Vanbursta

Hi all My Gal has developed a REALLY bad vibration between 1500 and 2000 rpm, this happens in all gears and is MUCH worse if I try to accelerate under load (IE when going uphill etc) it doesn't happen when going downhill and dissappears completely after 2000 rpm. It's not a misfire as I have changed all leads, plugs and even the coil pack (it didn't make any difference), I can feel the vibration through the steering wheel and its like a regular "thrumming", the only thing I can find wrong is that both inner driveshaft gaiters were split, I have now replaced them and refilled with the correct amount of grease. The only other thing is that the car doesn't do it until it gets warm, not even a hint of it when cold. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!! The local Ford garage don't want to know (too old for us sir!)

I can show you how to do a proper electrically safe repair, I would come and do it for you but you are a LONG way from me (Cambridgeshire), if you are interested I can post a list of things you need to buy to repair it properly and I can take some pics for you - just let me know. Best of luck either way.

My wifes fat AND looks like and old chip pan! ;) :)

It is very tight but you should be able to pull the check strap out of it's housing in the door slightly, it is tight so that your door doesn't open too hard if it gets caught in the wind. Unless you have removed it and replaced it incorrectly you should be able to get a screwdriver in the hole at the end of it (where the bolt goes) and lever it out a bit, You didn't do anything silly like put a cable tie around it by any chance? Whatever you do WATCH YOUR FINGERS, if it snaps back quickly you could end up going to casualty with a door attached to your digits!

I think this TDI_Rad_removal.pdf might help. Enjoy

I bet they try! It took all of about 45 seconds to do mine and cure a problem I had had for 3 months (not being able to program remote key) Best of luck

The TIS doesn't work quite like you want, the diagrams are split into modules (like central locking, illumination etc) to get the diagrams for everything in the door I would have to print probably 20-30 wiring diagrams, I am willing to do so but it will take a considerable amount of time, and by the time I have finished you should have got your copy of TIS. Also can you please give details of your Gal IE what year, what model etc. (you might want to consider putting these into your sig - it makes it easier for everyone to help you)

It won't be the battery tray bolts, I have to admit that I made the mistake of undoing them earlier this year (I wasn't aware at the time that the engine mount was connected to them) and the engine literaly dropped out, it only fell about 2 inches but I had to jack it back into position to do the bolts up again, no problem with the gaiters then or since. I tend to agree that it's cheap aftermarket gaiters, I did mine twice this year already and eventually bought the proper ford ones, more expensive but have lasted a lot longer so far.

Yes but.... remembering what has been passed on means that YOU are now knowledgable :-) PS wanna do mine? You do the work I'll take the pics n do the writeup LOL

Right I will try to run through this as briefly as I can. WDS is Ford electronic diagnostic system, its a kind of computer that plugs into the socket behind the front ashtray, the connector looks similar to a scart lead. If you change the C/L control box (its a black box that sits in the well under the passenger seat) it needs to be re - initiallised (or programmed) by Ford. If it isn't done everything will work, interior lights c/l etc BUT you won't be able to program the remote key fob, this is because it is supplied with a basic default set of operating peramiters (similar to LOS Limited Operation Strategy OR limp home mode), which do not include remote locking / unlocking, the unit is capable of it but it doesn't know the car has got it. I had a 3 month argument with my local dealers who INSISTED that the box did not need to be programmed, their master tech even told me that "we just bung em in and they work" and that they had "never had to program one before", in the end I made a bet with the service manager, if I was wrong I said I would pay IN FULL for the time and connecting to WDS (which would of amounted to 90 quid ish) but if I was right then I would pay nothing. As soon as the dealer connected my car to WDS it showed "unit unprogrammed - program now?" on screen, the technician pushed the yes button and I was then able to get the unit to go into programming mode with the 3 turns of the key in the lock as per the manual. It was a double result for me because not only did I get it done for free, they had to contact everybody else who had it changed and do theirs too. I tried 7 different dealers within a 75 mile radius and not one of them knew anything about programing the unit (good job WDS does it automatically), you just have to convince them to connect the car to WDS by any means! - bribary, blackmail, shotgun etc :-) It was not possible to do it with VAG COM as it works slightly differently and you would need to manually input the code, the only way to get the correct code is to plug into WDS which "dials home" and compares the cars ECU settings to the settings it left the factory with. Essentially you are correct in that the unit needs to be "turned on" when refitted. Hope this helps, I have tried to be as concise as possible.

I suspect the C/L control box has been replaced at some time, if it hasn't been reprogrammed by WDS you will NEVER get it to work. (the LED will never stay illuminated), I have personal experience of this and I can tell you that when you take the car in they will tell you it doesn't need programming, I can assure you it does, it's just that no Fraud mechanic has ever done it/heard of it before.

Galaxy V6 Thermostat Housing Dismantle This entire document is available for download here:- Galaxy_V6_Thermostat_Housing_Dismantle.pdf Difficulty rating 1 NOTE by request I have started using a difficult rating as requested, the key is:- 1)Very easy any body can do it. 2) Still easy but a bit more skill required. 3) Moderate difficulty, you should still be OK as long as you have some mechanical ability. 4) Getting really serious now, requires special tools and in depth knowledge, advanced procedure. 5) Either you need to be a fully competent mechanic. Or you need help from someone else who is. Parts List:- A) Thermostat Housing Ford Finis Number 1032250 Approx cost

Yes I will help, I had the same problem and it drove me bonkers!

