Vanbursta

Can someone please tell me if it's possible to set indicators to flash on remote lock on a MK1 Gal with Vag Com, if it is can someone tell me exactly how please. Thanks all

There you go Steve - good luck

Snap!! Why did you need to remove your dash VR6? The problem with losing your contact lens or glasses is that you can't see to look for them until you have found them!!!

Here you go Rear Bumper Removal Galaxy_Rear_Bumper_removal.pdf Front Bumper Removal Galaxy_Front_Bumper_removal.pdf

My CC panel has flashed ever since I bought the car, aircon has always worked fine and I have never had any trouble with it. Recently I had to remove the dash panel and in so doing I had to disconnect the passenger airbag, I started the car without the airbag connected and then the airbag light wouldn't go out even when I had replaced the airbag. I realised this may have been due to a stored fault code so I asked a friend with a garage to hook it up to the diagnostic machine and clear the code for me. It was then I discovered that the CC had a stored fault code which was "low pressure switch activated", I asked him to delete the stored code (I had had the aircon regassed nearly a year ago) and hey presto the CC panel has not flashed since. The point is that the CC panel stores any fault codes and will continue to flash even when the fault has been cleared unless the diagnostic fault is deleted, so make sure they do this or it will be flashing forever.

Hi Steve Yes I had exactly the same problem, I too checked the voltage at the steering column and the pump, the pump worked fine on the bench, there are 3 connections, one goes to earth one to the pump and the other to a relay in the pump, if you connect 12v across negative and the pump feed the pump should work, 12v across the negative and the relay connection and you should hear the relay in the pump click, no voltage to the switch connector at any time though. I had exactly the same symptoms as you and it was the control unit. TIS mentions 12v at the steering column end, but even with a working unit this is not the case, none of the terminals is energised until you reach over 28mph. Don't take any notice of the TIS when it tells you to remove the dash panel either, you don't need to do this as if you remove the radio, climate control panel and the cubby box, you can then remove the finishing panel and then the panel that holds the switches in, once you have done this you can remove the single philips screw holding the CC unit in place, I think you have to remove the passenger side lower trim and gloveboxas well if I remember in order to move the CC unit out from behind the dash. I bought my CC unit brand new from GBM parts in Kings Lyne for

LOL OK keep us informed mate.

What you thinking about as a replacement Anadin?

One thing that might be worth bearing in mind is that if there is a fault detected then the airbag computer keeps a record in memory and will keep giving the warning light until it's erased (VAG COM can do it), so even after you fix it you will probably still get the warning light until it's reset.

Well I suppose that would be really annoying! I was lucky in that I could smell the hot coolant and it wasn't leaking from anywhere else, also the coolant was dripping out of the aircon drain which kind of gave the game away. I'm glad I won't (or at least shouldn't) have to do it again during my time with the car though.

I was just quoting from the owners guide, it says mid way between MIN and MAX. I have kept all my other cars dead on max. After a long run it takes ages for the oil to settle in the Galaxy, no idea why I guess it's the engine design, that's perhaps why the owners manual says between each mark. I had a friend once who was an apprentice mechanic, he was left to do an oil change and was told to refill it with new oil which he duly did, it was not for some hours afterwards that it was discovered the reason the engine wouldn't turn over was that he had literally done as he was told and filled it with oil, thereby creating an hydraulic lock!

No you don't need to but DON'T try to remove the heater housing as described in the TIS, just pull it forward on it's mounts enough to get the matrix out. Basically the procedure is:- Oh one really good tip, to make the trim removal really easy buy yourself a gasket scraper, the wide head means you don't mark anything when taking it apart and the narrow tip means you can get it in the tight gaps. Outside the car DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NOW! - Very important as you need to remove an airbag later. 1) Remove the engine cover 2) Remove wipers 3) Remove wiper motor 4) Remove pollen filter 5) Remove Pollen filter housing 6) Remove alarm horn and mounting bracket 7) Remove the 2 13mm bolts to the upper left of the alarm horn 8) Undo the upper heatshield mounting bolts 8) Undo the 4 heater mounting nuts 9) Undo the dash panel retaining nuts, one of them is the horn mounting as well. Inside the car 10) Remove all 3 air vents 10a) Remove the lightswitch 11) Remove the radio 12) Remove the heater controls 13) Remove the CD holder box 14) Remove the instrument panel surround 14a) Remove the instrument cluster (DON'T lay it on its back KEEP IT UPRIGHT) 15) Remove the sunlight sensor 16) Remove both tweeters 17) Remove lower A pillar trim 18) Lower the steering wheel by removing the adjustment bolt and plates 19) Remove the lower drivers side dash 20) Remove the lower passenger side dash 21) Remove the passenger airbag 21a) Remove the airbag mounting bracket 22) Remove the console around the gearstick 23) Remove the dash trim above the gearstick console 24) Remove the upper crash padding (the dashboard) 25) Remove the mountings for the strengthener bar (don't remove it completely) 26) Pull the heater back toward the rear of the car as far as you can 27) Make 2 cuts in the soundproofing material above the heater matrix inlet pipes 28) Undo the matrix and withdraw it from the car 29) Have several pints to calm your nerves and remember you CAN put it all back together! Looks complicated but is easy if you don't try to rush, if you want print outs of the relevant TIS sections please ask. At the very least take photos and or keep notes of what goes where. I was very lucky as I managed to get all the outside stuff done before it rained. If you get stuck feel free to shout.

