Vanbursta

First thing to check is the com port your software is using, the USB lead acts as an extra com port when it is installed it can be any of comm addresses from 1 to 4. Secondly DO NOT download the USB version of the software from Ross-Tech, I know it sounds weird but it will NOT work with a non Ross Tech interface, you need the normal version. Can you repost being a bit more specific about your setup (what version of the software etc and serial ports etc).

Just a quick post to wish everyone a very happy Christmas and all the best for the new year. Have a good 'un everybody!

There are 2 bolts (at least) that have to be removed, one is accessable after removing the air intake housing and the other after removing the alarm horn. And yes you need to remove the wiper assembly to gain access.

Probably the load pressure valve, are you using any brake fluid or is there a problem with your brakes?

My timing chain rattles like this and has done ever since I bought the car, when I first got it I replaced the tensioner and the improvement was significant, however as it had obviuosly been run with the adjuster faulty, there was still some rattle. I don't worry about it anymore I just drive the car and eventually I will get round to replacing the chains / tensioners, as it's a fairly major job I am waiting until I really have to do it. Sepulchrave is right though, you should never use additives - very bad for a modern engine.

Yes but there is nothing matching either of the fault codes that have come up. Stuck now as I don't know what to do next!

Can anyone help me decifer the following fault codes please? (ans incidentaly is this scanning all the avaialble control units - it doesn't seem to be scanning the central locking ECU for example, is there a way to get it to do everything by default?) Thanks all VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 021 906 256 P Component: MOTRONIC M3.8.1 AT V03 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00020 2 Faults Found: 01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338) 20-10 - Malfunction in Basic Setting - Intermittent 00533 - Idle Speed Regulation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded Readiness: 0110 0101 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 02: Auto Trans Controller: 099 927 733 E Component: AG4 Getriebe 099 2920 Coding: 00000 Shop #: WSC 00000 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Controller: 7M0 907 379 A Component: ABS/EDS ITTAE 04 GI V00 Coding: 02802 Shop #: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) 16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Controller: 7M0 907 040 S Component: CLIMATRONIC MPV V101 Coding: 00012 Shop #: WSC 00020 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 15: Airbags Controller: 6N0 909 603 K Component: AIRBAG VW2 V00 Coding: 00075 Shop #: WSC 00020 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments Controller: V96 VW1 084 9V9 Component: 6-AA instrument 064g Coding: 00116 Shop #: WSC 00021 No fault code found. End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm fairly certain the MAF not being connected will be stored as a fault code, until it's reset by someone (either a professional garage or with Vag-Com), the light will stay on.

Funny? as in what type of smell, rotten eggs by any chance?

Interesting to know what it is, I have the same model and the same problem, I have changed the thermostat housing and the overflow bottle and the heater matrix, but it still uses about half a pint every 100 miles or so, I have also changed the rad cap and checked for leaks, can't find anything! - no it is not the head gasket.

15 - 17 mpg round town and 25 -27 mpg on a run, but mines a V6 2.8, I guess if you want luxury motoring then you have to pay for it!

Don't forget to modify it to stop the water ingress - or you could just buy the new pattern frame from Fords at about a tenner!

Not sure about the MK2, but on the MK1 the seatbelt is mounted on the seat.

If you want it to be more efficient, you need to have the reciever dryer replaced as well, it costs about

Yes it drove fine, IIRC I also had to change timing gear and manifolds etc as well.

You could well be onto something with the molecular structure, most people don't realise that aircon gas needs to be topped up every couple of years, mainly due to the fact that refrigerant gas has smaller molecules than the rubber in the circuit, therefore some gas escapes to atmosphere over an extended period. I also know if you convert from R12 to R134a that you need to change seals in the compressor, expansion valve and o rings throughout.

I can confirm that the blocks are the same, they used the same in the later Scorpios (Frog eyed ones not Granada ones) and I have used a 2 litre block with a 2.3 head, had to have it remapped and a thick head gasket but otherwise was straight forward.

If you use climate control set to auto it will always put some air to the screen, if you manually select heat to your feet you will still get some to the screen although not as much, if you try recirculating air does the smell stop? It can only leak exhaust fumes in the front of the cabin if there is a leak in the exhaust system somewhere, or there is a problem with the pipes that connect the EGR valve, best to just do a quick visual check to look for any obvious leaks, as exhaust fumes are poisonous and can make you very sleepy, very dangerous on a long journey. As for the speedo, it's electronic. A quick test would be to remove the speedo unit and gently tip it to the left side, the needles should rise and fall back smoothly as you tip back to horizontal, if they do it could be the VSS (speed sensor) located on the gearbox giving a sporadic reading, or a problem with the cabling in between, (if the car is an auto it could also be the TCM - transmission control module),if the needles stick it's almost certainly the speedo unit, if you search for a second hand one make sure it comes from an identical spec car or it won't work properly, you will have to take it to Fords to have the correct mileage set and to reprogram it to your car in all likeleyhood. As you are also having gearbox problems I would suggest the fault with the speedo could be linked, the speedo and the TCM take a common signal from the VSS unit. I would check the relevant connectors are on tightly first and then start looking into more serious problems.

This is easy to do, remove the centre panel (radio, climate control / heater controls and cubby box), the amp sits underneath all this and can be removed by undoing the 2 screws, once out you are left with a connector on the left hand side which used to go to the radio, and another connector on the right hand side that goes to the speakers, you will need to cut the speaker wires here and connect them to the back of your new unit. To identify which colour goes to which speaker use a 1.5 volt battery, put one of the connectors on the negative end of the speaker wires and briefly touch each of the other speaker wires to the positive in turn, when you find the right pair you will hear a click from the relevant speaker, mark the wires and then move onto the next pair, until you have found out which wires go to which speakers. Don't leave the cable connected too long as you can burn the speaker coil out, I do mean briefly touch the positive connection. Make sure you get the speaker wires beacause IIRC there is also a set of cables that carry current to the amp that also plug into the right hand side. You need to tape and isolate these cables before you reassemble.

Hi Chromedome, I get parts from TC harrison, but there is no way I would let them anywhere near my car, I use a local garage called SKS autos, professional garage and the people are good at the job, they will also let you haggle a bit over prices. I can highly recommend them. Sills were bent when I bought the car, quickly remedied with a dolly and hammer when I got the chance and no problems since.

The bore and stroke are different on a 2.3, technically however the blocks are identical and the cam gearing is the same, so it should be possible. However it would probably run very rough as the ecu would need custom mapping to compensate.

Which of course, he bought from the original company that made it, your honour.

Whilst browsing the forum earlier, I came across a post left by someone who was commenting that they had to repair lots of things on their Galaxy, got me thinking how many parts I have had to replace and I wondered if anyone can beat this:- PS Doesn't include

Actually Ford use a system called Microcat and VW use Ekta, for my money I prefer Microcat, it's easier to use and covers the entire range. Both type of parts reference are available from well known auction sites, although strictly speaking it would of course be illegal to use either if they had not been purchased from the original company that made them.

Errmm my Gal doesn't have a TDI badge, but my daughter has 112 red horses in her farmyard playset! :blink: :) :D :)