out of the 7) I have as spares. Note that some are similar, but they are not interchangable.

Are you talkiing about the yellow clips that hold the door card on or something else?

Thanks Guys, it's nice to know the hard work (and it is hard work) is appreciated. I will do one for the tailgate loom shortly, but to be honest I started documenting at 10.00 this morning and have only just finished - I did the soldering guide after I finished this one, and I've just about had it for today so it will have to be later (6:00 pm now). I didn't mean to upset anyone nor cause any offence with suggesting trying to get different coloured wiring, any type or colour of wire will do as long as it can take the current, I was just thinking ahead to when a fault occurs and somebody needs to make a diagnosis, easier if the wirings the same colour. The flexible wiring is a better long term solution but I would say it would be a good idea to keep the colour/number chart with the owners manual.

Did you have to have the centre bearing replaced as well? and can I ask you if you got it done at a garage roughly what they charged to change them(I don't want to offend you so please feel free to ignore this question if you want to), I have 2 new (well recon) driveshafts and whilst I could fit them, I am wondering if it might be easier for me to pay a local garage (cold weather etc), also if you did do it yourself did you have to remove the lower ball joint or did you get away with just unbolting the inner joint and then swinging the D/S out of the way? Thanks

Soldering Instruction Guide, Joining and splicing properly This document is available as a PDF file for downloading here:- Soldering_Instruction_Guide.pdf This is a basic beginners guide, I know there

Galaxy Door boot Wiring Inspection / Repair Please feel free to comment if you can think of any additions or improvements to these instructions, they are done for the benefit of all members of the site and I am happy to consider all suggestions. This complete document can be downloaded in PDF form here:- Galaxy_Door_boot_Wiring_Inspection.pdf Difficulty rating 2 NOTE by request I have started using a difficult rating as requested, the key is:- 1)Very easy any body can do it. 2) Still easy but a bit more skill required. 3) Moderate difficulty, you should still be OK as long as you have some mechanical ability. 4) Getting really serious now, requires special tools and in depth knowledge, advanced procedure. 5) Either you need to be a fully competent mechanic. Or you need help from someone else who is. Parts List:- NONE REQUIRED Tools Needed A) Soldering Iron Stand (With Sponge

Thanks for the reply Checked the engine steady bar thingy and all is well, there is virtually no movement at all. At the moment I think it may be driveshafts, I really just wanted to know if anyone has fitted them and if it has cured the same (or similar) problem. Anadin DOC says I am rock steady and it's the rest of the world thats vibrating :-)

Hi Phillip, Could be a badly soldered pin on the board (unlikely as it happens with both) or more likely the wrong type of bulb has been fitted, or the correct bulb has been fitted but the contacts on the bulbs base are not making good contact with the circuit board. I had the same when I changed the bulb (both bulbs looked identical) but it was only on close inspection I realised that the contacts on the bulb base were in different positions, a quick trip to Ford to get the proper bulb and all was sorted, I compared the correct bulb with all those available in the local motor factors and NONE were the same contact wise as the bulb Ford supplied.