MO4, the heatshield was the one high up on the bulkhead on the drivers side, it's held on with 2 ten mm nuts and is a swine to manouver out of position, if it's a different heatshield let me know and I will have a look for you. Dipsomaniac, They might quote 6.5 hours, but I would be very surprised if anyone could manage it (then again maybe I was just slow!), still if autodata quotes that then thats what the garage should charge, if they do snatch their hands off! The worse nuts (there are no screws or bolts) were the one nearest the drivers side, behind the overflow container, its too tight to get a deep socket in and you need a cranked 10mm spanner to get to it, you have to do it by feel as you cant see it, 2 of the other ones were behind brake lines and aircon pipes but you can get to them with a flexible adapter, and the worst of all is the final one behind the heatshield up high on the drivers side, its about 2 feet from the drivers side inner wing and the Ford TIS doesn't mention it, also when you do it you will have to remove the strenghtening bar behind the crash pad, I found it much easier to undo the adjustable lever for the steering wheel and push the wheel down on the spring (you'll see what I mean when you get to it), also if you have aircon you can only pull the heater back about 2 inches as the pipes going into the back of the heater prevent any further movement, you can get round this by trimming the sound deadening pad where the heater matrix pipes go which gives you just enough room to get the matrix in / out. Gooner52, I know what you mean, they call me Granada steve round here as I seem to know more than Fords about them, I used to specialise in them, nice cars in their day and the 24v Cosworth should of come with a safety warning! Steve S, I think ours are the only 2 ultimas on here, so yours is the same :-) :-) Weird thing is that the coincidences don't end there, my real name is also Steve and my surname begins with S, so we have the same cars, and the same initials - spooky! Anadin, Don't think I would of smashed it over his head, but it might of made an interesting report when he reported to casualty to have it removed !!!!

quote from the owners manual "under no circumstances fill the engine oil above the MAX mark, this will lead to damage to the catalytic converter and is NOT covered by warranty" It also says so on the oil filler cap. Get the excess drained out without delay or you could face a BIG bill, best is mid way between the empty and full mark on the dipstick.

Thanks all. Yeah in the photo you can only see what had to be removed INSIDE the car, in addition you also have to remove EVERYTHING from the scuttle on the engine side, wipers, pollen filter, polen filter frame, alarm horn, et all. Worse still there are 4 bolts holding the heater to the bulkhead, 2 of which are completely inaccessible and 1 of which is hidden behind a heatshield (which also has to be removed) - never again. Why don't the manufacturers put in an access panel or anything to make it easier. I was going to document it, but I took nearly 100 photos before I gave up on the idea, it would have taken pages to write it all up. All I can suggest if your Gal needs it doing is to accept the garages quote and let them do it, but be ready for a hefty labour bill as it took me about 21 hours from start to finish - goodness know how much longer it would of taken if I kept stopping for more photos! Good news is I didn't have anything left (no stray screws or anything) and I managed to do it without breaking anything (must be a record!) If you look at the photo it's interesting to see how much of the space available is taken up by the heater - its massive! nearly 3/4 of the available space.

Welcome to the forum, the Galaxy will probably drive you mad just like it has all of us, but we love em!

Me: You want HOW MUCH to change a heater matrix Garage: Well it's a big job Me: Never mind I'll do it myself. Just finished it and it was a complete b%$&*d Lesson learnt, next time let the garage do it, it's worth every penny! Took 3 ENTIRE DAYS from start to finish!!

It doesn't look anything like mine, on mine you can ONLY see it from below the car, it looks like a dipstick tube but is actually a red filler cap, with mine the red cap snaps off and then you pull the plug up and out (you need a new red cap afterwards), I have attached the full Ford procedure here for you to look at. Note the Ford spec for the oil which is NO 52162 whereas VWs is GO 5 (they are the same stuff though) Autobox_Oil_Change.pdf

Just changed the autobox fluid in mine and I used the the same GO5 as you have just bought. Someone had used TQF in mine and I had a bad vibration at 1500 - 2000 rpm, the GO5 is an orangey colour and the box is MUCH better now, I need to do it a couple more times to completely flush out the red TQF. But yes its the right stuff, despite Ford trying to tell me that Dexron III will do. It also states in Fords TIS "do not use normal TQF as the frictional properties are different" and I can confirm the car is MUCH smoother and hardly any judder now.

Yeah, but doesn't it feel satisfying once you get rid of something that's bugged you like that!

True, but when it works in 20 seconds you'd be peeling your face off the rear windscreen in the Aston!! I keep asking father christmas....... Went on a trip to their factory once, facsinating stuff.

On mine you open the tailgate, depress the lugs (one on each side of the light) and pull the cover off backwards. The bulbs are 21w capless.

Me too, I cut a 2 1/2 ton cement mixer (with 1/2 inch cast iron bowl) into pieces about 4 inches square, took 4 days and 7 blades, but it was bloody good fun as I had been wanting rid of the thing for ages! - Still got a piece as a memento - have a look!

Your pulling power would be MUCH greater with an Aston DB9 !! <_< :o

You could always weld a small bar to it and then use it as a lever to break the seal, or weld on another nut head, or just grind it off. Best suggestion yet though is to cut a slot in it and use a hammer and cold chisel to undo it. Obviously you will need a new bolt though! Bottom ball joint is held to the carrier by rivets and you can buy a new one that bolts on, so don't be afraid to grind it off if needed.