Thanks Guys, nice to know the effort is appreciated. More to come soon (as long as no one objects).

Thanks V

Yes, you remove the rear pillar trim and the tailgate upper trim, cut the wires and splice in a new section in between. I went to a local autosound place and bought 1 metre of 11 different coloured wires (6 are thin and 6 are thick) for the sum of a fiver, then spent a relaxing afternoon soldering and splicing the new wires in. Do one end, feed the new wires through the new boot / bodywork, then solder the other end. easy!

This whole document can be downloaded here Galaxy_V6_Thermostat_replacement.pdf in PDF format Galaxy V6 Thermostat replacement. Difficulty rating 3 NOTE by request I have started using a difficult rating as requested, the key is:- 1)Very easy any body can do it. 2) Still easy but a bit more skill required. 3) Moderate difficulty, you should still be OK as long as you have some mechanical ability. 4) Getting really serious now, requires special tools and in depth knowledge, advanced procedure. 5) Either you need to be a fully competent mechanic. Or you need help from someone else who is. Caution Antifreeze is poisonous, take great care when handling it and wash your hands thoroughly, better still wear some rubber gloves. Keep antifreeze away from children, pets etc. For some reason they seem to love it! Drain the old antifreeze into a large bowl and dispose of it properly, it is illegal to let it drain onto the ground or to tip it down the drain, put it into an old sealable container and dispose of it at your local tip. When you remove the thermostat you will drain a large proportion of the vehicles coolant, it might be worthwhile considering flushing out the system and replacing the antifreeze at the same time. In hard water areas it is better to mix your antifreeze with distilled water, buy 5 litres of antifreeze and 5 litres of distilled water. Only Ford dealers sell the proper stuff (it

My main concern would be the fact that you can 'lock up' - is your ABS not working? Yes the ABS is working, although I seem to recall that not all Gals come with it. I meant lock up as in the wheels lock and the ABS cuts in, but the car still stops very quickly.

Yep they have issued a TSB about using 5w 40 in all petrol engines (with the exception of a couple) to address "enviromental concerns", but the engine was originaly designed to use 10w 40 as per the owners manual and having tried both I will be sticking with the 10w 40 from now on.

Sorry should of explained it better. The pads and discs were changed about 500 miles ago and have bedded in nicely, the brakes are very good, it just bothers me that there is some travel before they seem to start working (I have a Scorpio Cosworth and the brakes are on the second you move the pedal and are effective enough to stop on a sixpence). The Gal brakes will lock up but it seems to take much more effort and longer pedal travel. The brake lights and cruise are working so no worries there. The pedal doesn't travel to the floor nor does it feel spongy, my concerns are the travel and that the travel varies with how hot (or cold) the car is. If this is normal then I won't worry about it, but I don't want to be driving a car that is dangerous - not that I am worried about myself, it's whoever I cause to be in an accident if I am negligent.

Charming Rubbish, if exposed to UV radiation (eg sunlight) silicone sealer degrades rapidly, that coupled with the heat from the engine compartment will kill it very effectively. Silicone sealer should not be used to seal any kind of roof, the proper stuff for the job is outdoor frame sealant, which STILL degrades over time but will last a lot longer and is unaffected by UV. Proper mastic seal on the other hand does NOT suffer from degradation over time and remains flexible to allow for movement in the joint. I suppose you could use silicone if you didn't want to keep the car and don't mind passing the problem onto the new owner. You still wouldn't be able to paint it though.

I changed the Gals brake fluid this weekend, emptied the master cylinder, refilled with new fluid and power bled from each wheel (the type that pushes brake fluid through), the difference in pedal height is amazing, the pedal has come right up now and by pushing it down about an inch the wheels lock up solid, before I had to push the pedal about 3 inches before it started to bite. The old fluid did look clean, but there is no way of knowing if it was contaminated. After driving about 20 miles the pedal doesn't start to bite until about 2 inches down, I have replaced all seals, discs and pads, and changed the fluid - does this amount of travel seem usual? The car stops fine and when it goes cold again the pedal height comes back - I have had the car tested and it would pass an MOT but I am a little concerned about the extra travel when driving, should I accept it and not worry about it, or can someone see something I have missed? P.S. rear adjusters are also working OK and she has had new calipers both sides rear.

You can buy proper brush on mastic seam sealer from any good motor factor, silicone sealer is not good because the heat and exposure to the elements will make it inefective (also you can't paint over silicone sealer!). If the water is coming in down the bonnet handle, can I suggest you try taping over the sunroof edges with masking tape, is it could be leaking from here because the drain tube goes down the drivers door pillar and can rub through on the wiring / metal there. Put a bucket of water over the roof before taping to check, then tape and do the same again.

Yes get the remot checked, is it the infra red type or the radio type? If it's IR chances are the IR LED has died, cheap and easy fix.

I tried 5w 40 in mine and it didn't like it, so I switched back to 10w 40 and it's much happier, it was noisey with the 5 40 and much queiter with the 10 40.